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Discussion Starter #1
I installed my new GT17 turbo on Saturday. The old one was blowing oil so I ordered one off of Ebay. The first thing that I noticed was that it hasn;t shot out a wad of blue smoke at startup since I replaced the turbo. I was also surprised at how much faster this new one spools up. I didn't know that my old one was that bad until I replaced it. I also hear the turbo "whistling" now and never have been able to on this car before.

I also ordered a TB from BBA and installed it today. It has been flaky for a few mos and was gradually getting worse. I waited until I got the turbo swapped out so that the new TB wouldn't get oil soaked like the old one.

Anyway, it was easy and well worth the $500 total investment. I highly recommend it.
 

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Frank,

Did you remove the whole manifold to do the swap or just the turbo? I'm asking because I have the same job ahead of me (with a td04) and I'm trying to plan ahead.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Bigsky said:
Frank,

Did you remove the whole manifold to do the swap or just the turbo? I'm asking because I have the same job ahead of me (with a td04) and I'm trying to plan ahead.

Mike
I removed the manifold and the PS pump. It took about 1.5hrs to get everything out. The manifold removal is a must in my opinion. It only took about 5 mins to pull and made the job much easier. If you are using the hard lines, I recommend that you loosen both ends and then reattach them loosly to the turbo before mounting it to anything. The hard lines are difficult to get started if they aren't perfectly line up at the right angle. Then, leave them loose until everything is bolted up.
 

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I'm assuming you didn't have the misfortune of breaking an exhaust manifold stud? I spoke to Jak Stoll about removing my turbo and he said to be prepared for it, there is a good chance that one will break.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Bigsky said:
I'm assuming you didn't have the misfortune of breaking an exhaust manifold stud? I spoke to Jak Stoll about removing my turbo and he said to be prepared for it, there is a good chance that one will break.
Nope, I sprayed them with PB Blaster about an hour before I started. They came off with very little force.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Since it looks like you are about to do one, I'll give you the quick version of my install. Your's will be a tad more complicated since you have different coolant / oil lines to worry about with the TD04 upgrade.

  • Remove PCV line from inlet tube
  • Remove Serpentine belt
  • Remove 2 top bolts on PS pump and loosen bottom bolt 3/4 way (allows access to the furthest manifold nut)
  • Remove BCV and all tubing connected to turbo
  • Remove heat shield
  • Remove rubber hangers on exaust pipe (front side)
  • Remove downpipe nuts and tie it off to the right to get it out of the way. I used a tie wrap to a hole on the tranny.
  • Remove exaust manifold-to-turbo flange nuts
  • Remove coolant lines and oil feed line from turbo. Loosen other end so that the lines can move around as needed
  • Remove exaust manifold nuts
  • Remove exaust manifold
  • Loosen the hose clamp on the turbo outlet (large hose that leads to IC)
  • Loosen the hose clamps on the oil drain (small hose that feeds back to oil sump)
  • Lift turbo out (turbo shaped thing :D )
That whole process should take 1-1.5 hrs if you have already soaked everything down with PB blaster prior to beginning.

Reverse the process to install. The only caveat being to make sure you pour oil into the oil inlet before putting the oil line back on.

Here are a few tips for reassembly:

  • Leave everything loose (exaust manifold bolts, oil lines, coolant lines, downpipe, etc...) until everything is in place and back together. Then tighten it all down. It will be much easier.
  • Do not over tighten the exaust manifold nuts. The studs will break.
  • Use antisieze on every nut/bolt that you use
  • Use copper gasket maker on the downpipe flange to get a good seal. The rubber will burn off but the copper will make a good seal.
  • Pour oil into oil inlet before putting oil drain hose back on and verify that it slowly flows through.
  • Make sure all water lines and oil lines are "started" before tightening up any bolts. If they arent, you will have a bear of a time getting them lined up perfect.
  • Make sure you don't drop any of the copper washers when putting the lines back on.
Let me know if I can be of further assistance.
 

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Thanks for the input Frank, this looks like a total PITA! I spoke to a shop about having it done and they said $500 for labor. It sounded high, but after reading your instructions maybe not. In any case I'm going to give it a shot and see if I can pull it off.

Thanks again
 

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I have just replaced my Turbo unit on my 900SE 1997 and did not have to remove any of the P/S or the manifold. It may just be i had good luck with the studs and bolts. I agree not to tighten every thing up until the oil and water lines are started they are a real pain. My biggest problem was ( well 2 really) the oil pipe for some reason refused to seal it took about three new washers before i got it to stop dripping. The other thing was my own fault ,i did not mark all the casings when i took them apart. Spent 1hr putting it all on come to put the oil return pipe back it had a kink in it, yet all the other pipes went on OK. Had to take it of again take the big circlip out and just turn the housing, So mark everything is my advice. good luck bash
 
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