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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
hey all, just purchased a 1995 saab 9000 aero and i am digging it more and more. here is a breif list about my car

came with snows wheels and summer wheels
192k miles on the dash
rebuild trans (30k-50k)
new clutch (replaced with trans)
new preasure plates (done with trans)

new head gasket (done at 130k)
new valve cover gasket (done with gasket)
new timing chain (done with head gasket)
new water pump

rear shock tower mounts and brakes have been done within the last within 50k the oil was changed every 3,000 miles and there is a thick book with all of the work and oil changes documented

anyway now too my questions

He told me that the O ring on the water pump gets "brittle" over winter and it ends up leaking coolant. he told me that this is a design flaw with the Aero's and need to be looked at every 15,000 miles... told me that the material they use is just crap. anyone else have issues with this?

my second is with the clutch pedal. I had driven a 1995 saab CS before and I am impressed with the TOTAL different feel in the clutch. I could depress the clutch in my 9000 CS all the way and bring it back up, and got used to driving this way. when I drove the Aero I tried to do the same and the clutch felt like it would "stick" before it came up. if I dont depress it all the way it drives fine and feels great. Im wondering if the clutch is worn, or if the slave cyl is going?

Any help would be awesome
Thanks guys
 

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All water pumps have a weep seal where the drive shaft goes in, behind the pulley. If that seal wears then the water pump begins seeping coolant. this tells you to replace the water pump before it fails. For added excitement SAAB arranges for the coolant to drip onto the turbo oil cooler pipe so when the thermostat for that opens then the coolant burns off giving a "lovely" artificial maple syrup smell.

The water pump is not a "crap" design. it is carefully designed to work this way. I have replaced just one water pump on my four SAAB's so the design is good. Mind you, the 99 had a weird in-block water pump which was a bear to replace so good thing it was well built!

If your water pump shows any signs of weeping from the nose seal then just replace it, they are cheap.

Your clutch symptoms sound like a blockage in the hydraulics due to internal deterioration of flexible lines, lack of proper bleeding or possibly the Master Cylinder failing. The later cars had very durable Master Cylinders compared to early cars. However, if that MC is original then a new one could be needed.
 

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Try bleeding the clutch first to see if that resolves the problem.

If not, check the clutch line that goes from the master cylinder to where the metal line for the slave comes out of the transmission. The rubber portion could be old.

If that line looks good then it's either the master cylinder or slave cylinder.
 

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The water pump design with the o-ring is not crap. The o-rings do not get brittle easily. I'd recommend bleeding the clutch also, if nothing else to renew the brake fluid which has been sitting stagnantly there.

You don't need anything fancy to bleed the clutch hydraulic when no air bubble is present. Go to Home Depot to get a piece of proper size clear plastic hose. Turn the bleed nipple on the gear box loose half a turn. Attach the plastic hose leading to a glass jar on the floor. Go in to have a beer. Come back out to check every 10 minutes or so to top up the brake fouid in the reservoir. When the fluid which comes out turns clear you can tighten the bleeder nipple. It is a good idea to do this every two years or so to keep the clutch hydraulic fluid fresh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks for all the replys guys i appreciate it.

I called the previous owner about the timing chain. and it turns out that he replaced the timing chain when he did the head gasket! flipped through the service records and sure enough lol, takes a loud of my head.

you guys are awesome im definitely sticking to these boards!
 

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Just a note on this. The wife's 9k got a new clutch and slave at 140kmi. I used a ScanTech slave as the Saab one was not in stock. Biggest regret ever. The clutch wants to stick down especially when warm. My guess is the bore of the slave is tapered. So, I need to re-do the clutch. I replaced the hose and master to no avail. It is the slave. So, the weird clutch feel may be a dodgy slave cylinder...
 
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