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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I tried to get the steering rack clamp on(finally), but I cam across a couple issues.

1. Jack hight. I managed to get the car up enough to get a stand set up under the car, but not enough to get the tire off. The hight was enough, though, to get my hand and forearm through the wheel well opening to reach the clamp. How high should the car be before I attempt this install?

2. Clearance. I really could only fit one hand into the space to get to the clamp and could not even get close to seeing the bottom bolt from the wheel well. Aside from taking the engine out, are there any other ways to get this part installed?

3. Wheel problem. Since I tried to get the right wheel off, unsuccessfully, I was concerned if the steering rack would have bent or had another associated with the wheel not being removed. Is it safe to have the wheel still on the car when installing or should the wheel be removed before attempting?

Thoughts, pointers and tips would be greatly appreciated. Plus, if Nick has any ideas, that would be cool too.
 

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It is a tight fit but I put mine on in my driveway with the car on the ground. Just go from on top. It might help if you take the cover off the top of the engine(the one that covers the throttle body). The only thing that gave a hassle was getting the brace part bolted up, you have to have one arm in the wheel well and the other in the engine bay.
 

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KC9-3SE said:
Well, I tried to get the steering rack clamp on(finally), but I cam across a couple issues.

1. Jack hight. I managed to get the car up enough to get a stand set up under the car, but not enough to get the tire off. The hight was enough, though, to get my hand and forearm through the wheel well opening to reach the clamp. How high should the car be before I attempt this install?

2. Clearance. I really could only fit one hand into the space to get to the clamp and could not even get close to seeing the bottom bolt from the wheel well. Aside from taking the engine out, are there any other ways to get this part installed?

3. Wheel problem. Since I tried to get the right wheel off, unsuccessfully, I was concerned if the steering rack would have bent or had another associated with the wheel not being removed. Is it safe to have the wheel still on the car when installing or should the wheel be removed before attempting?

Thoughts, pointers and tips would be greatly appreciated. Plus, if Nick has any ideas, that would be cool too.
You're looking for this?
http://www.ericsaabsite.com/Upgrades/SS/MPBrace.html
 

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You dont really need to jack up the car to do this, a little bit of hard work to get the back part of the clamp on the steering rack can be a bit difficult. I didnt take the tire off, but turned the wheel so the hole where the bolt goes is exposed. Also some grease on the clamp will work nicely.
 

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I just installed the steering rack clamp and brace kit yesterday (Taliaferro's) on my wife's 2001 9-3 SE convertible. No need to remove the wheel and it can all be done from above. In my case though, I did put it up on ramps in the front. I did the lower clamp collared nut from below, but it can be done from above. Definitely remove the plastic cover on the intake side (very easy to remove). I turned my wheels slightly to allow my hand to get into the wheel well for the nut and washer that go on the bolt attaching the brace to the strut tower. Loosely install all the pieces and fasteners before tightening and torquing everything down.

All in all it took me about 20 minutes or so for the clamp/brace. I also did a 22 mm anti-roll bar on the rear and a 6 point subframe brace up front. Man what a difference this all made!
 

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baysailor said:
I just installed the steering rack clamp and brace kit yesterday (Taliaferro's) on my wife's 2001 9-3 SE convertible. No need to remove the wheel and it can all be done from above. In my case though, I did put it up on ramps in the front. I did the lower clamp collared nut from below, but it can be done from above. Definitely remove the plastic cover on the intake side (very easy to remove). I turned my wheels slightly to allow my hand to get into the wheel well for the nut and washer that go on the bolt attaching the brace to the strut tower. Loosely install all the pieces and fasteners before tightening and torquing everything down.

All in all it took me about 20 minutes or so for the clamp/brace. I also did a 22 mm anti-roll bar on the rear and a 6 point subframe brace up front. Man what a difference this all made!

This is exactly how I did it, just turn the wheel, and maybe get a friend to help you get the arm in position with the wheel well bolt. It isn't a difficult install. Absolutely worth it.

I did the 1" ARB and 6 point brace too. You aren't kidding about how big of a difference it all made, Its like a totally new car.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So, do I still need to have a 19mm socket head? It seems like that bolt just slides in with no torquing at all.

I'm gonna give it another try real soon. Hopefully I can get it in before it gets to late. Well, not that 2 in the afternoon is late. :roll:
 

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KC9-3SE said:
So, do I still need to have a 19mm socket head? It seems like that bolt just slides in with no torquing at all.
Yes, the 19 mm socket is for the collared nut the goes on the bottom of the clamp and will be needed when it is time to tighten everything down. Make sure the larger hole is in the bottom position for both the back piece and the front piece of the clamp, this is what the collar of the nut slips into. This is why I did this from below. I was able to just reach up, align the back and front of the collar and finger tighten the collared nut onto the lower stud.

It sounds like you don't have the stud in the lower hole on the clamp and pack piece.

Here is the order of assembly I used:
  1. From above, slipped back piece of clamp between firewall and rack making sure the larger hole was at the bottom and over the stud.
  2. From above, mated top of clamp over the rack and flush with backside of clamp making sure larger hole was oriented to the bottom.
  3. From below, installed bottom collared nut and finger tightened.
  4. From above, installed top bolt through end of brace and into top of the clamp. Finger tightened with socket and short extension.
  5. From above, installed small bolt through the outer end of the brace and into the strut tower. Finger tightened to nylon locking portion of nut.
  6. Tightened and properly torqued lower nut.
  7. Tightened and properly torqued upper bolt.
  8. Tightened and properly torqued outer bolt/nut.
  9. Drive and enjoy!
 

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One other thing to keep in mind, when you're fitting the new brace in, try not to pull the steering rack too much, it ahs enough play in it to fit the brace in without really yanking on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, I finally got it installed after about 2 hours of cursing and bending ways my body shouldn't really bend.

I didn't jack it this time, and did manage to get in completely installed, with a new 19mm socket. I found that to get the big nut installed without having to get angry was to bring the top part of it off of the backing part of the brace, by just like 1/2 inch, shove in the 19mm bolt, finger tighten it, then use the socket wrench to get it on more secure. My other problem was the bolt coming through the wheel well. I was originally trying to install it with the bolt through the brace into the wheel well. That didn't work so I had the bolt put through the well first and then threaded through the brace. Was the washer supposed to be with the bolt head on the outside of the wheel well or was it supposed to "sandwich" the brace part in the engine bay? I did the former, so hopefully that was correct. I torqued the top bolt to 18 ft-lb, and the bottom to as much as I could get it. My torque wrench didn't signify when it was at 18 for the 19mm bolt, but it was definitely very solid, flush and secure. I torque it up tomorrow should I get the time. After everything was installed, everything was secure, no flex, no movement whatsoever.

On to the test drive. First off I noticed a "knocking" sound when the steering wheel was at nearly full lock either left or right. Once up to normal driving speeds and angles of turns, the noise was not present. One thing that took a while for me to sense was the lack of vibration in the steering wheel. Before, with the stock bushing, the steering wheel had this vibration that just made me frown because I expected the car to be much more refined that that. But with the install, this vibration all but disappeared. Now only a computer or a really anal retentive co-pilot would notice. The car felt a bit more spot on in the turns that before, feeling more precise without extra effort needed to make the same rate of turn as before. One big difference I could feel was the large reduction in torque steer. I floored it a couple times, halfway through a turn and once at a straight heading. The former made the car feel as if it was about the kick the tail out, while the latter tracked nearly 100% straight and true. I was very suprised, and just plain grateful for this improvement. It makes me wonder why Saab didn't make this enhancement earlier in it's lifespan. Not only would the press think of it more favorably, but that would also consequentially, allow Saab to sell more cars. I do have the upgraded ARB from GS, so these upgrades surely make the car much more refined.

Overall, I did expect upgrades to the car to make an almost night and day difference, which I didn't feel unless I floored it. My driving consists of alot of highway mileage with a bit of city driving. So, if I just focus on that, then overall, I was slightly disappointed. If I included the added safety benefits of better control during full throttle(for evasive actions and fun), then this upgrade it worth every single penny. I'm happy with the complete overall benefits, but for the purposes I need, it made the driving experience just a bit more refined, thus making it feel like the premium car it should have been in the first place.
 

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KC9-3SE said:
Overall, I did expect upgrades to the car to make an almost night and day difference, which I didn't feel unless I floored it. My driving consists of alot of highway mileage with a bit of city driving. So, if I just focus on that, then overall, I was slightly disappointed. If I included the added safety benefits of better control during full throttle(for evasive actions and fun), then this upgrade it worth every single penny. I'm happy with the complete overall benefits, but for the purposes I need, it made the driving experience just a bit more refined, thus making it feel like the premium car it should have been in the first place.
Congradulations on getting it installed!

The more horsepower your car has, the more dramatic the effect. Yours having 185 HP (per signature), it will be slightly less of a benefit, but a benefit non the less. In my case (well my wife's since this is her car), it was very dramatic, but I did a 22 mm ARB and 6 point brace at the same time. Also, her car has 205 HP and is a convertible (much softer chassis).

We tend to drive a bit spirited too! :cheesy:
 

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baysailor said:
Congradulations on getting it installed!

The more horsepower your car has, the more dramatic the effect. Yours having 185 HP (per signature), it will be slightly less of a benefit, but a benefit non the less. In my case (well my wife's since this is her car), it was very dramatic, but I did a 22 mm ARB and 6 point brace at the same time. Also, her car has 205 HP and is a convertible (much softer chassis).

We tend to drive a bit spirited too! :cheesy:
We shouldn't talk about how spirited I can get. ;)
 
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