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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On Saturday when I heard metal grinding against metal I decided it was time to change the front rotors and pads on my 2003 9.3. I have 53,000 miles on the car. I have changed the pads on a Pathfinder and a CRV before so I knew I could do this.



It would have been easier to do it all on one day but since Saab didn't have the rotors in stock and I didn't like the sound of metal against metal, I decided to do it over two days. I changed the pads on Monday and the rotors on Wednesday.



Total time to do it was about 2 1/4 hours. The pads took about 1.5 hours and the rotors took 45 minutes. The left side took close to an hour just trying to figure out how to get the caliper off and fighting with the inner pad to snap it into the piston. The right side took a lot less time because I knew the tricks by then.



The mechanic at the dealer loaned my his Torx socket to remove the caliper which was pretty cool of him. I am thinking of getting him a gift certificate to a restaurant as a thanks for the loan and the tips on how to do it. He has also been the poor guy to work on my POS Saab and said that they have done more to my car than any other 9.3 they have had in.



I bought the pads at Advance Auto for $48. The rotors came from the dealer for $225. I am not sure how much the dealer would have charged but I know the pads would have been close to twice the price and I am sure the labor would have been about $200.

After doing it, I wish I had tried to have the rotors turned although Saab says you can't do it. I think that when it is time to do the rear brakes, I will have them turned and see how it goes.
 

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Contrary to what the dealers say, you can machine the rotors. As long as you have 22mm of the rotor it's good, however you'll probably find yourself replacing the rotor before the next set of pads, since they will soon wear to below that limit. It may be possible to get another seaon of the rotors, but that's about it.

You must be in very good terms with the mechanic because most protect their tools like a guard dog.
 

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what were some of the tricks you had to do to get the pads and rotors off..im going to be doing this tonight and tomorrow..but not replacing the rotors just cutting them down...
 

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rotate said:
You must be in very good terms with the mechanic because most protect their tools like a guard dog.
My brother's a mechanic, they only lend you the tools they have another of thats in better condition. Or a tool they borrowed from a fellow mechanic and forgot to return and hope you don't return it so they don't see it in their tool chest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
JAR said:
My brother's a mechanic, they only lend you the tools they have another of thats in better condition. Or a tool they borrowed from a fellow mechanic and forgot to return and hope you don't return it so they don't see it in their tool chest.
Actually, he knows that since it has the Launch Package, the car will be back in the shop with more problems sooner or later (probably sooner) so he will get his tool back then or I won't get my problem fixed.

He told me to put some anti seize on the back of the pads to keep vibrations down. He had a car on the lift at the time so he showed me exactly which bolts to remove so I didn't have to even think about it. He loaned me his bottle of treadlock so I could apply it before putting the bolts back in. He said that they would be very hard to get out so to have a breaker bar ready and to put them back in just as tight. The tips were all common sense things but it was good to hear them from the mechanic. I found the socket on the Snap-On website for about $15 so I will probably order one for myself just so I have it.

From the other rotor/pad post

"Undo two torx bolts that hold the caliper(T50 from memory"
On mine the bolts to get the part of the caliper off to just change the pads was a 7mm allen. The bolts to remove the entire caliper in order to change the rotors was an E20 female Torx socket.
 

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mtpisgah said:
From the other rotor/pad post

"Undo two torx bolts that hold the caliper(T50 from memory"
On mine the bolts to get the part of the caliper off to just change the pads was a 7mm allen. The bolts to remove the entire caliper in order to change the rotors was an E20 female Torx socket.
Just checked. the size is actually T45 and they are the ones needed just for pad renewal. I am confused? the tool I used was a T45 it fitted into the head of the bolt so the bolt head is female, right?
The calipers on my car are ATE. Perhaps they are using different suppliers. Wish mine had been allen key type. Had to by the torx ones special.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Dave N said:
Just checked. the size is actually T45 and they are the ones needed just for pad renewal. I am confused? the tool I used was a T45 it fitted into the head of the bolt so the bolt head is female, right?
The calipers on my car are ATE. Perhaps they are using different suppliers. Wish mine had been allen key type. Had to by the torx ones special.
Maybe they changed it between model years or it is a US/UK thing.
 
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