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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
Condenser

I have an A/C condenser with a bent line......not sure if it is bad, but I suspect it is leaking. I am installing a new one in that it is only $100 USD and worth doing it now. Here is the old one. I am pulling it up from the top. You can see the bent line in the middle of the shot.



this is the receiver/dryer/ resevoir. It is a good practice to replace this anytime the system is open, as it has a dessicant bag in it to keep the system dry. the in and out fittings and tubes have been removed.



The condenser attaches to the front of the intercooler. The driver side bracket is broken. I will fix it with epoxy and fiberglass and some aluminum sheet.



Here is the condenser end:



I will pressure test the intercooler, but I think it is good.

Here is the repair to the broken bracket. I used super glue to hold it in place and then I put quick dry epoxy and fiberglass strips over it for reinforcement......it is not attractive, but after curing a day it is very strong I will redrill the hole and add the nut clip that the 6mm bolt fastens to in order to mount the condenser.

 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
Driver door

The driver door mechanicals are done. New motor for window, new door lock, and the mirror has been swapped with the donor car.

Everything is cleaned and lubed.
The photo shows the vapor barrier being installed. It is important to put this molded foam barrier in place to keep moisture out of the door panel and the car. It is glued in place with a rubbery bead of sealant, but it does dry out. I used clear silicone sealant to glue it back, but need the orange masking tape to hold things in place until the silicone sets.....a couple of hours should do it and then the tape comes off and the panels go on.

This is the barrier from the donor car that has been removed a few times to fix the rollers.....it is not in good shape to say the least, but it should work OK.

h
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
Wiper mechanism cover

The cover over the wiper mechanism is black plastic with a rubber seal bonded into the edge.

With a little time it get very faded to grey and the seal on the edge that touches the windshield. cracks and breaks and looks pretty bad.

Here is the edge:



It looks pretty grey in this photo:



I trimmed the ragged edge with a razor and will install a "U" shaped seal later. This does not seal water from going in.....it is designed to go in and drain off through a drain in the trough below.

This is the first coat of Rustoleum Satin black 7777 from Home Depot. This is very good stuff and goes on well.



I will put on a few more coats and let it dry a few days. Looks much much better.
 

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Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
J16 connection on ecu connector

While I have good access to it, I am going to preemptively fix the J16 connection in the ECU harness.

J16 junction or connector is the ground for the 2 O2 sensors. One for the front and one the rear. Both ground wires join into one and got to a pin on the ECU connector. You get a P0134 error that indicates a bad O2 sensor, but very often the real problem is a bad connection in J16. the problem has to do with the crimped junction getting some microscopic corrosion because the 2 metals are different. The signal here is 0 to 1 volt so the connection has to be great.

I had this happen on 2 of the 5 Aeros that I work on. The connection is crimped, then sealed with a sealant and then covered with shrink tubing.

I am going to cut it out and solder it and use shrink tubing to cover it. this should fix it forever.

In this photo you can see the 2 black junctions. J16 is the upper one under the zip tie. I will cut the zip tie and get more access........I will post some more photos as I fix it:



This is what J16 looks like. I have no idea if this one is bad, but I am batting 500 on these so I am going to repair it while I am here.



In this photo I have cut it out and twisted the ground wires together prior to soldering. The large black cables in the background are the 2 leads from each 02 sensor.



I have soldered the 3 wires together:



the shrink tubing has been installed and heated so it shrinks around the wire junction. I will put some sealant on both ends, and zip tie the harness bundle back together.

 

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Discussion Starter #46
Nothing very exciting today. Had to take out the heater/A/C blower out of the donor car and service it before going into the red wagon. Had to take the wiper arms off and remove the wiper mechanism and take out the blower motor.

This is the best tool to pull the wiper arms. Once you take off the 15mm nuts, you have to get the arms off.....they are stubborn and this tool fits very well.



Here is the wiper mechanism.....4 main bolts and it comes out. I did vacuum up all that dirt in there!!!



