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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've attached a pdf document detailing a modification that I've developed to eliminate the computer from operating the top on NG900 convertibles. In the document, it makes reference to pictures #1-#6. #1-#3 are attached here, in order. #s4-#6 will be attached to the first reply.

This is the only way that I can see to include all of the needed information. Feel free to PM if questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Probably not, but the top was dead, and the dealership had NO interest in attempting to fix it. They told me it would be 'really expensive', and convinced me that they knew nothing about how it worked when I brought it in for a reprogram. I probably could have fixed it IF I had a techII, but those are REALLY (grand on up) pricey, so I elected to go this route.
 

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Over the summer the indy I work out fixed litterally dozens of NG900 tops. I'm not sure how it is around your parts, but we've fixed fully electric ASC tops, OG93 hydrualic tops, and C900 tops. Shame you couldn't find someone to help you...
 

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Nice job!

Question for you: For the people who keep asking "is there some way to operate the top manually"... it seems to me that it would be possible release the tonneau motor/gear from the mechanism (effectively the red handle move) "permanently", then wire up the switch for the rear latch motors.The you could manually operate the motors and just hit a switch to latch or unlatch the rear. You'd also need to manually operate the tonneau, or remove it like most other manual tops (not sure if removing it would eliminate the ability to latch it... I don't know much about the rear latches physical configuration). You could even use the existing up/down switch as the momentary contact for latching and un-latching (Might need a relay to accomplish the crossover).

I do see a difficulty with Holding the top down while you latch it, might be a job for two, but it's a minimal hardware solution for those that don't have a working tonneau or roof motors.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bob: its extremely difficult to maneuver the 4th and 5th bows manually, you are fighting the motors and the gearing. After doing that once, I was determined not to have to do that again. To have a truly "manual" system, you'd have to disconnect all 4 4th and 5th bow motors. That might affect the integrity of the top. Not that I'd know anything about it.

Then you'd still have to deal with the 5th bow lock (Flyhop's method would do it, and all MY method did was to expand that idea to all 4 functions), the tonneau cover itself (it would be relatively easy to disconnect it from the mechanism), and the tonneau cover locks (they lock automatically when the cover closes and pulls on two cables: I remember where someone on the forum was using vice grips for that purpose.).

All in all, I think my method is less trouble to set up and works easier. Its not for everybody, though: a certain amount of mechanical acumen is necessary to keep from crashing things. Not a problem for myself or my bride. YMMV.
 

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I am thinking of doing this to my 99 9-3 but I am worried the SID will interfere, my problem ow is my 5th bow will not unlock, me and my indy tried to pull and move lever with no luck, he said to try and hit it with a rubber mallet a few times. so for now its stuck.
 

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Reply to BobSaabit:
If someone wanted to latch and unlatch the fifth bow on a repeated basis, here are a couple of ideas.
I'd connect in near the motor. It is located on the underside of the tonneau(cover). If you lift the tonneau you you could see it but it is hiding behind a plastic 'shield'. The motor has two wires running from it to a connector, also under that plastic shield.
Are you old enough to know that houses used to be wired with electrical outlets that had only two openings for the plugs, and the plugs had only two prongs? Well, if you happen to find an old or old style lamp extension cord, you would have the source of a two wire connector. If you joined the ends, and cut the extension cord in half, and then wired one side of that to the motor and the other side to batt. and ground you would have a convenient connect/disconnect for the fifth bow latch. You would choose latch or unlatch just by reversing the plug. You could mark the plug with a dab or two of paint to give yourself a code for latch and unlatch. It takes only an instant to operate so you would have to be quick to disconnect. You could wire in a SPST momentary switch to get momentary connect.
 

