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Discussion Starter #1
2006 Saab 9-3 2.0 Sedan 192,000 miles 5 speed.

My car is used from November to April for winter transportation and I have owned it for 6 trouble free years. Upon start up this season, the display indicated that the battery is not charging.

Doing some search and research here, I replaced the alternator, serpentine belt, and belt tensioner. After changing those parts, the battery tests at 11.2 when the car is in the off position and 14.2 to 14.4 when the car is running. However the battery not charging indicator is still on. I have moderate mechanical skills and limited electrical skills.

Can the forum advise me on other items to check? Car has always been a reliable means of transportation.

Thank you, Joe.
 

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Do you have a separate, plug-in charger? 11.2 is quite low. I would charge the battery at low amperage overnight and recheck. You need over 12VDC with the car off.
 

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Thank you for the information, I do have a charger. I will do that and check it out.
 

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Still need help, I installed a new battery and the warning is still on. While the car was running, I turned on almost all the accessories and the car ran fine, no dimming, stalling, hesitating.

I'm stumped, can anyone offer advice.
 

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Once the car is running, it runs off the alternator. You can technically unplug the battery and still get the 14+ volts from the alternator with the car running.The alternator is a generator, it runs components and keeps the battery charged. If the car is showing that there's no charging going on, it's on the alternator side, be it the alternator itself, the voltage regulator, wiring, bad ground etc.
 

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This is one thing you never ever ever do..

There is no fuse on the battery,there is a disconnect switch..
I never said it was a good idea, just that technically, you could.I was just stating how the flow works and what powers what.
 

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The only other component in the charge system is the ECM, which sends a repeating signal to the alternator to enable its magnetization winding, and monitors the alternator for charging status and possibly load compensation, depending on the motor. This is what triggers the no charge warning.

So the next step is to check the ECM and its connections to the alternator.

At the alternator end these are connections L and F. It's a small plug next to the main wire to the battery. At the ECM end these are on the B connector pins 9 and 16.

If you have 14.2V across the battery with the car running, the battery is charging. The new battery should read 12-12.5V with the car off, if that is the case.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The only other component in the charge system is the ECM, which sends a repeating signal to the alternator to enable its magnetization winding, and monitors the alternator for charging status and possibly load compensation, depending on the motor. This is what triggers the no charge warning.

So the next step is to check the ECM and its connections to the alternator.

At the alternator end these are connections L and F. It's a small plug next to the main wire to the battery. At the ECM end these are on the B connector pins 9 and 16.

If you have 14.2V across the battery with the car running, the battery is charging. The new battery should read 12-12.5V with the car off, if that is the case.
Thank you for this, I will check this for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
This morning it was 36F outside. The battery tested at 12.0 while car was off and 14.4 while running. Battery not charging indicator is still on. I ran a diagnostic check and no codes came up. I could not see any frayed wires but don't know specifically where to look.

Again I'm open to any suggestions, Thank you
 

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If you can confirm that voltage with the car running remains around 14.4 with no accessories on, and does not drop too much (hopefully not below 14.0, and definitely not below 13.0) if you turn on e.g. rear defrost, heater fan to full, high beams and fog lights, seat heat etc., then I'd say that the "not charging" light is not actually indicating that it's not charging. It may still indicate a fault somewhere in the system.

The fact that your battery seems to have a very low voltage might point to some other fault, maybe in the alternator's diodes, that may be putting an excessive drain on the battery with the car off. You could disconnect the battery and leave it overnight and check the battery voltage in the morning. Battery right after shutoff/disconnection should be something like 12.4-12.5V, and in the morning should be 12.3 or better, even if it's gotten quite cold.

By the way, cheap voltmeters are not necessarily super precise, I have a couple that disagree by 0.1 to 0.2 V when checking the same battery. So you might also want to borrow another voltmeter, or get a cheap one to double check the one that you're using.

To troubleshoot further, you should find a local Tech II. It might give you some trouble codes that don't show up in ODB-II.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thank you EdT, appreciate the info. At this point it will be going to my local Saab repair shop.
 
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