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I just did Drunkie's fix for old photobucket photos. You can put and extension on Chrome so you can see the photos.

1. GO TO THE 3 vertical dots in the upper right
2. click on EXTENSIONS
3. GO down to the button click more extensions
4. type in photobucket extensions
4. add hotfix and other fixes

now you can see the old pix
 

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What is the status of this project?

I finally stumbled on it once again, so glad I did; I was looking for the details on the metal ball linkages you used. I am assuming you bought them from McMaster? Can you share part numbers?

I like what you did but I wonder if there is a better source for the ends such as these:



These are listed under "ball socket end fittings with safety clip for gas springs" and would not need to be welded. I'm not opposed to welding in a threaded connection, but some people might not have access to a welder.
 

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Good to hear from you. Those will not work.....not the right size thread and way too much play. The ball fits in loosely and the metal wire clip keeps it from falling out.

PM me. I do have some parts and can send you a kit of parts. You do have to weld the bracket.

I would be happy to help you.
 

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I am going to update this old thread of mine. All the mechanicals are done including the new trans with Quaif diff. I am getting about 285 HP out of the motor and all the mechanicals are now just great All the major bodywork is done. We are doing final prep for paint this weekend. I will dig up some good photos to post.

I had naming cars, but Walter Wong's guys who swap the engine and trans from my donor car called it KONISEG.....you can see why below. I hae been calling it red Aero. I actually found out the PO name was THE RED SLED.......I met the owners brother in a parking lot in Malibu a year ago and we have become friends, so I have some good back history.

in the photo be low you can see some pre bodywork damage.

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Ccar wash day. Mary Ann's pristine 2001 Aero wagon in the foreground. Boxster to left......been sold recently. Restored, repaint for my friends widow and flipped it. KONISEG and 1973 911 in the back
 

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I am going to update this old thread of mine. All the mechanicals are done including the new trans with Quaif diff. I am getting about 285 HP out of the motor and all the mechanicals are now just great All the major bodywork is done. We are doing final prep for paint this weekend. I will dig up some good photos to post.

I hate naming cars, but Walter Wong's guys who swap the engine and trans from my donor car called it KONISEG.....you can see why below. I have been calling it red Aero. I actually found out the PO name was THE RED SLED.......I met the owners brother in a parking lot in Malibu a year ago and we have become friends, so I have some good back history.

in the photo below you can see some pre bodywork damage.

View attachment 270688 View attachment 270689

Car wash day. Mary Ann's pristine 2001 Aero wagon in the foreground. Boxster to left......been sold recently. Restored, repaint for my friends widow and flipped it. KONISEG and 1973 911 in the back
 

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The RED SLED was a parts car that Jeff Benson had in NM. He has and independent Saab shop there. The motor was blown, no head on the motor and a few parts can been cannibalized, window, blower motor, some heater motors etc. NO RUST but dents and dings and some gravel rash [PO lived on a dirt road]. I had a 2001 sedan with an exotic motor that I had built that was totalled by ins. so I had a great parts car. I spent a few month transfering parts over to the red car. Some wiring had been cut out so I had to redo that too.

Here is photo of the rear body work just before final finishing. the grey primer is Acid Etch primer where we went to bare metal. The deck lid was really wrinkled badly. We will go over this again this weekend and prime/seal in a red primer. The top of the lid was dented on the transport truck that got the car here from Albuquerque. I have a new factory rear spoiler to go on here too. My plan is to paint the Aero letters body color befor sticking them on.
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The exhaust is BSR cat back. The rear muffler is not BSR, but a nice big fat "glasspack"

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The hood was gouged by the transport company too. That has been put back in shape and cleaned up. You can see some of the road rash on the front fender. I will remove the bumper and fix that hole and refinish I have all the grilles and bullet fog lights now fitted with LEDs......the head lights are LEDs as well. I redid the main grill with mesh and painted the plastic chrome black. You can just see the red air horns in the center grille. Much louder and more annoying than stock.
270693


This corner had a big dent where the grey primer is. I managed to pull it out with glue on paintless dent removal tools. Saved me taing out the interior paneling to hammer it. Actuall saved a lot of time and effort and there is almost no filler here. the red puttin is 3M putty sufacer. All of this needs finish sanding and priming.

I will remove the rear bumper and clean it up and prime and use flex agent, and paint it off the body.
 

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The RED SLED was a parts car that Jeff Benson had in NM. He has and independent Saab shop there. The motor was blown, no head on the motor and a few parts can been cannibalized, window, blower motor, some heater motors etc. NO RUST but dents and dings and some gravel rash [PO lived on a dirt road]. I had a 2001 sedan with an exotic motor that I had built that was totalled by ins. so I had a great parts car. I spent a few month transfering parts over to the red car. Some wiring had been cut out so I had to redo that too.

Here is photo of the rear body work just before final finishing. the grey primer is Acid Etch primer where we went to bare metal. The deck lid was really wrinkled badly. We will go over this again this weekend and prime/seal in a red primer. The top of the lid was dented on the transport truck that got the car here from Albuquerque. I have a new factory rear spoiler to go on here too. My plan is to paint the Aero letters body color befor sticking them on.
View attachment 270691

The exhaust is BSR cat back. The rear muffler is not BSR, but a nice big fat "glasspack".....it sounds wonderful. I am going to drop the tip down about an inch or so when I remove the bumper for repair. It is nicely tucked in, but the angle is wrong.