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I am thinking of doing this to my 99 9-3 but I am worried the SID will interfere, my problem ow is my 5th bow will not unlock, me and my indy tried to pull and move lever with no luck, he said to try and hit it with a rubber mallet a few times. so for now its stuck.
What Lever are you talking about? The 99 MY doesn't have the dreaded red handle of doom, which in the 95-98 doesn't affect the fifth bow latch anyhow.
The 99 MY has the same fifth bow latch as the 95-98. It is located on the underside of the tonneau. It can be powered by the flyhop method. You can get this by a 'flyhop' search, but if you fail, post and someone will help.
rls120 post is specifically for the mechanical tops from 95-98(94-98 in UK)
 

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I am thinking of doing this to my 99 9-3 but I am worried the SID will interfere, my problem ow is my 5th bow will not unlock, me and my indy tried to pull and move lever with no luck, he said to try and hit it with a rubber mallet a few times. so for now its stuck.
If you mean a lever in the luggage compartment, i think that has to be pried somehow. If you can get access to an owner's manual it describes the process. But that is for the tonneau, it won't release the fifth bow latches.
 

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If you mean a lever in the luggage compartment, i think that has to be pried somehow. If you can get access to an owner's manual it describes the process. But that is for the tonneau, it won't release the fifth bow latches.
yes thats the part I meant...no owners manual just extras for my 9-5s
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
SRMoose: I'd definitely try the "Flyhop method" on your TC lock. There's a connector just below the carpeting that covers the TC mechanism (runs accross the top of the trunk). Drop that down, and you'll see the connector on the left side of the trunk. Disconnect it, and run a couple of alligator leads off of a battery charger (or you could run jumper cables off of the battery) to the two thicker wires going to the tonneau cover. If it doesn't unlock one way, reverse polarity and try it the other. Just takes a second. You can tell which way the lock is moving by looking at the little 'flappers' at the front of the tonneau cover. Up is unlocked, down is locked. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Bob: "ManuMatic". I love it;ol;
Been trying to come up with a reasonable name for my crazy system, and you did it for me. Thanks.

For "ManuLock", you'd still need to figure out a way to lock the tonneau cover down when the top is stored in the trunk. Its confusing, because there's two lock mechanisms involved.

Fifth bow lock, which runs on its own motor that is housed underneath the tonneau cover. Its essential when the top is up.

Tonneau cover lock, which is operated by two cables which are actuated by a lever off of the tonneau cover motor. Its only essential when the top is down.
 

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Bob: "ManuMatic". I love it;ol;
Been trying to come up with a reasonable name for my crazy system, and you did it for me. Thanks.

For "ManuLock", you'd still need to figure out a way to lock the tonneau cover down when the top is stored in the trunk. Its confusing, because there's two lock mechanisms involved.

Fifth bow lock, which runs on its own motor that is housed underneath the tonneau cover. Its essential when the top is up.

Tonneau cover lock, which is operated by two cables which are actuated by a lever off of the tonneau cover motor. Its only essential when the top is down.

Not so fast on that name buddy... I instructed my lawyer to copyright it before I posted it! (Actually, just kidding, go wild).

Thanks for the details. Makes more sense now... while I've had tonneau motors out multiple times and worked on them, I wondered what those two cables were for. Does it pull one for lock and then the other for unlock? Or is each one dedicated to a latch and it's "pull" to latch tonneau, "release" to open?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Bob: I promise if I make a dime on the name I'll share the royalties with you!:lol:

The second thing: two cables, one for the right and one for the left side of the tonneau cover. Pulled=locked. Released=unlocked.

One of mine is currently broken, so only the right side locks. The car really doesn't care much!
 

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I have converted mine to 'Manumatic' and it works well. However I still get the annoying 'check latches' bell, and the aircon doesn't work. I read in another thread that the aircon won't turn on unless the top is up. How can I bypass these latches and fool the computer to always think the top is up? What color wires, and where? Appreciate any expert help. Cheers, Merv.
 

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I have converted mine to 'Manumatic' and it works well. However I still get the annoying 'check latches' bell, and the aircon doesn't work. I read in another thread that the aircon won't turn on unless the top is up. How can I bypass these latches and fool the computer to always think the top is up? What color wires, and where? Appreciate any expert help. Cheers, Merv.
The A/C should still work. It just shifts from displaying a temperature to using 0 to 10 settings.

The latch switches are in the front where the latches themselves are located. You could jumper the switches but it would be better to fix them. You' have to pull the front upper trim to get to them.

In the rear, the latch switches should close when you flip your switch to latch the 5th bow. Once again, I'd suggest repair over jumpering. But you could hard jumper them.
 
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