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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
New spark plugs, now CEL (P0103, o2 sensor). From the anti-seize?? UPDATED: DI DIED!

...after changing my plug 2 weeks ago I got a CEL. I reset it and it wad gone for 2 weeks, and now its back. Its P0130, 02 sensor.

I used some permatex anti-seize on the plug threads (but just a little and not near the electrode). Was doing some reading now and it seems anti-seize could mess with stuff? If so, it likely just messed w. the 02 sensor a little and it should be fine, or could it actually have done something?

Thanks guys!
 

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Are you sure that you didn't bump something when you were pulling the DI cassette? I know I put anti seize on mine, and even got a little sloppy and had no problems.
 

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Antiseize on spark plug threads would have no effect on the O2 sensor. You could check the connectors that the O2 sensors plug into (on the driver side and behind the engine under the black plastic cover), unscrew the front sensor, clean the threads with a wire brush and put it back in, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Now my DI Died today. this is the 3rd DI now, and the car has only 63k miles.

COuld the cel have been from that? (Even tho it was code P0130?)

and I used the correct plugs, gap, etc etc, I couldnt have caused it, right?


This is getting ridiculous.
 

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I was thinking about the DI when I first posted, but figured that would be premature. But yes, strange CEL's are a sign of a failing DI Cassette. I cannot beleive you went through so many though.

Do you put dielectric grease on the cassette boots?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
DougR said:
I was thinking about the DI when I first posted, but figured that would be premature. But yes, strange CEL's are a sign of a failing DI Cassette. I cannot beleive you went through so many though.

Do you put dielectric grease on the cassette boots?
Yep, I made a point to put dielectric grease on the boots when I did the plugs. The new DI was pre-greased, so I put that on the car as-is.

I'm really getting frustrated.
 

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SAABturboDRIVR said:
Now my DI Died today. this is the 3rd DI now, and the car has only 63k miles.

Could the cel have been from that? (Even tho it was code P0130?)

and I used the correct plugs, gap, etc etc, I couldnt have caused it, right?

This is getting ridiculous.
Does the '99 still have the red DI cassette, or the black one? I have seen posts about the black DI's failing less than 20k after replacement before. Not sure I have seen the same about the older red ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
PMI said:
Does the '99 still have the red DI cassette, or the black one? I have seen posts about the black DI's failing less than 20k after replacement before. Not sure I have seen the same about the older red ones.
I have the red DI, indentical to what's on your '96.
 

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SAABturboDRIVR said:
I have the red DI, indentical to what's on your '96.
I thought that might be the case. I don't suppose the part is still under warranty.

Not encouraging, because at almost 110k miles, mine is on borrowed time, and I have to remove it again soon. I have had it off about three times in the last few months already, including switching from the 6-series to the 7-series NGK plug, and pulling the valve cover twice. Did the old plugs look like they were excessively fouled (dirty), like they might be if the O2 sensor was starting to go out and the engine was running rich? (I know that is a long-shot, but all I can think of)

Out of curiosity, which ones did you put in when you replaced them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
PMI said:
I thought that might be the case. I don't suppose the part is still under warranty.

Not encouraging, because at almost 110k miles, mine is on borrowed time, and I have to remove it again soon. I have had it off about three times in the last few months already, including switching from the 6-series to the 7-series NGK plug, and pulling the valve cover twice. Did the old plugs look like they were excessively fouled (dirty), like they might be if the O2 sensor was starting to go out and the engine was running rich? (I know that is a long-shot, but all I can think of)

Out of curiosity, which ones did you put in when you replaced them?
I had put in NGK 7 series plugs to see if it would help my low boost issue (car had NGK 6 series platinums my mechanic put in). Then I got a CEL. Then I put the 6's back in and got CEL again, and today the DI finally died.

I am getting a lot of soot on my tailpipe, more than normal.
 

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I am getting a lot of soot on my tailpipe, more than normal.
That usually means the engine is running rich, or possibly burning more oil than normal. I would check the PCV valve and the two hoses it is attached to, and make sure it is functionning as a one way check valve, and the hoses are not cracked or plugged. The plastic nipple at the valve cover needs some care, the small port snaps off very easily.

The 7-series plug did not change my boost, but they are supposed to be better at higher speeds. If you are have low boost and the engine is running rich, it amy mean theat the ecu is backing off because something is wrong, like a boost or vacuum leak etc. You might try a new post with the entire list of symptoms in the order you noticed them... low boost, CEL code, DIC, soot etc.

Is there a danger in removing the DI Cassette a lot?
I wish I knew. I think it must be designed to be pretty rugged to sit and function on top of the engine for 9 years and 110k miles, but at the very least, I try not to remove it hot because of the oil-filled coils.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
PMI said:
That usually means the engine is running rich, or possibly burning more oil than normal. I would check the PCV valve and the two hoses it is attached to, and make sure it is functionning as a one way check valve, and the hoses are not cracked or plugged. The plastic nipple at the valve cover needs some care, the small port snaps off very easily.

The 7-series plug did not change my boost, but they are supposed to be better at higher speeds. If you are have low boost and the engine is running rich, it amy mean theat the ecu is backing off because something is wrong, like a boost or vacuum leak etc. You might try a new post with the entire list of symptoms in the order you noticed them... low boost, CEL code, DIC, soot etc.

I wish I knew. I think it must be designed to be pretty rugged to sit and function on top of the engine for 9 years and 110k miles, but at the very least, I try not to remove it hot because of the oil-filled coils.


Regarding my low boost...I disconnected the W hose to the BPC, and got great boost, right up to fuel cut. Does this mean the culprit is the BPC valve, or could it still be issues like what you mentioned?
 

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SAABturboDRIVR said:
Regarding my low boost...I disconnected the W hose to the BPC, and got great boost, right up to fuel cut. Does this mean the culprit is the BPC valve, or could it still be issues like what you mentioned?
Someone else may be able to diagnose that better, however:

Normal operation: As the throttle opens during hard acceleration, the ecu pulses the solenoid valve in the BPC, and diverts some of the air from the "C" hse into the "R" hose and back to the intake. The wastegate opens at higher compressor pressure, and you get some level of boost between base and full boost. If the ecu detects a problem (or low octane fuel for example) it may back the boost off. For example, too much oil going from the PCV system into the intake has a similar effect as low octane fuel.

ECU disconnected: With the BPC connected and ecu out of the picture (solenoid connector un-plugged), all air from "C" goes to "W" and you only get base boost, like a low-pressure turbo (LPT). The turbo should boost about half into the yellow. This has the same effect as connecting C to W (compressor to waste gate).

W-hose disconnected: Disconnecting the "W" hose disables all control of how much boost you get, and reaching fuel cut will only tell you there is no really bad boost leak or turbo bypass valve problem. That is about it.
 
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