That dirty thing in the middle is the blower motor. 4 screws and a couple of clips and it comes out. I will post some more photos of the fan. I will clean it up and replace the brushes. This is a brush DC motor and after 15 years and 200,000 miles the brushes are almost gone. I bought a brush kit for less than $10 USD and will replace the brushes tomorrow and get it ready to go into the red wagon.

 

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
A/c heater blower

I hope I am not boring you with these details of this project. I hope the information is good for some of you. As you can see i have to install a few parts on my red wagon from a donor car, and where necessary I am repairing the parts and/or making improvements before they go in.

I have been working on the fan blower. These run almost continuously in thes cars and they do have brushes and bearings. The brushes wear out and the bearing need lubing. I decided to change the brushes and freshen the lube before putting the fan and motor back in.

Here is the motor removed.



The brushes are not too bad....but when they get to the end they can ruin the commutator and the motor. These have about 20% left:



The new brushes are carbon and they sometimes need to be customized or resized a bit to fit. I used emory paper to do this.



New brushes going in. Wire has to be cut on the old ones and soldered to the new.



Here is the new brush wire soldered to the old. You can have an electric motor shop do this for you if you don't want to get into it. OR you could buy a new one at eEuroparts and other places for about $100.00.



 

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You work really hard during the days. So keep on the good work.

So well done, dude. :)


Have not so much to say. But will just give you some response. Not to much of that on this forum.

So to all of you out there. Wake up and give him some response and feedback. :nono;
 

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Discussion Starter #49
You work really hard during the days. So keep on the good work.

So well done, dude. :)


Have not so much to say. But will just give you some response. Not to much of that on this forum.

So to all of you out there. Wake up and give him some response and feedback. :nono;
Thanks for your comments Positiv.......We are not to the shiny part yet, but I just thought I would report on the journey and maybe help with the knowledge base on Saab 9-5s.

I appreciate your support.
 

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Good stuff. I'm actually looking to redo my blower motor before the winter hits so I am glad to see someone doing a tutorial ;ol;

Removing those wiper arms is the most difficult task IMO and I have been unsuccessful so far but I have not tried a puller like the one shown here. I see Walmart of all places caries them so I'll give it a try...

Also, is that J16 connection a MY specific issue or is it possible for all 9-5's? I've never had any o2 issues on my 06 pushing 200K.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Good stuff. I'm actually looking to redo my blower motor before the winter hits so I am glad to see someone doing a tutorial ;ol;

Removing those wiper arms is the most difficult task IMO and I have been unsuccessful so far but I have not tried a puller like the one shown here. I see Walmart of all places caries them so I'll give it a try...

Also, is that J16 connection a MY specific issue or is it possible for all 9-5's? I've never had any o2 issues on my 06 pushing 200K.
blower motor is every easy once you get it out. Yes that puller is great. The arm just pops out. Many auto stores carry it....even Walmart!

I have done the J16 fix on my wife's 2003 my son's 2004 wagon and a 2001. So I am not sure. BUT I have no information that the factory ever fixed it. the warranty is usually up by the time you get the problem!

It has gotten to the point when I don't change and 02 sensor....I just fix J16 and the does it.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Door lock

I took a few days off because I had problems with driver door lock being jammed. I put in a new lock because the old one was missing. The door worked for maybe 10 cycles and then jammed. I tried everything.....then I decided to take the lock out of the donor car and study how to open it. I cut the bottom part of the plastic lock cover off and found a pin that when pushed down would release the lock.

I figured out where I could drill a hole in the stuck lock and insert a screw driver to release it.....and it worked.




The pin is the shiny part in the middle. Pushing it downward will release the lock.



Here I marked where to drill.



This is the drill I used. It is tight in there and this worked. I drilled a small hole to start and a 1/4 hole in the end. Inserting a small screw driver and leveraging down did the trick and the door released.

 

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Discussion Starter #54
Good stuff. I'm actually looking to redo my blower motor before the winter hits so I am glad to see someone doing a tutorial ;ol;

Removing those wiper arms is the most difficult task IMO and I have been unsuccessful so far but I have not tried a puller like the one shown here. I see Walmart of all places caries them so I'll give it a try...

