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Hi,
Sorry for such large pictures, it was my first time.
I was having some idle problems and found the issue.
The top pic is a unattached hose I found. One end is attached to the tranny right next to the shift cable but the other end was just loose down under the break res.
Anyone know where it goes or is it loose by design.

The lower pic in the very front middle is a ck valve that one end had broken. I temporally zip tied together to see if it was the problem and was happy to find it was.
I looked at Eeuroparts but cannot find the ck valve. Perchance does anyone know its number?

Thanks,
Tom




IMG_1870_LI (2).jpg
IMG_1871.jpg
 

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OK, first picture is the vent for the transmission. It goes nowhere but should point down so no water runs into the transmission

The second photo I'll briefly describe what you should have. This looks like a pre-upgrade (2003 or lower) car so that what I'm describing). It also looks like the PCV system hasn't been updated or has been hacked since some of those lines look strange (the one with he zip tie on the check valve that is going down to under the intake manifold probably to the oil trap is just plain wrong)

  • one vacuum port from the throttle body (the one to the left of the two larger coolant hoses) should go to the electronic vacuum switch on the firewall, I believe the left tap)
  • one vacuum port from the throttle body (the one under the coolant hoses) goes to a check valve that is connected to the PCV connector on the back side of the valve cover via a T that has a much larger hose and a small one for the vacuum
  • From the vacuum switch on the firewall there is a vacuum line that goes through a T that runs from the dual port on the intake manifold, this goes IIRC into the right side of that switch. The third port on that switch runs up to the boost release valve on the charge air tube right at the front of the engine.
  • the other end of the T in the above line goes through another check valve to the heater bypass control valve if you have one
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OK, first picture is the vent for the transmission. It goes nowhere but should point down so no water runs into the transmission

The second photo I'll briefly describe what you should have. This looks like a pre-upgrade (2003 or lower) car so that what I'm describing). It also looks like the PCV system hasn't been updated or has been hacked since some of those lines look strange (the one with he zip tie on the check valve that is going down to under the intake manifold probably to the oil trap is just plain wrong)

  • one vacuum port from the throttle body (the one to the left of the two larger coolant hoses) should go to the electronic vacuum switch on the firewall, I believe the left tap)
  • one vacuum port from the throttle body (the one under the coolant hoses) goes to a check valve that is connected to the PCV connector on the back side of the valve cover via a T that has a much larger hose and a small one for the vacuum
  • From the vacuum switch on the firewall there is a vacuum line that goes through a T that runs from the dual port on the intake manifold, this goes IIRC into the right side of that switch. The third port on that switch runs up to the boost release valve on the charge air tube right at the front of the engine.
  • the other end of the T in the above line goes through another check valve to the heater bypass control valve if you have one
Unclemiltie,

Thank you for the help. I believe all the other vac lines are in good shape.
The car is a 2006 9-5 Aero. The ck valve in the pic is the one I found broken and I did the tyrap fix to see if that was the problem which it was.
What I need is the part number of that ck valve if possible as I cannot seem to find it at Eeuroparts.
 

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Unclemiltie,

Thank you for the help. I believe all the other vac lines are in good shape.
The car is a 2006 9-5 Aero. The ck valve in the pic is the one I found broken and I did the tyrap fix to see if that was the problem which it was.
What I need is the part number of that ck valve if possible as I cannot seem to find it at Eeuroparts.
Ah, the 2006 is different than the pre-upgrade so you'd have to check this against what I wrote since that was pre-upgrade. (I've never owned a post-upgrade Saab so have no idea what that looks like!)
 

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The clip on the charge air pipe that goes into the throttle body isn't a holder for one of the rubber vacuum hoses, either. The hose should just be routed under or over everything in that area. It reminds me of the clip on the side of the radiator overflow tank that gets used way too often as a clip for the hood release cable. It's actually for a cover for the tank that was only used in 1998-1999.
 

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The clip JeremyR mentions holds a rigid plastic pipe to do with brake vac assist I believe. I presume yours is an automatic?
Interesting that the broken NRV solved the idle problem. Does your broken valve actually work? I.e. allow flow toward the throttle body?
My solution used an aluminium valve from eBay. The story’s on here somewhere - search PCV NRV. I believe the new valve comes with the piece of pipe which attaches to the oil catch can down the back of the block. Rather a faff to reach.
 

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5955927 is the part number for the entire hose with the valve. I'd recommend getting it from esaabparts as the price and shipping is cheaper. If you want just the valve, the part number for it on rmeuropean is 150655110.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Jdt9608,
I just went to esaabparts the check valve seems to be a wrong part number. I believe 990033 is the correct number.
One question if I may. Eeuroparts offers that assembly with a metal ck valve, which esaabparts lists, but is out of stock at $19. It is aftermarket but seems like a better option.
Is the connection to the Oil trap separator accessible from the top or is it accessible only from underneath and is it a push on connection?
 

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Yeah, I wasn't sure what the part number was on esaabparts, so that's why I said that's what I found as a part number on rmeuropean. For that hose, it is accessible only from the bottom from what I noticed. I wouldn't recommend the aftermarket hose because the o-rings they use are slightly bigger, causing the hose to make the click noise and seem properly connected when it's not. I tried the aftermarket hose you're looking at and thought it was connected properly, but then started having problems. My father and I thought the problems were related to the turbo we rebuilt going out again, but then he noticed the hose unplugged itself enough to where it looked connected but wasn't. I'm guessing their use of the larger o-rings and all the vibrations, caused the part that clips on to simply slide off.
 
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