You go over bump and rear makes terrible "babang" then bounce just a little. But just a little.
New car, new questions
As I've changed my '91 red into '92 cirrus white LPT some things still need to be resolved.
1. Hunting idling. Well, it's been told so much about it but I think I could think out some way to rule AIC out. Usually unsolid idling can be caused by vac leak or worn AIC. If you're sure there's no leak your second suspect is AIC. HT leads, spark plugs, rotor arm and distributor cap replaced, however distributor has some minor oil leak. Correct me if I'm wrong: what if you warm engine to proper temperature, your idling is still undecided a little, so you unplug AIC to see if idling will become stable or not. If you don't touch anything it could be assumed engine needs constant flow of air. So my thought is - if idling is still hunting your AIC could be OK. If not - definitely AIC. There's another interesting thing. Except unstable idling (100-150 rpms range) engine behaves always in the same manner - after starting rpms go at 1000-1100 - that's the moment when AMM is completely ignored by ECU and after 20-30 seconds they go down but too low - about 400 rpms then 1200, then 600 and 1100 and finally they 'stabilise' at 900-1000. AIC is Lucas thing.
2. Rear suspension. No money no honey - I can't replace all shocks and all springs at one time. Rear is sagging after bumps and tyres hits upper wheel housing - even with only driver inside. My previous car (Aero) didn't have this problem. I'm asking what is more important in this case - shocks or springs? Which of them need replacement now?
1. Hunting idling. Well, it's been told so much about it but I think I could think out some way to rule AIC out. Usually unsolid idling can be caused by vac leak or worn AIC. If you're sure there's no leak your second suspect is AIC. HT leads, spark plugs, rotor arm and distributor cap replaced, however distributor has some minor oil leak. Correct me if I'm wrong: what if you warm engine to proper temperature, your idling is still undecided a little, so you unplug AIC to see if idling will become stable or not. If you don't touch anything it could be assumed engine needs constant flow of air. So my thought is - if idling is still hunting your AIC could be OK. If not - definitely AIC. There's another interesting thing. Except unstable idling (100-150 rpms range) engine behaves always in the same manner - after starting rpms go at 1000-1100 - that's the moment when AMM is completely ignored by ECU and after 20-30 seconds they go down but too low - about 400 rpms then 1200, then 600 and 1100 and finally they 'stabilise' at 900-1000. AIC is Lucas thing.
2. Rear suspension. No money no honey - I can't replace all shocks and all springs at one time. Rear is sagging after bumps and tyres hits upper wheel housing - even with only driver inside. My previous car (Aero) didn't have this problem. I'm asking what is more important in this case - shocks or springs? Which of them need replacement now?
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