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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey everyone, my name is chris. I just bought my first saab, i have always wanted one ever since my older brother had his 900 when we were young. Unfortunately i went the cheap route and bought a saab that is not running currently. it is a 2001 9.5 2.3t, i am excited to get it running!! I found this forum when i was google advice on fixing the car. I am pretty sure it is the fuel pump from my past experiences with vehicles, but after reading thing on this forums it seems like these vehicles have some gremlins lurking in the electrical system. I will be asking questions when i get started with it. There are a lot of knowledgeable people on here that have posted some very useful information..;ol;
 

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Welcome!
Do you hear the pump come on when you try to start it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thank you, i have only got to try to turn it over a few times before the battery went out, but i turned the key to the on position and listened for the pump before i cranked it and i could not hear it. I know that the previous owner replaced the dic with a new one thinking that was the problem, but it was not....
 

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Are you able to get a code (OBDII)reader?
They can be helpful.
Usually you can go by auto parts places and they read your code without charge.
But in your case, its not moving...
I got mine at Harbor Freight for about $50.
You can find them for less and also you can get bluetooth or wifi OBDII reader with app for phone.
At least you are starting with a good DIC.
You can loosen the fuel line going into the fuel rail at engine. It should have some pressure as a quick check.
The fuel pump is under the rear seat, if you lift the seat up it should be easier to hear if its working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
the cel is on, i have a friend who has an obdII scanner, if the pump is not running is it likely a relay gone bad or the pump is out?? 153000 miles
 

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the cel is on, i have a friend who has an obdII scanner, if the pump is not running is it likely a relay gone bad or the pump is out?? 153000 miles
6 of one or a bakers half dozen.
When I think mine is going or is bad on which ever car, I jump it directly from 12v to isolate if it is the pump (most expensive part) or if its something else.
Get codes read.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok. Well I got the car to start tonight. After 10-12 times of cranking it. When it did start the engine was a little rough. And it didn't really smooth out as it warmed up. The cel was not on at first but then it came on after a min or two. I cleared it and came back one again. Once the far started I would shut the engine of and I could restart it sometimes easy, sometimes it would take longer. The code it is giving is p1444 , canister close valve circuit. Open short to ground. Thanks in advance for any help you can offee
 

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Purge valve blocked, either it does not work or its leads have a short or open.
 

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You can remove the purge valve solenoid and try testing it using a 12v lead. Some people have had luck spraying a bit of throttle body cleaner or electronics contact cleaner into the solenoid to free it up when stuck open or closed.

I had to replace mine--the spray cleaning didn't work--but prior to doing replacing it, I was able to verify that it was kaput by using a 12v lead.

I sourced a good used one from Goldwing Saab:
http://www.goldwingsaab.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks. Ill give that a shot. Two questions, where do I locate the purge valve? Lol. I haven't got a manual yet, and would that likely be the culprit that makes it not want to start? I tried to start again this morning and it did not want to fire .
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i have not got to take a look at the solenoid yet, but i was wondering what input anyone could give about maybe a bad crank sensor not letting the car start. a few people have thrown that out to me when i describe the problem i am having, but for $130.00 its not something i want to buy on a guess
 

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Don't guess it's the CPS; they don't usually throw a code.
i have not got to take a look at the solenoid yet, but i was wondering what input anyone could give about maybe a bad crank sensor not letting the car start. a few people have thrown that out to me when i describe the problem i am having, but for $130.00 its not something i want to buy on a guess
 

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i have not got to take a look at the solenoid yet, but i was wondering what input anyone could give about maybe a bad crank sensor not letting the car start. a few people have thrown that out to me when i describe the problem i am having, but for $130.00 its not something i want to buy on a guess
no you shouldnt.
But if you did... advance auto has the crankshaft sensor for $125 ($95)
and the crank angle sensor for $75. ($45)
I am not sure which one of these is the "crank sensor"
both with lifetime warranty, (Likely Chinese but they will replace free of charge if it ever went bad)
I buy online and pick up in store,
For any order over $75 use code "BIG30" for $30 off.
If you bought more than $150 use code "VISA" for $50 off
P20 = 20% off
all of that said, I would track down what is throwing the CEL first.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...-Intermotor_18481579-P_762_R|GRPSENSAMS_____#
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...-Beck-Arnley_10002326-P_762_R|GRPSENSAMS_____
 

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New Bosch CPS is only $68 + shipping from eEuroparts, and many folks recommend replacing it as a quasi-maintenance item anyway, after 80-90K miles. Generally, a failed CPS will show in hot-start problems first (i.e. cold starts will be fine, but not hot starts). A CPS can also be tested--more or less--using the ohms function in a multi-tester.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I cleared the code on the cpu, and now I have no luck getting the car to start. I can smell fuel as I try to start it, and I did try a different dic and still no luck. I did order the crank sensor from e europarts last night. I didn't realize the was a crank angle sensor also . Thanks for everyones help with my car, I will post results when the crank sensor comes in.
 

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Just spending money on parts you think is bad; is not the way to go if your guess is the CPS you should’ve gotten one from eBay for $30 then when you find out it's not the problem at least you could keep one as spare. Now you smell gas; that should tell you, you have a bigger problem, one a CPS won't solve. A P1444 is your EVAP system, did you check that yet? Or did you get other codes?



i have not got to take a look at the solenoid yet, but i was wondering what input anyone could give about maybe a bad crank sensor not letting the car start. a few people have thrown that out to me when i describe the problem i am having, but for $130.00 its not something i want to buy on a guess
 
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