SaabCentral Forums banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, I am looking at purchasing a 1992 Saab 900 SE with a turbo and a convertible. The problem is the gearbox jumps out of first gear unless you hold it there. The lady who is selling the car said this is how it has been for the last 5 years. It has 125,000 miles on the car. Is this a major concern, or is it something I could live with? Again, this is my first time thinking about buying a Saab. Any other buying advice would be appreciated. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,156 Posts
Sadly the gearbox is the weakest point on a Saab 900. Jumping out of gear is a sign of worn components and it will only get worse.

If the car is in otherwise good condition use the problem as a bargaining tool and knock the price down - A LOT.

There are people on this site who know an awful lot more about the 'boxes than me and should be able to steer you towards getting a second han replacement fitted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
philjohnhb said:
Sadly the gearbox is the weakest point on a Saab 900. Jumping out of gear is a sign of worn components and it will only get worse.

If the car is in otherwise good condition use the problem as a bargaining tool and knock the price down - A LOT.

There are people on this site who know an awful lot more about the 'boxes than me and should be able to steer you towards getting a second han replacement fitted.
Thanks for the reply Philip. They are selling the Saab for 2,000. How much would you recomend to knock off the selling price for the Gearbox? I read somewhere else on the forum that maybe a nylon bushing at the end of the stick could cause this? Is this correct? What is the cost and how hard would it be to replace the gearbox bymyself? I am experinced with working on vehicles and building engines.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,470 Posts
if the car isnt fitted with air conditioning, you can see the rubber bush down the back of the engine... its a large rubber block, in a metal fame, that connects the gear stil mechanism to the gearbox selector rod.... if it is this, its easy to replace and cheap to buy

G
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Another question I have is about the car being parked. I have heard that it is worse for cars to not be driven than it is for them to have lots of miles. The car was parked 6 months out of the year for the last 5 years. Would this warant looking at other cars instead of this one?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
491 Posts
the old family 4 door used to do this. It was actually a 93 so not old at all, and I believe it was because of my brother and his..umm..driving techniques. If you can't hold it in with your hand, then peel out!!! This was a while ago, and now my knowledge says that I should have prevented him from doing this, but hey. It worked. rubber bushing seems probable because it happened one day from teaching a friend to drive (alot of gear shoving etc). Or you could always start in second, but be used to replacing cltches and working on engines! Good luck, and reduce the price!!!!

Sorry for the lack of actual help I provided in this post.

-Alex
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks, So it seems the consensus is the car is still a good deal? Just reduce the price and fix the rubber bushing. SOunds good. Anyone else have experince with the trany popping out of first?


I don't know about the c900 or the se 900. That is just what the lady who is selling it said it was. All I know is that it is a 92 turbo convertible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
193 Posts
allessence said:
Sorry, I don't mean to be rude, but:lol:

1992 Saab 900 SE

Was the SE an actual C900?

From my understanding it was the Second Edition SAAB 900? Am I missing something here?
Nope, mine's an SE. In the UK, at least, they were sold in something like 91-93 as high spec editions - mine has electric everything, air con and was an LPT...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
528 Posts
SAABTERBO said:
Thanks, So it seems the consensus is the car is still a good deal? Just reduce the price and fix the rubber bushing. SOunds good. Anyone else have experince with the trany popping out of first?


I don't know about the c900 or the se 900. That is just what the lady who is selling it said it was. All I know is that it is a 92 turbo convertible.
So, firstly I'm sorry for the SE comment. Didn't know they made early C900SE's. Here the SE's are Second edition. Next generation 900's that really only share the same engine and SAAB 900 moniker. Everything else is different for the most part.

If it's popping out of first it can be a bad engine mount combined with a sticky shifter. (give it gas it moves the engine up and hence adds different pressure to the shift and out of gear it comes, usually more in 2nd gear)

Or bad tranny. The gear pack is moving back and forth to much (shims under 1st gear are compressed/over heated) and rocking against the shift fork pulling it out of gear.

You can check this if familar by pulling the side cover and inserting a screw driver and pushing the gear pack forwards then backwards. You'll be able to see the excess play. And can actually put it in 1st gear and move the pack and see it come out of gear.

Usually it's reverse that comes out on backing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
allessence said:
So, firstly I'm sorry for the SE comment. Didn't know they made early C900SE's. Here the SE's are Second edition. Next generation 900's that really only share the same engine and SAAB 900 moniker. Everything else is different for the most part.

If it's popping out of first it can be a bad engine mount combined with a sticky shifter. (give it gas it moves the engine up and hence adds different pressure to the shift and out of gear it comes, usually more in 2nd gear)

Or bad tranny. The gear pack is moving back and forth to much (shims under 1st gear are compressed/over heated) and rocking against the shift fork pulling it out of gear.

