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Discussion Starter #1
Hello!
I have just joined this forum after lurking for a while. A wealth of information is obtained from this site!
Anyway, a little history before I get to my question- my recently acquired Saab is a 1989 900s turbo convertible 2.0L 16 valve with 150k miles. I bought it for 500 dollars from someone that was going to trade it in and that is what the dealer offered him for it.. It is in spectacular condition with only the drivers seat having major tears and a tiny bit of rust at the bottom of the doors. New top and paperwork showing a well maintained car was a surprise!

The reason for it being 500 bucks is because the previous owner let the water pump go bad and I think he ran the engine dry for a couple of miles. I.don't.think. the engine is damaged, but I won't know until I get the pump changed... there's no water in the oil and it does start and run (with check engine light on).

the question I have is this- how hard is it to change that water pump that appears to be up against the firewall? Do I need to pull the engine or is there a special trick to getting it out? The car has air conditioning and is a turbo car, but it looks like I may be able to get my arm down on the passenger side to it. I just want to ask the pros here before I tackle this without all the facts. It's always nice that there's some people to offer advice to help out.

Now i've been a hot rod builder and shadetree mechanic for many years so I know the ins and outs of a lot of cars, but this is my first foreign ride. Not that there's anything wrong with that! I want to enjoy this car this summer especially being a convertible, so i'm willing to invest some time to make it right. For 500 bucks I figure I can invest about 1k before it becomes a loser.

Thanks in advance for any help and advice! I searched the archive and there was no definitive answer to my question.

John
 

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Changed the water pump in my '85 Turbo a few weeks ago. Found it was fairly straightforward, and the Bentley manual covers the procedure adequately. Just unbolt the A/C compressor and move it out of the way with its hoses attached, then everything else is pretty straightforward. No need for special tools that I recall. While you're in there, you might think about new hoses once you have everything uncovered...

I'd highly recommend budgeting some of your fixer-upper money on a Bentley manual if you haven't already.

Oh, and welcome! I too have found this forum to be extremely valuable.

-*- Dan
 

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I did mine not too long ago also......it wasn't very hard at all. Didn't take very long either.
You've worked on other vehicles, so this water pump should be easy for you. This forum has helped me a bazillion times with my Saab..and saved me a small fortune. Enjoy!
cheers
 

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To add to the advice you've already been given:

You can get the water pump from a number of parts stores; call around, because prices vary a lot.

For SAAB-specific parts, I totally recommend www.eeuroparts.com if you haven't tried them already.

Sounds like you've got yourself a very nice and desirable car there! Whatever you invest in it, you'll get it back if you ever sell (if you ever sell)...
 

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The water pump was one of the easier things I've changed on my 89' 900. If you're used to working on rods, you'll have no problems with these engines. I restore old Cadillacs from time to time. Just look at the Saab engine as a smaller scale and put in "backwards" :cheesy:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the advice guys! I sincerely appreciate the responses.

correct me if i'm wrong, but isn't the water pump a traditional unit that bolts onto the front (or in this case rear) of the engine? I've seen the older engines where the pump is an impellor that is up top on the drivers side. I almost get the impression from some of the responses that it's the older style.

If not, then I have a nasty radiator fluid leak from something on the firewall side of the engine and I hope it isn't a cracked block or anything.

It just doen't look that easy. But i've been mistaken before.. I've had a nasty cold for a couple of weeks so i've been reluctant to crawl around in a damp garage.

I got a price quote from the local Carquest for 34 bucks for the pump, but then again I have an account there so that helps.

Thanks for all the help! ( and putting up with my ignorance ;) )
 

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Water pump replacement:
http://68.155.246.108/cooling_system_folder/waterpump900.htm

The water pump on your car will be mounted on the front of the engine, immediately behind the firewall (it's still the front of the engine because it's mounted backwards).

Water pump replacement is straightforward. Do you have a Bentley book? If not, then go buy one and make sure you have all the necessary tools and parts to hand before starting the job. Really, you can do this.

The fluid leak next to the firewall could be a leak from the water pump or one of its hoses, or from the heater matrix hoses that pass through the firewall. If in doubt, or if the hoses look ropey then to be safe you could buy new ones. ProfZ always recommends Australian made Mackay hoses.

You can buy the water pump and the hoses from www.eeuroparts.com.

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you for the responses! I read through that link and it does sound pretty straightforward. I've worked on only a couple of foreign cars and if I broke something else, the parts were twice as expensive. I will look into europarts for my hose needs.

I just bought a bentley book off of ebay today. thanks for the suggestion!

once I get over this cold i'm going to tackle the bugger and i'll post if I need any more help.

Thanks again!!
 

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Bringing this one back from the dead:eek:. Anyone have an approx. time on this job? My '92's pump recently bit the dust.
 

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Warm weather, 1.5 hrs if you are slow, and careful. Can be a lot quicker. remember to break loose the pulley bolts before you loosen the belts. Also observe if the belts do not appear to tighten evenly after replacement of the pump, you might need to replace them, and get them as a matched set for the later years.
 

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I worked with a guy who did them in 13 minutes. It always took me at least 20 minutes. After you do 50 or so, you get good at it.
In other words, it's hard to predict how long it will take you, not knowing your experience, or tools & equipment. I'd allow an afternoon if you've never done one. A mirror perched on the firewall can help you clean the gasket surface.
 
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