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I am new to this forum so i do apologize ahead of time for any mistakes i may do. :cheesy:

So, earlier today i was driving my 2000 9-3 5-speed manual, and i noticed that i did not hear my turbo. I rolled down the window to try and hear it and i didn't hear anything but wind ect... and i did shift up to 5500rpm from 2,3,4 gear. I dont know if it is a problem with my 9-3 or if my hearing is just bad. Ive also read that i should replace my turbo at around 100k miles and Im at 126k. I would like to get a performance turbo anyway so i have somewhat of an excuse. But anyhow can someone please give me some turbo upgrade i could get. I would not like them to above the cost of $1000 1 because im not rich and 2 i paid $1350 for the car (was in great condition when i got it) but please leave me a list of turbocharger upgrades please! ;ol;

I do plan on making my 9-3 a stage 1 so i can beat my mini cooper friend in a race!
 

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Welcome to SaabCentral. Cailen.

And thanks for apologizing in advance for posting to the wrong forum ..... your mistake has now been rectified. So ...........

 

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There really isn't any set time you should replace the turbo. Where on the boost gauge is the needle reaching?
If you want to upgrade your turbo then you will spend about 1k on it, but that is just the start. You will need a tune, IC, DP, etc.
But if you want just stage 1 then a tune is all you need, so start by telling us where the needle goes, is it somewhat fast, weird noises when on boost, smoke?
 

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Just so you know, turbo boost is reduced in 1st and 2nd gears to reduce wheel spin and to save the transmission. A stage one tune (~$200) would be a much better option than a larger turbo that wouldn't even work efficiently without a tune... Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay so I drove today and I did manage to hear the turbo spool and the boost needle did move. But my friend convinced me that I should get a better turbo. What are some good turbos that will not break the bank
 

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Which turbo do you have now, the Garrett or the Mitsubishi TD-04? If you have the Garrett, then you can upgrade to a TD-04, but keep in mind that you'll need a tune before you can make full use of it. If you get, or already have, a TD-04, there are plenty of other things to do first before getting an even better turbo, like installing a 3" downpipe, freer-flowing muffler, larger intercooler, etc.
 

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So where does the needle max out at; does your friend have a Saab; what kind of tune is the car is? Do you have the right plugs, are all the vacuum lines semi-new and connected; are you running the highest oct? Not saying that you don't need a new turbo here, but unless its making lots of noise, burning oil, then I would hold off. You would be surprised what a tune and new hardware can do.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i didn't go to fast I went over the speed limit by 5 going 55 and the needle was in the red. And it is not burning any oil, I don't smell any.
 

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Turbocharger.

If you have a 2000 BASE 9-3 and the needle is going into the "Red" this is not "normal". Base cars (B205E Engines) use the Garrett G-17 and have a maximum (stock) boost of .58BAR which is about 8.5 PSI. The GT-17 is not good for much more than 10 psi, since it has limited Compressor and Turbine flow capacity. If you car has a GT-17 then you are pushing the limit of the Turbo. FYI, the black line at the start of the "red" zone on the gauge is 10 PSI. If you are in the red zone, then you are getting more boost than the Base car should generate under stock conditions. This means that the car has been modified in some way to increase the boost, likely a "Stage 1" ECM only Tune. I have a Tuned and Modified 99 9-3 SE (B204R+ T-5) and a 2000 Bone Stock Base 9-3 (B205E T-7) and I have run the data logger on both cars, so I am pretty certain that the numbers that I am quoting are correct. My 99 runs 1.24 bar or 18PSI maximum, just below fuel cut with a GT-25, which is all that the automatic transmission can stand. The only thing that I CANNOT say for sure is if the 5 speed "Base" 9-3 might have had an option to use the B205L, which makes more boost, I do not think so, But I cannot verify that information. Another thing to keep in mind is that the TRIONIC engine management system will also limit boost based on Fuel Octane, Intake Air temp, engine coolant temp, gear position (on some cars) and knock limit of the engine. My T-5 car will produce about 2psi more boost on 93 octane fuel than 91 octane and about 6 psi less on 89 octane "regular". TRIONIC senses engine detonation (spark knock) and reduces timing and boost to eliminate the problem. This also reduces power. So on a Cool 35 degree F day with 93 octane fuel, you will get your maximum boost. Same car on a Hot 100 degree day with regular gas will make a LOT less boost. There are a multitude of factors that will influence your boost pressure. Bottom Line is that a "New turbo" is not the magic bullet, it is just NOT that Simple. You need to figure out what you have first, establish a "Baseline" and build from there. This IS NOT a simple process.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If you have a 2000 BASE 9-3 and the needle is going into the "Red" this is not "normal". Base cars (B205E Engines) use the Garrett G-17 and have a maximum (stock) boost of .58BAR which is about 8.5 PSI. The GT-17 is not good for much more than 10 psi, since it has limited Compressor and Turbine flow capacity. If you car has a GT-17 then you are pushing the limit of the Turbo. FYI, the black line at the start of the "red" zone on the gauge is 10 PSI. If you are in the red zone, then you are getting more boost than the Base car should generate under stock conditions. This means that the car has been modified in some way to increase the boost, likely a "Stage 1" ECM only Tune. I have a Tuned and Modified 99 9-3 SE (B204R+ T-5) and a 2000 Bone Stock Base 9-3 (B205E T-7) and I have run the data logger on both cars, so I am pretty certain that the numbers that I am quoting are correct. My 99 runs 1.24 bar or 18PSI maximum, just below fuel cut with a GT-25, which is all that the automatic transmission can stand. The only thing that I CANNOT say for sure is if the 5 speed "Base" 9-3 might have had an option to use the B205L, which makes more boost, I do not think so, But I cannot verify that information. Another thing to keep in mind is that the TRIONIC engine management system will also limit boost based on Fuel Octane, Intake Air temp, engine coolant temp, gear position (on some cars) and knock limit of the engine. My T-5 car will produce about 2psi more boost on 93 octane fuel than 91 octane and about 6 psi less on 89 octane "regular". TRIONIC senses engine detonation (spark knock) and reduces timing and boost to eliminate the problem. This also reduces power. So on a Cool 35 degree F day with 93 octane fuel, you will get your maximum boost. Same car on a Hot 100 degree day with regular gas will make a LOT less boost. There are a multitude of factors that will influence your boost pressure. Bottom Line is that a "New turbo" is not the magic bullet, it is just NOT that Simple. You need to figure out what you have first, establish a "Baseline" and build from there. This IS NOT a simple process.
The needle was on the border of red, and from what I know the car is completely stock
 

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New, better turbo charger recommendations?

Well, Then I would put a data logger on the car and look at the actual BOOST PRESSURE reading. As I stated above, the pressure that you are seeing indicated on the dash gauge is well above the "Stock" boost levels that a 2000 Base 9-3 should indicate. Therefore, something is not right.

MAP sensor is defective
Boost controller (APC) is not working
ECM Has been modified or "tuned"
Wastegate inoperative
Vacuum lines leaking or disconnected (Check EVERY Line on the engine)

I have an OBD Link MX Wi-Fi and it will give you all the information that you need. Or find a person with a Tech 2 and pull the data that way. There are plenty of other data acquisition tools that could give you this information. These are the two that I have used. Either way, you have got to figure out if your dash display is wrong or not. Your actual Manifold pressure readings will tell you that pretty quick. You can "guess" and throw money at this car all day long and still be totally lost.
 
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