View attachment 270692

The hood was gouged by the transport company too. That has been put back in shape and cleaned up. You can see some of the road rash on the front fender. I will remove the bumper and fix that hole and refinish I have all the grilles and bullet fog lights now fitted with LEDs......the head lights are LEDs as well. I redid the main grill with mesh and painted the plastic chrome black. You can just see the red air horns in the center grille. Much louder and more annoying than stock.
View attachment 270693

This corner had a big dent where the grey primer is. I managed to pull it out with glue on paintless dent removal tools. Saved me taing out the interior paneling to hammer it. Actuall saved a lot of time and effort and there is almost no filler here. the red puttin is 3M putty sufacer. All of this needs finish sanding and priming.

I will remove the rear bumper and clean it up and prime and use flex agent, and paint it off the body.
 

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514 Posts
The RED SLED was a parts car that Jeff Benson had in NM. He has and independent Saab shop there. The motor was blown, no head on the motor and a few parts can been cannibalized, window, blower motor, some heater motors etc. NO RUST but dents and dings and some gravel rash [PO lived on a dirt road]. I had a 2001 sedan with an exotic motor that I had built that was totalled by ins. so I had a great parts car. I spent a few month transfering parts over to the red car. Some wiring had been cut out so I had to redo that too.

Here is photo of the rear body work just before final finishing. the grey primer is Acid Etch primer where we went to bare metal. The deck lid was really wrinkled badly. We will go over this again this weekend and prime/seal in a red primer. The top of the lid was dented on the transport truck that got the car here from Albuquerque. I have a new factory rear spoiler to go on here too. My plan is to paint the Aero letters body color befor sticking them on.
View attachment 270691

The exhaust is BSR cat back. The rear muffler is not BSR, but a nice big fat "glasspack"

View attachment 270692

The hood was gouged by the transport company too. That has been put back in shape and cleaned up. You can see some of the road rash on the front fender. I will remove the bumper and fix that hole and refinish I have all the grilles and bullet fog lights now fitted with LEDs......the head lights are LEDs as well. I redid the main grill with mesh and painted the plastic chrome black. You can just see the red air horns in the center grille. Much louder and more annoying than stock.
View attachment 270693

This corner had a big dent where the grey primer is. I managed to pull it out with glue on paintless dent removal tools. Saved me taking out the interior paneling to hammer it. Actuall saved a lot of time and effort and there is almost no filler here. the red putty is 3M putty sufacer. All of this needs finish sanding and priming.

I will remove the rear bumper and clean it up and prime and use flex agent, and paint it off the body.
 

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I have Built a 3" inlet tube system for this car. Bought a box of tubing and silicon connectors and clamps from eBay for like $60. I TIG welded a mount for the temp/pressure sender onto the side. Also bought a mount for the boost valve. Here are some photos:
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3 RD BRAKE LIGHT PROBLEM.
I had the LED on my 2000 resled die. I priced the new led strip $51.42 and of course back ordered. You can also buy the whole assembly for 4139.68 and of course that is back ordered too. So I came up with the brilliant idea to replace the strip with an eBay led strip. Most of these run on 12vdc so It could work well. I found one the right length for $4.00. I installed it in the light assembly and found that it was even brighter than the OEM part.
270730
 

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I put it all back together and was very happy with my work. But this I got a brake light out SID warning every time I hit the brakes! I guess the new strip did not have the right load and the computer felt it was not there!! I figured I would add in some resistors to see where the lights would work, but the warning would not go off. I have a resitance box that has 4 knowbs on it and lets u dial up whatever your need from 1 ohm to thousands. I started at 2 ohms and that did not work. When i got to 6 ohms the warning stopped coming and the lights worked well. Same at 8 ohms. I dug around in my electrical parts and found a 10 ohm resistor. I pushed its wires into the connector in the rear and that worked. It was hard to keep it in place so I stripped some insulation and soldered it in place. You can see this in the second photo below. The resistor is smal and hard to see. I put red "liquid tape" on the = side and black on the - side. Now it works like a charm. The lights are brighter than OEM and the repair was $5.00 usd.
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I put it all back together and was very happy with my work. But this I got a brake light out SID warning every time I hit the brakes! I guess the new strip did not have the right load and the computer felt it was not there!! I figured I would add in some resistors to see where the lights would work, but the warning would not go off. I have a resitance box that has 4 knowbs on it and lets u dial up whatever your need from 1 ohm to thousands. I started at 2 ohms and that did not work. When i got to 6 ohms the warning stopped coming and the lights worked well. Same at 8 ohms. I dug around in my electrical parts and found a 10 ohm resistor. I pushed its wires into the connector in the rear and that worked. It was hard to keep it in place so I stripped some insulation and soldered it in place. You can see this in the second photo below. The resistor is smal and hard to see. I put red "liquid tape" on the = side and black on the - side. Now it works like a charm. The lights are brighter than OEM and the repair was $5.00 usd.
View attachment 270731 View attachment 270732
 

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3 RD BRAKE LIGHT PROBLEM.
I had the LED on my 2000 Redsled die. I priced the new led strip $51.42 and of course back ordered. You can also buy the whole assembly for $139.68 and of course that is back ordered too. So I came up with the brilliant idea to replace the strip with an eBay led strip. Most of these run on 12vdc so It could work well. I found one the right length for $4.00. I installed it in the light assembly and found that it was even brighter than the OEM part. View attachment 270730
 
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