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Need help, need aftermarket clutch

3836 Views 14 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  linear777
My clutch took a dump on me the other day and currently my car is out of comission and i am screwed..

I need help and any ideas on good clutches, ive seen a few spec stage 2 plus clutches for $680..

Also what is the easiest way to go about doing it?? drop the entire motor?? or can you sneak just the trans out PLEASE HELP its my daily driver and i need to get this done
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My clutch took a dump on me the other day and currently my car is out of comission and i am screwed..

I need help and any ideas on good clutches, ive seen a few spec stage 2 plus clutches for $680..

Also what is the easiest way to go about doing it?? drop the entire motor?? or can you sneak just the trans out PLEASE HELP its my daily driver and i need to get this done
from my experience working on ecotecs and looking at the undercarriage for the saab...easiest way is to drop the cradle, than unbolt the tranny and remove it...you can leave the engine in, long as you have something to support the driver side while the trans is out...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thats kinda the idea I got too, i just wasnt all that sure if you could sneak the trans out without the motor coming down too.. I have a new steering rack so i need to drop the cradle anyways so that works out too

Thanks
 

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Don't buy SPEC clutches... everyone I've ever spoken to has warned me off them, including the owners of GenuineSAAB.com.

If I remember right, they have stopped selling them now too.

I'm at BSR stage 3 running a new stock clutch, uprated pressure plate from a bristol v8 race car and a new flywheel.

Before you start replacing the clutch, are you sure it's that? It could (like mine) be the flywheel which is shot. Granted, you're better off replacing the clutch at the same time as the flywheel anyway... but be mindful of the fact it could be that too.

It it slips all the time, it's probably the clutch. If it slips sometimes and not others, it's the flywheel. It's a dual mass flywheel, so if you intend replacing it with a solid-single flywheel, you'll need an uprated clutch as well. The stock clutch won't fit a solid-single flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It was slipping on and of at first but now won't even move, i can put it in gear with the clutch out and it barely even bogs the motor but i can hear it spinning, I'm just going cheap and replacing stock clutch and then cleaning up the flywheel I'm thinking, where did you guys order your clutch at?
 

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It was slipping on and of at first but now won't even move, i can put it in gear with the clutch out and it barely even bogs the motor but i can hear it spinning, I'm just going cheap and replacing stock clutch and then cleaning up the flywheel I'm thinking, where did you guys order your clutch at?
I believe you can get a stock cluch kit through saabusaparts
 

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Don't buy SPEC clutches... everyone I've ever spoken to has warned me off them, including the owners of GenuineSAAB.com.

If I remember right, they have stopped selling them now too.
They are still being sold by GS. Strange thing to do, promoting a product and at the same time warn people about it.
 

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If you really want to improve performance you can lose the dual mass flywheel, but the transmission is going to be annoying in first gear in heavy traffic. The dual mass flywheel is designed to absorb energy when varying speed in first gear, eliminating a lot of gear rattle. I have a car with a built/hardened ZF transmission and even WITH the DMF first gear gets very annoying - unnerving in fact (it sounds like a bad U-join) and have also driven one with an aftermarket single-mass flywheel and the difference the DMF makes to reduce noise is amazing. There are folks on the zr1.net who are trying to rebuild the DMF (no longer available for that car - GM sucks!) because of the tremendous noise reduction it has to offer.

Why people replace DMF with single mass flywheels: 1. Massive torque will break a DMF. Not an issue on a Saab. 2. Decrease the moment of inertia by the drivetrain so the engine can rev more quickly. Again, not much of an issue on the Saab because the ECU is your bottleneck.

On the Saab, address problems in this order: ECU, Exhaust, then intake(including turbocharger) and fuel. Until you get significant increases in power, the ONLY thing you might need to worry about is CV joints, and that is if you really flog your car on a regular basis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I bought a cheap clutch.. just going to sell this pile of **** Haha never bought a bigger nightmare in my life.. bought it with 58,000 miles and only been 20,000 miles and its been non stop problems, never again buying a saab. Plus parts are impossible to find.. throwing a cheap clutch in it now!! Almost done
 

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sry to hear it bro I have the same exact car and have had just as many if not more problems than you the only difference is I got lucky bcuz the seller bought the extended warranty but now I also need a new clutch the dick replaced the clutch but without the throwout bearing
 

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Anybody have any idea ABOUT how much it'd cost in labor to put in an after market clutch in the v6?
 

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Granted I don't have a 2.8, for my 2.0 I was quoted $435 for labor and 30 to resurface.
 
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