You can check this if familar by pulling the side cover and inserting a screw driver and pushing the gear pack forwards then backwards. You'll be able to see the excess play. And can actually put it in 1st gear and move the pack and see it come out of gear.

Usually it's reverse that comes out on backing.

No offense taken. Thanks for the appology. I really don't know these cars to well. Would $2,000 dollars be reasonable for the convertible with 125,000 miles?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,156 Posts
SAABTERBO said:
No offense taken. Thanks for the appology. I really don't know these cars to well. Would $2,000 dollars be reasonable for the convertible with 125,000 miles?
The miles are not that high, these cars go on forever. 2k is not a lot of money for a convertible but you should knock 1 or 200 off for the gear selection problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
304 Posts
SAABTERBO said:
No offense taken. Thanks for the appology. I really don't know these cars to well. Would $2,000 dollars be reasonable for the convertible with 125,000 miles?
The "verts" are highly sought after, particularly if in nice condition. If interior, body/paint, and top is somewhere north of "damn good" condition it's more than fair deal.

In last year or so I've seen very nice verts fetch $7-12k here... they don't get that price overnight, but plenty of folks w/$$ to spend who've had 'em before will fork up that kind of money for a sweet one.

As far as tranny goes, my approach is to keep a couple extras in the garage. Our U-PULL yard offers 'em for $80, and I can pull one in a Saturday morning. As others have said, they can be a weak spot... but they also can go forever. One of nice things about 'em (and most of critical c900 assemblies) is they give plenty of warning before failure.

Rebuilding trannys one of few things I don't/won't/can't do myself. When I priced the job out about a yr ago, quotes were +/- $500 and up.

If you search the archives here, there's plenty of good discussions on rebuild procedure/parts... what's needed and what's not.

FWIW, there's an Saab indy shop up your way that's one of best anywhere. They could give you a reliable evaluation of your tranny (and entire car for that matter) for a reasonable price.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
jdmckay said:
The "verts" are highly sought after, particularly if in nice condition. If interior, body/paint, and top is somewhere north of "damn good" condition it's more than fair deal.

In last year or so I've seen very nice verts fetch $7-12k here... they don't get that price overnight, but plenty of folks w/$$ to spend who've had 'em before will fork up that kind of money for a sweet one.

As far as tranny goes, my approach is to keep a couple extras in the garage. Our U-PULL yard offers 'em for $80, and I can pull one in a Saturday morning. As others have said, they can be a weak spot... but they also can go forever. One of nice things about 'em (and most of critical c900 assemblies) is they give plenty of warning before failure.

Rebuilding trannys one of few things I don't/won't/can't do myself. When I priced the job out about a yr ago, quotes were +/- $500 and up.

If you search the archives here, there's plenty of good discussions on rebuild procedure/parts... what's needed and what's not.

FWIW, there's an Saab indy shop up your way that's one of best anywhere. They could give you a reliable evaluation of your tranny (and entire car for that matter) for a reasonable price.

Thanks for the info. I have worked on mostly Toyota Trucks. I have repalced engines before. Is it very dificult to replace a transmision? Also, Besides the transmision, is thre any trouble spots to look out for on the engine? Do they need timing belts replaced every so often? How much is it for a Timing belt job? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,464 Posts
SAABTERBO said:
Thanks for the info. I have worked on mostly Toyota Trucks. I have repalced engines before. Is it very dificult to replace a transmision? Also, Besides the transmision, is thre any trouble spots to look out for on the engine? Do they need timing belts replaced every so often? How much is it for a Timing belt job? Thanks.
The easiest way to replace the transmission is to yank the engine+trans as one unit then unbolt old trans, bolt new on, then replace the engine+trans unit. It's pretty straightforward.

These cars have timing chains not belts, so they go quite a ways. I've heard of them going 150,000+ miles, but I think the actual Saab recommended interval for changing them was something like 70,000.

You can pull the tensioner and see how worn it is by how many clicks the tensioner is extended. Other than that, if it isn't making noise, don't worry about it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,464 Posts
allessence said:
So, firstly I'm sorry for the SE comment. Didn't know they made early C900SE's. Here the SE's are Second edition. Next generation 900's that really only share the same engine and SAAB 900 moniker. Everything else is different for the most part.
I have a 1991 900T SE convertible and I'm "here". :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
304 Posts
SAABTERBO said:
Is it very dificult to replace a transmision?
IMO what Matt said. Again, you may want to search archives and see what others have done.

