SaabCentral Forums banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
215 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

I was cleaning my engine bay when I saw a small oil leak from the valve cover. The thing is, I replaced the valve cover gasket already, and this leak is coming from this round hole on the driver's side of the valve cover. Its near the front and Im not sure if this is normal? I attached a picture that shows where the oil seepage is coming from. Im not sure what this part is so if someone could explain to me, that would be great. Thanks again!

Lawrence
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,326 Posts
That looks like the plug that covers the hole where the distributor would be on a non-turbocharged model. From what I've heard, it's not an uncommon leak. A quick look through the parts catalog looks like the plug is a $58.00 part, but their is a simple o-ring on it that may be the culprit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,584 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,293 Posts
Valve Cover (Cam-End) Plug



Depending on the model year, there are different plugs, with and w/o a seal.

It may not be as simple as a new plug. Better ask why it is leaking. It is held in pretty tightly, by a metal clamp under the valve cover. By the time I was done, we fixed small leaks at the valve cover, the filler tube, the cam end plug, gummed up pcv lines etc.

The cam end plug seals the opening in the valve cover on 900SE models, used to attach the distributor on the 900S. There are two different plugs, the one on my car, shown below, and a mushroom shaped plug with an o-ring seal used on some other models. The plug is held in by a clamp with two torx bolts that require a hollow-point bit.

The plug shown in the pics is p/n 9135211, used from 1996 on, about $5 list
The plug and o-ring combo is p/n 9169285, 7519143, 1994-95, about $60
(the model years are from EPC, which is not always accurate on dates)

Pics (above):

a) Original leak (leaking for 6-8 months, perhaps more)
b) Few weeks after quick cleaning, ugly but minimal seepage
c) After plug reinstalled with hi-temp sealer

Thumbnails (below):

d) Detail of diagram from EPC CD
e) Plug with valve cover off showing the two torx screws
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,696 Posts
PMI said:
Depending on the model year, there are different plugs, with and w/o a seal.

It may not be as simple as a new plug. Better ask why it is leaking. It is held in pretty tightly, by a metal clamp under the valve cover. By the time I was done, we fixed small leaks at the valve cover, the filler tube, the cam end plug, gummed up pcv lines etc.

The cam end plug seals the opening in the valve cover on 900SE models, used to attach the distributor on the 900S. There are two different plugs, the one on my car, shown below, and a mushroom shaped plug with an o-ring seal used on some other models. The plug is held in by a clamp with two torx bolts that require a hollow-point bit.

The plug shown in the pics is p/n 9135211, used from 1996 on, about $5 list
The plug and o-ring combo is p/n 9169285, 7519143, 1994-95, about $60
(the model years are from EPC, which is not always accurate on dates)

Pics:

a) Original leak (leaking for 6-8 months, perhaps more)
b) Few weeks after quick cleaning, ugly but minimal seepage
c) After plug reinstalled with hi-temp sealer
d) EPC diagram detail
e) Plug with valve cover off showing the two torx screws
What a helpful post PMI! (too bad i got a v6)

Tboy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
215 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
wow thanks for the really helpful tips guys! I have a 97 se so I'm guessing I need the 5 dollar part? Is it usually replaced with a new valve cover gasket? I have my valve gasket done about 800 miles ago. If i decide to replace it should i redo the v.c. gasket too? thanks again for all your help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,293 Posts
A lot depends on how much is leaking, if there are any other leaks etc. Sorry there is no clear answer. I only figured it out gradually.

The valve cover gasket is only $10-15 for the gasket itself, so most of the expense is labor. You should not need a new one after 800 miles, but a mechanic might put one in just to be 100% sure you don't come back with a new leak.

The other spots may or may not be leaking, but if they are, best to get tham all at the same time. Because the oil leaks go down, sometimes it is hard to find the other places. That includes the following:

The Cam-end plug (most visible)
Oil filler tube seal (low on back of engine)
Valve cover grommet (on the valve cover under the plenum)
Sometimes the oil pressure sensor, which is directly below the filler tube
(for this you have to be under the car)

The valve cover grommet is a couple bucks. The PVC valve costs about $15, and should really be replaced or at least checked every 30k miles. Takes five minutes. The hoses it is attached to should be replaced with it. Fifteen minutes, and about $0.50-2.00 for the hose. You can do it yourself.

I would not be in any big hurry if the leaks are small. What I had to do was clean all the old oil off, which was a giant pain, a couple hours with a brush like a long tooth brush, like the detailers use, degreaser, and detergent. Then wait a couple weeks for the leaks to come back, so you can see where they are.

From 1997 on, you should check the headbolts when the valve cover is off. Only needs to be done once, but on some engines they get loose, and have to be re-tightened. There is a Saab service bulletin on that, including all the information you or the mechanic needs. Again, you only do this ONE time.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top