Also, is that J16 connection a MY specific issue or is it possible for all 9-5's? I've never had any o2 issues on my 06 pushing 200K.
THANKS....the tool I used for the wiper arms is the OTC "Stinger series" #4676 www.otctools.com FYI
 

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The cover over the wiper mechanism is black plastic with a rubber seal bonded into the edge.

With a little time it get very faded to grey and the seal on the edge that touches the windshield. cracks and breaks and looks pretty bad.

Here is the edge:



It looks pretty grey in this photo:



I trimmed the ragged edge with a razor and will install a "U" shaped seal later. This does not seal water from going in.....it is designed to go in and drain off through a drain in the trough below.

This is the first coat of Rustoleum Satin black 7777 from Home Depot. This is very good stuff and goes on well.



I will put on a few more coats and let it dry a few days. Looks much much better.
Do you have pics of how this turned out and what U shaped seal you ended up using? I really need to replace mine too.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
The paint job came out well, but I have not sourced a seal yet. the cowl cover is not back on the car.

I am deep into swapping the the stepper motors and other motors from the donor car to the red wagon. All the motor were cannibalized from the wagon. I have been upside down under the dash taking stuff out.......and the same putting it back in the wagon. At least I am getting very knowledgeable on the hardware on the heater box.

The passenger side was easy because of taking out the glove compartment. I had to take the driver's seat our to get to the LH motor and the heater fan control unit and harness.

I will try to post photos and more information.
 

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Looking good. Let us know what you find for a seal. Seems they are no longer available and I've been trying to find a solution to this as well. Hard to find a seal that has a rubber guard on it like the factory one and will fit the channel.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Looking good. Let us know what you find for a seal. Seems they are no longer available and I've been trying to find a solution to this as well. Hard to find a seal that has a rubber guard on it like the factory one and will fit the channel.
I just trimmed off the rubber. I don't see a need for any trim on this part. It does not seal anything.

I have made quite a bit progress on the project and will try to post photos this weekend when I have time.

I have enlisted the help of Walter Wong's shop, THE RIGHT SOLUTION in Culver City CA. Walter runs a great shop and he has done lots of Saab work for me. I like to do my own stuff, but I am maintaining 4 Aeros for the family, so I use Walter's shop for lots of work I don't have time to do or need a lift and expertise I may not have.

William and Hugo have spearheaded my project. I towed my red Aero Wagon and the donor car over to them about a month ago. They have swapped the trans and engine, and replaced the front sub frame bushings. The donor car engine is a balanced and blueprinted Aero motor with the balance shafts removed and forged pistons among other mods....more details on this later.

I also supplied new braking parts, drilled and slotted disks, stainless steel brake hoses, emergency brake rebuild parts, master cylinder etc..

I had them install a sport exhaust system with new rubber mounts, clamps and gaskets.

We also swapped the suspension over. I had a nice set of Koni sports on the Donor car.

Even though we though the 2000 and 2001 would be quite interchangeable, they guys had some problems with the harness. They had to use the 2001 harness from the center of the firewall connector to the ECU. This was because the inlet temp sensor and map sensor were separate on the 2000, and one unified unit on the 2001.

Later we found another glitch when it was found that the pin for the clutch pedal was moved from #3 position to #2. This caused a no start that took lots of wiring diagram study to find.

At this point the car runs and the guys are detailing the rest of the mechanicals.

Photos and details coming
 

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I have not posted in a while. I had trouble with my login because our email URL was hacked and we had to get another email address. This stopped me from updating my password.

Maybe I will get my old "dlague" log in back some day.

Any way the red Saab wagon has been on the road for several months and running well.

Actually it is running great and shifting well and braking spectacularly....

More on that later.

Maybe I will start the thread over again seeing that all my photos are gone because we relied on photo bucket.

Mechanically the 2000 red wagon is great and running well.

I put a good set of BBS wheels on the car with some fresh rubber and have driven it a few thousand miles.

Now I am on to body work.

Got to start smoothing out a few things and start priming some of the area.

Will start the narrative again and provide some photos.
 
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