I've been @ these c900 thingies for about 2 yrs... takes me just under 3 hrs to remove a tranny @ the junk yard per/Matt's procedure.

Also, Besides the transmision, is thre any trouble spots to look out for on the engine?
Not so much. :cheesy: These are extremely robust, long wearing engines. Well taken care of, they'll go 4/5/6 100k miles w/normal maintenace. Vacum lines & fittings, fuel/ignition parts may go somewhere along the line, but most everything in there is high quality BOSCH and holds up well.

At 125k miles, our local SAAB indy shop (very, very good) would say your car is "just getting started"!


Do they need timing belts replaced every so often?
Again, what Matt said. Timing chains (like other SAAB parts) generally fail gradually (eg: not sudden): they'll clang and snort a bit.

How much is it for a Timing belt job? Thanks.
I did mine myself, so I don't know.

I'd be curious to see photos of this car if you have 'em.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,078 Posts
Caveat - low price alert ....

The engines and gearboxes are, as mentioned above, very robust. What probably kills more Saabs than anything else is rust. You have to give the car a very close examination before you buy it - the best thing is to find a friendly garage where you can put the car up on a lift.

Once it's in the air you want to poke and prod (nobody should object to your trying to shove an awl through the metal on the underside of a car) and search for rust - pay particular attention to the area where the lower control arms attach to the chassis at the front - there's a tunnel through which the drive shafts pass - it accumulated dirt - which keeps the metal damp - and promotes rust. If that section is rusted it's very possible to save the car, but it's going to cost you a couple hundred bucks per side (assuming you can find a good Saab shop that has a talented welder / fabricator) - less if you can weld and fab yourself - but it's important from a safety perspective that rust in those areas be repaired before you tootle down the highway - not fixing it is inviting the lower control arm breaking free at an inopportune moment - which isn't a good thing. Again, it's not a bad or expensive fix - but it's something to consider when negotiating price.

Look carefully for floor board replacement - if it's well done then no big deal - but plywood, thin steel or aluminum, road signs (don't laugh, I've seen it) pop-riveted in or sheet metal screwed in are a sign of a real bodge - if you see anything like that just walk away. If the floors are shot chances are the rest of the body is full of bondo.

Use a plastic refrig. magnet - try to stick it onto the fender lips - try to stick it to the lower quarter panels - try to stick it to the lower doors - if it doesn't stick then someone has "repaired" rust with bondo - if they didn't do a really great and thorough job it's gonna bubble through again in a year or two.

Test the operation of the top - make sure the hydraulics work correctly - look for obvious hydraulic leaks around the cylinders.

Why am I saying all this? The price seems rather low - and that tends to run a red flag up the pole for me. Why? When I was 16 I bought a Porsche 356 for a song - really cheap (even for 1975) - and a speedster at that (although it didn't have a top at the time). Turns out there was about 10% of the original sheet metal on that car - it looked fantastic - nice fresh red paint - polished alloy wheels - interior was worn but OK. It broke in half on me one night going around a turn - needless to say I was not a happy camper (although the engine went into a '64 bug which was big time fun!). I'd hate to see something like that happen to anyone else.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
SteveTheFolkie said:
Why am I saying all this? The price seems rather low - and that tends to run a red flag up the pole for me. Why? When I was 16 I bought a Porsche 356 for a song - really cheap (even for 1975) - and a speedster at that (although it didn't have a top at the time). Turns out there was about 10% of the original sheet metal on that car - it looked fantastic - nice fresh red paint - polished alloy wheels - interior was worn but OK. It broke in half on me one night going around a turn - needless to say I was not a happy camper (although the engine went into a '64 bug which was big time fun!). I'd hate to see something like that happen to anyone else.
I had that experience with a VW bug. It wasn't in pristine condition, but I wanted it... badly... I bought it thinking a little bodywork would be in order. I had no idea at the time how much bodywork cost. I drove it for a while until it was really not safe to drive anymore, then I sold it to a guy who wanted the engine (which was almost brand new -- I had replaced it when the old one blew).

Just for comparison's sake, the guy I brought my car to this morning had two Saab convertibles on his lot, both 900s. I think they were both SEs if I remember seeing them correctly. One had 130K on it, the other had 90K on it. The 130K one was a stick, woman they were selling it for was asking $4900 and it was in pretty decent shape except for paint (which was looking a little worn). Interior was pretty nice. Tires were almost bald. Mechanic said it was a good running car. Top was almost perfect. The lower mileage was an automatic, interior was in rough shape, top was good, another good running car. They were looking to get around $6K for that one.

$2K sounds like a steal in comparison. I'd go over it with a fine-toothed comb. If it's $2K because of the transmission issue, that's a decent discount already.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top