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I was in the process of replacing my serpentine belt on my 97 900SE, when the 1/2 extension broke off a side of the 1/2 socket that rests on top the tensioner pulley, which makes it impossible for me to loosen up the pulley system.

If anybody has any suggestions on an alternative way to loosen this up, or maybe even a product I could use to mend the wall back on. I was also thinking maybe mighty putty might work for a temporary fix, however I've never used it so I'm not sure how it will hold.
 

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I did the same thing on mine, luckily the side that broke was the part that faced the engine and I was able to loosen it later when I replaced the tensioner by just concentrating my force in a direction to the front and away fro the engine.

It probably didn't hurt that the tensioner was pretty loose.

Worst case maybe something like a strap wrench might work.
 

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Is there no way to stick a pry bar back there and actually pry against the tensioner pulley to loosen the tension? I mean the 1/2" socket on the tensioner certainly is a great facility to the mechanic/DIY'er but I'd hate to think it was the only way to release the belt tension.

I think you can muscle it forward with some other tool (or brute force). Maybe a hole can be drilled in the top, right inside the remains of the socket and use something to hook it or use a perhaps thinner prying tool. Possibilities *may* be endless in this endeavor.

Is the assembly made out of cast aluminum? Would explain why it snapped so easily.
 

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It seems to be as issue if the extension isn't fully inserted into the tensioner. That's one reason that I don't lock the tensioner in place with a pin. I figure that it takes less force to move it forward from a full rest than to move it forward from the locked position... Ron
 

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Its a while since i've had the belt off , but i'm pretty sure that the strutt mount roll bar gets in the way of the lever when releasing the tension , which in turn can result in problems locating the lever in the hole.
Better to take this off first. 2 minute job.
I wouldn't try levering against another part of the engine to release the tension. Order a new pulley and belt and cut the old belt off when your fitting them. You may want to replace the idler pulley as well , it's a cheap part.
New tensioner pulley $70. It is cast Alum.
 

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Its a while since i've had the belt off , but i'm pretty sure that the strutt mount roll bar gets in the way of the lever when releasing the tension , which in turn can result in problems locating the lever in the hole.
Better to take this off first. 2 minute job.
I wouldn't try levering against another part of the engine to release the tension. Order a new pulley and belt and cut the old belt off when your fitting them. You may want to replace the idler pulley as well , it's a cheap part.
New tensioner pulley $70. It is cast Alum.
I never had a problem with the strut roll bar getting in the way....

Just pulled the airbox out and I was good to go.
 

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OP, others are correct, the breakage is often due to the extension not being fully inserted. The PO of my car did exactly that. I have enough "depth" left over to move the tensioner if I am slow and methodical.

Another option is to use the belt itself to move the tensioner. Keep in mind, you are GOING to trash the belt. But, if you can grip the belt with one hand (or, better yet, a set of extra hands) below the tensioner and then use the pliers of your choice, you will be able to move the belt. I do agree with RodEdgar though, once you have the tension off, you really ought to replace it. Go to the junk yard and see what you can figure out.
 

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I never had a problem with the strut roll bar getting in the way....

Just pulled the airbox out and I was good to go.
I just went out and tried it and your right , the bar isn't in the way.When i insert a lever it just fits on the front side of the bar.
My old belt must have been badly stretched , and the locating hole must have been sitting further back than normal.
 
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