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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hoping for some help here, i have tried to work this out myself..but with no luck...:( The engine is a 900 2.0i 16v 94

Here it goes..:
The car is perfectly good to drive with, but when i try to accelerate, the car starts "jumping" like it gets too much air or something, it looses its power when im accelerating in hillroads..sometimes it takes off like it should, but not for long..:(

things i have changed..:
Sparkplugs and everything with the spark/egnition..
"Airflow commander" or what it`s called?? :D the cylinder-kinda-thing after the airfilterbox..

Sorry for the vocabulary, but i`m from Norway, and i`m busy at work..:D


Anyone have any idea of what i should look for, fix??

Greetings Terje, Norway! :)
 

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I assume you mean the Air Mass Meter, on a non-turbo car. In the US the 2.0 liter was a turbo, and the only non-turbo engine sold was the 2.3 liter. We get a little confused when someone posts about a model sold only in europe.

So do you need advice from someone with a non-turbo engine, possibly with experience with AMM problems?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Quite right:) this is a non turbo engine... the Air Mass Meter is brand new, so the problem doesn`t sit there... damn..:(

anyone got a clue??
 

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tplassen said:
...the Air Mass Meter is brand new
So what cylinder did you mean? I assumed the AMM, but now I think you must mean the idle air control valve? That should only be used at idle, otherwise it should be closed. Have you tried cleaning it?

The crank position sensor is a possibility, it is used differently on the non-turbo cars with the Motronic ecu... or oil leaking into the distributor through one of the o-rings... or my favorite from the turbo, problems with the PCV valve or a vacuum line.

I hope someone with the non-turbo engine will pick this up...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
the cylinder thingy was the AMM:D sorry, i just couldn`t find the right word at that moment :p:lol:

Yupp, i too hope someone with good exp. from a non turbo engine picks this up:)
 

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Before you go and spend lots of money, it may be worth while running the fualt codes description how to here, at least doing this will eliminate the things on the list.

Crank speed and cam position sensors can both give the sort of poor driving you've described, but so can a vacuum leak, I'd be tempted to go back over all the joins within the inlet assembly and make sure they are all good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So thaaaats what that thingy is for...always wondered what it was:D
I`ll look it up and check it straight away...thanks so far!:)
 

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Is it possible to purchase a connector and software to enable Engine Management System information to be viewed on a laptop rather than taking the car to the dealer for checks and reset?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
okey, a little update here now...


when I`m standing still with the engine running, and I just push the peadle down so the engine goes from about 800rpm up to 3000rpm and then let go of the peadle, it drops down to 300rpms and up to 800rpms again...so, it has to be a vacuum hose leak then, right??

anyone know a good solution to find out where to search??


thx:)

greetings Norway:D
 

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tplassen said:
when I`m standing still with the engine running, and I just push the peadle down so the engine goes from about 800rpm up to 3000rpm and then let go of the peadle, it drops down to 300rpms and up to 800rpms again...so, it has to be a vacuum hose leak then, right??
That reads like either vacuum failure somewhere [as you've put a hose leak] or the idle control valve is sticking, though usually if it is the idle control valve the car will also sometimes stall instead of resting at idle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
idle control walve?? do u have a pict of that?? we use very different words here in norway than in the states:D
 

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The idle control is directly before the throttle control - when this is closed during idling, this AIC(air idle control) allows enough air to by-pass the throttle to generate a good idle speed.

But ,over time ,this becomes dirty, and sticks causing an erratic idle speed.

At the 100K** service, this, and other items must be cleaned and examined..

**A theory of mine- to maintain a high level of reliability, these things should be done on a schedule, but the intervals are a guess at best...
 

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This may help...

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
damn...still the same problem with my engine..i have tried everything i`ve been told, nothing seems to get rid of my problem...:(

It has to be a vacuum leak somewhere...since it only happens when i throtle the gas hard... it moves forward as normal, but not clean ---> it feels like towing a car behind me with a very baaad towing-line...understand?? :D

... if i`m easy with the throtle (pedal) or what i should call it ( :) ) it moves clean.....

WHAT IS WRONG, WHERE SHOULD I SEARCH?? i`m desperate...:roll:


Greetings Norway:)
 

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tplassen :Sorry for the vocabulary, but i`m from Norway, and i`m busy at work..:D

Anyone have any idea of what i should look for, fix??

earthworm : Funny how those with a 98% quality vocab/grammer will say this and those with a 9.8% continue in their illerate way;the MLB forum as an example..I am finding it to be true that "non-English" speakers use better English than average Americans..

Anyway, were this a carburetor equiped car, rather than fuel injection, I would repair the accellerator pump and linkage.

Fuel injection also must have some kind of enrichment device(s).

One may be the fuel pressure control using vacuum. And the vacuum must be connected to the right ports...

Why was the air mass meter changed ? And is it the correct one for certain ??...
 

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Could it be a misfire?

Also the image I posted is from the Saab WIS cdrom.
 

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This is from the left field, but what is the condition of your exhaust system? Could it possibly be a muffler that is collapsing internally? Is there any kind of unusual noise associated with this occurence? Something very similar happened to my old Renault Fuego to the degree of stalling on acceleration but it idled fine. In the end I got stuck going up a hill. Once I figured out what was causing it (say about an hour's worth of swearing my head off) I ended up punching about 5 holes into the muffler (do you guys call it a silencer?) with the largest screwdriver I had and away I went. It was bloody noisy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
earthworm said:
tplassen :Sorry for the vocabulary, but i`m from Norway, and i`m busy at work..:D

Anyone have any idea of what i should look for, fix??

earthworm : Funny how those with a 98% quality vocab/grammer will say this and those with a 9.8% continue in their illerate way;the MLB forum as an example..I am finding it to be true that "non-English" speakers use better English than average Americans..

Anyway, were this a carburetor equiped car, rather than fuel injection, I would repair the accellerator pump and linkage.

Fuel injection also must have some kind of enrichment device(s).

One may be the fuel pressure control using vacuum. And the vacuum must be connected to the right ports...

Why was the air mass meter changed ? And is it the correct one for certain ??...
thx earthworm:)
tonight i were at my engine quite some time...i saw that my gas-wire seemed to be too long...when i throtled it manualy from the engine, the wire was sticking out 1inch after i`d throtled it...may this be a clue to my problem??

I changed my AMM because I thought it was broken...i thought the problem was within the AMM...but it wasn`t:roll:

I`ll check out my exhaust tomorrow, there isn`t any strange noice/sound from the exhaust...but maybe the catalysator isn`t clean inside?? defect?

and i`ll also check out if I can find some fuel-pressure-vacuum errors...but, could it be that my "fuel-filter" is ready for a change??

I just have to get this engine to run perfect before the winter comes, after the winter this engine can go to h*ll, since i`ll switch it with a Viggen next summer:)

I`m very thankfull of every reply I get, so I can get my engine running perfect!:)

**I`ll put up some photos from the engine tomorrow** maybe that will help u helping me:)

greetings Norway
 

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Interesting, Zolf, about the exhaust restriction and I do believe it is fairly rare..

With my old '79 900, with about 120K miles, starting became a bit slower, top end was off (could not hit 100), and the engine operating temperature increased 10% or so..

Turns out that the original muffler was clogged - I never knew any Saab muffler to last that long !!

Back to the problem car - I do not know about this throttle cable ....
Mr Plassen(hope this is correct) - do you have cruise control ??
BTW, does this car still do 120 mph ??
If so, then I think some items can be eliminated..
 
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