[dee]

I have had my saab for about two years, and usually work on it myself. Recently, my car started having problems dying (while I was driving it) acting like it ran out of gas. I checked the fueses, and the fuse for the fuel pump was burnt out. I switched the fuse, and continued to drive the car. A few days later, the same thing happened.

My father thought it might be a problem with the fuel pump, and the shop I usually buy parts from thought it might be the fuel relay. I bought a used relay and tried to put it in- but I can't find where it goes! I was told it was underneath the kickpanel on the passenger side- but when I removed it, all I saw was an electronic panel. No relays.

Any help...on switching the relay or what the problem may be would be much appreciated!

Thanks,

-dee

 

[ProfZ]

Sure, try replacing the relay. Pull away the carpeting on the passenger side wall just forward of the door hinges. You'll see the ECU (fuel-injection computer) and above this will be 2 relays. The rearmost one is the fuel pump relay.

If the relay turns out to be OK, my guess for the cause of the problem is that the fuel pump is dying. Its resistance has increased so much that it's drawing too much current, and burning out the fuse. Replacement is the only solution, and these pumps are shockingly expensive.

 

[dee]

We've gotten this far, however it seems as if we need to remove the entire kickpanel to get above the ECU. I don't know how to do this?!?!

 

[Matthew]

it seems as if we need to remove the entire kickpanel to get above the ECU. I don't know how to do this?!?!

There is a bolt in the centre of the kick panel that's visible after the centre console's been removed:

You'll also have to remove the cover underneath the steering wheel (two bolts and one plastic clip).

There are also two bolts inside the engine bay, inside each front wing. The right-hand bolt's in here:

Close up showing bolt in centre of photo:

Left-hand bolt:

Close up showing bolt in centre of photo:

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[Matthew]

With those three bolts removed, the kick panel can be released.

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[James Bond]

Great photos - thanks.

 

[Matthew]

Welcome

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[dee]

thank you so much guys... I really appreciate ALL the help!

 

[Rodentmaster]

Matthew,

what is the device in the space for the stereo??

And going into the glovebox??

Good res pics!


Cheers

 

[jefspg]

I am just finishing up a DIY section for this, but my pictures are not as good as yours!

Do you mind if I use these picts?

 

[unkleG'sif]

one of the most comprehensive "how to's" ive seen for a while.... nice one matthew!!!!

G

 

[Matthew]

Thanks for the compliments. I have a confession to make: I took the pics and words from a previous post of mine!

what is the device in the space for the stereo?? And going into the glovebox??

It's the cradle for an Origin B2 head unit. That's a GPS device that tells me when there are fixed-site speed cameras around.

I am just finishing up a DIY section for this, but my pictures are not as good as yours! Do you mind if I use these picts?

No problem using the pics I can email you the originals as they came out of the camera if you like...? I'll drop you a PM.

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[dee]

Well...After all of that, the relays were fine...and I had to change out the fuel pump. Alot of work (a whole day project) but it only cost me a total of 118$...which Im sure would have been at least triple the cost if I would have taken it to a shop!

My saab is working again Now onto the horn and the speedomoter!

Thanks guys

 

[cinemarr]

what's wrong with your horn? Is it a standard wheel or a custom?

 

[dee]

Standard...looks like this

One of the horn covers is broken off and needs to be replaced, and the horn itself doesn't work at all.

Shortly after that went out, the spedometer went out. I was wondering if these were related? But I've had alot of other stuff to deal with, and most of this was cosmetic- or could wait.

 

[cinemarr]

horn not working

if you don't have a horn to drive that's very dangerous. take off the small cover plate underneath the wheel and see if there's a little rod coming out from the bottom of the wheel. This rod should be touching the metal circle plate so that when you press the horn button it goes through the wire, the rod then the car. I don't know any technical terms for these parts just "thingy" and the "whatsit" type language.*

if the rod isn't touching then horn won't work

 

[dee]

I understand it's dangerous to drive without a horn, and I do appreciate your conern

I'll be looking into this soon, like I said- there's been alot of other things wrong, and I'm just glad it's running!

*dee*

 

[cinemarr]

jeez I was being a bit of a mother there wasn't I?

The only reason I know about the rod in the wheel is because I just fitted a Nardi wheel and c900 boss kit removing my old wheel which is slightly different to yours so when I attatched it the horn wouldn't work until I discovered I hadn't tightened the wheel enough.

I've only had my car since dec 04 so I am pretty new to these problems but with the help of this forum I hope to learn a lot about my car so I don't have to rely on dodgy mechanics and the saab dealerships here are gangsters and if you drive anything earlier than a late 90's they turn their noses up at you.

it'll be interesting to see how our cars go seeing as though they are close in age or is yours a turbo as mine is just injected.

Good luck with the horn.

 

[Eugene]

I often read through the threads on this site just to gain knowledge........I'm just amazed at the expert knowledge available and the helpfulness. This is indeed a great site and you guys are all diamonds!! Take a bow all of you

 

[ProfZ]

We've gotten this far, however it seems as if we need to remove the entire kickpanel to get above the ECU.

I have the same car you do (1990 auto, 3-door) and all I did was peel back the carpeting and undo the fasteners holding the ECU to the car body. I never had to remove the lower dash panel to get at the pump relays. I apologize for not mentioning this detail earlier;oops: