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Discussion Starter #1
About to crank by car after 6 months of slowly doing the head gasket. When I went to actually remove the head there was a small diameter hose that was still connected and I had to quickly cut it because the head was so heavy. Like a moron I didn't look to see what it went to (plus I was so happy to finally get the head off). Now that everything is back together I'm wondering what the heck it went to. It wasn't a vacuum hose (I checked all of those) but it was the same diameter. I realize this is pretty idiotic but wondering if anyone might know which one it is. It was physically connected to the head.
 

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The only thing that is the same diameter as a vacuum hose is a vacuum hose.... there are no vacuum hoses connected to the head, the only hose at all is the coolant outlet from the thermostat. The valve cover has the PCV hoses, but that would have been removed long before the head.

It would help to know WHERE from the head you cut this thing....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well she's alive exhaust still smells like burning coolant but I'm assuming that's some residual. Keeping my fingers crossed.
 

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There's a hose that goes from the blow off / diverter controller on the firewall to the manifold. Coud be that. Photo of where it's coming from would pin it down either way.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I appreciate the responses. I did have the head checked out by a machine shop (cleaned, resurfaced). Unfortunately I had to bring it to them twice as I had read on Townsend's site about using an old head bolt (cut the top off) as a guide pin to place the head. I didn't realize that if you don't line it up perfectly it's going to scratch the heck out of the head. I had 3 scratches and although they weren't extremely deep, I could definitely catch my fingernail on them.

I'm assuming based on the comments that it's simply a vacuum line I missed. I'm waiting for a new PVC check valve to come in the mail and then the car should be fully driveable. This thing has been a complete lemon since I bought it 1.5 years ago (radiator, fuel pump, head gasket). Coming from 3 pre-GM Saabs that I had almost zero issues with it has been an adjustment. But like any car you just have to keep up with the maintenance.
 

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This thing has been a complete lemon since I bought it 1.5 years ago (radiator, fuel pump, head gasket). Coming from 3 pre-GM Saabs that I had almost zero issues with it has been an adjustment. But like any car you just have to keep up with the maintenance.
Not to digress, but I wouldn't call that a "lemon"... perhaps the head gasket is a little much but for cars made in the last 25 years, it's actually not half bad. Very few cars have the reliability they had "back in the day". Japanese cars still tend to be reliable with major components, but check out the engine and transmission problems in some of the "reliable" brands when they reach 80K plus miles. The world has changed.
 

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I scratched the head on my 9-5 while putting it back on. I had to take the head back to the shop that cleaned and planed it, and they didn't think it was an issue because it wasn't in an area that sealed anything. I hadn't heard of the trick of using a cut-off bolt for alignment, but I may do that the next time I have to take a head off.
 

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The dowels are what do the scratching. If you don't drop the head down exactly on top of the dowels, they'll scrape the head as you figure out exactly where it needs to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I think the key is not to slide it as you are trying to get the head into place.. A few extra minutes to make sure everything is pulled back as close to the firewall as possible (using bungee cords, zip ties, etc.) goes a long way. Also something I didn’t realize is that you’ll continue to smell the horrible burning coolant smell the first 2-3 times you run the car. It gets progressively better and eventually goes away.
 

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It really depends on how careful you are with fluids and cleanliness during the process. If you properly drain everything, and quickly mop up any fluid spills during, there shouldnt be any smells when it first starts. For me there is usually a little burn off of penetrating oil used on the exhaust manifold hardware, but it's gone within 15m then all is well.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I’m not sure how it’s possible to not be careful with the fluids. Oil and coolant are only poured in one place. It’s not like i mistook the cylinders for the coolant reservoir and filled it to the brim. You can mop all you want and that will have nothing to do with coolant fumes exiting your tailpipe.
 
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