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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 900t Saab key fits only on one side and fits poorly in my ignition ,doors, and hatch . I managed to duplicate the only bent key I that came with the car after a locksmith failed (kept popping out of the machine. )4 years ago .We have a machine at work but I had trouble but manage to get a copy that functions Today I removed my Hatch lock(same as ignition ) and am taking it to work to try to figure out which is the good side of the key so I can make a pattern that fits on both sides and easily in all locks.(bought lots of blanks!)Been fighting it for 4 years ! Anyone know which side of the ignition the pins are in? Are they :confused: top or bottom? How hard is it to remove the Ignition key barrel to replace in a 84 automatic should I fail ?:eek: Pat
 

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REDTURBO84 said:
How hard is it to remove the Ignition key barrel to replace in a 84 automatic should I fail?
Instructions from the service manual:

To remove lock barrel:
  1. Remove the gear lever housing.
  2. Turn the ignition key mid-way between the "locked" and "garage" positions.
  3. When the key is in this position, the lock barrel pin can be pressed in with a suitable rod inserted through a hole under the gear lever housing.
  4. Remove the lock barrel.
To fit lock barrel:
  1. Turn the key in the lock barrel to a position roughly mid-way between the "locked" and "garage" positions.
  2. Press in the lock barel pin. Check that the toothed segment driver pins are in the correct position in relation to the lock barrel slot. Push in the lock barrel and check that it is in engagement with the toothed segment.
  3. Fit the gear lever housing.

You can find scanned images from the Saab service manuals that relate to the ignition lock here:
http://saabpics.org:3000/gallery/album133

Might also be included in Bentley.

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Key Problem

I don't know how things are in USA but would believe they arent that different in this regard.Here,U.K,if you take the old barrel into a Keycutter he can look up the number on the side of the barrel and cut to the spec listed.I have had occasion to do this twice.Before the first time I went to a 'reputable' Saab dealer to get a key cut from the engine no listed in the Log Book.It turned into a sorry saga over two weeks when they cut the wrong key!! The Keycutter did it in minutes for a third the cost!! Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all the info.I got to work and someone broke the machine !:eek: So I spent any spare time fixing that first.:confused: Does anyone know if the numbers stamped on the hatch lock side the ones that a locksmith needs? I 'm avoiding ripping out the console unless necessary. I tried to correct 1 key by using just the side of the key that fit fine and duplicating it but it wouldn't work .:roll: I'll try a few more times when I'm less busy with customers needs ,later in the week,when it slows down a bit. I was on vacation for 10 days!:cheesy:pat
 

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why do all saab keys break? we've cracked 4 that i know of in my family, and im using a 89 turbo key on my 92 900 S as of now..saabs ignitions are whack
 

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Key needs to be steel.

I actually have a precise caliper here. Let's see the width of the Saab keys I have sitting in front of me on my desk.

NG 900 Original Saab Key : 3mm wide, 6 1/10 mm high.
OG 900 Original Saab Key : 2mm wide, 8 9/10 mm high (before cut)
OG "Ilco" Key (brass) : 1 4/5mm wide, 8 9/10 mm high.
OG "Curtis" key (brass) : 1 4/5mm wide, 8 9/10mm high.

So it is fairly easy to see that a STEEL Saab key, that is 1/5 of a milimetre wider, will be much more durable and break-resistant in the lock.
 

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My keys seem as though are about to go. Not by cracking but from plain old wear. The key itself is dulling down. And the driver door lock is also all worn from what appeared to be a previous owner repetatively missing the key hole. If the keys are still in good enough condition to make duplicates, that should be the end of it.

Johnny
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well,I managed to make 1 key today that fits the ignition lock and doors on both sides today but it's not quite perfect.:nono; (a little notchey on 1 side but still works)I figured out the pointed tip is worn down so bad ,I just need to make it thicker then grind it till it turns.;) (I hope)I could live with it like it is ,but I think I can get it even better. :cheesy: I found Eeuroparts sells just the replacement ignition cylinder for around $55 (free shipping) if all else fails.But I really desire a matched set of locks.Hey ,it's something to tinker with at work and look busy!:cheesy: Pat
 

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Key blanks?

Anyone knows where to aquire them?

I've been trying to get a new key for my car to replace the bent one - you know, the spiral twist bend - on the all metal very long one and the cracking one - stubbier with rubber/plastick grip. There isn't a single shop around here that carries blanks.

I saw a set of two, just like mine, blanks on ebay the other day, but was outbidded (by one of you, I'm sure!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I ordered a set of 10 a few years back from a COLE key dealer.(At cost $7.00)) I just used my last 1.:confused: But ,I got enough good one to last a while ,out of it. ;) They are real hard - impossible to cut on a just standard key machine . Been there! Pat

Update ;Sucess!!!:cool: I am very satisfied with my new keys I made at work .They are fine in the ignition and drivers door but only on 1 side work in the hatch and right door. It's still nice starting the car in the morning without fiting with the ignition lock .:cheesy: An associate was ordering some parts that needed replaced for the key machine so I just ordered 10 more blank spares so I'll never run out again !:eek:
 
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