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Discussion Starter #23
I put in a few more hours yesterday on the red wagon. First thing I did was to remove that AWFUL heater by pass valve. They leak all the time and need to be replaced and they don't do much......they just stop hot water from going into the heater box when the a/c is on the LO setting.

It was fun to take out out and throw the whole thing into the trash.



In the center of the next photo is where the heater lines attach to the heater box at the firewall. To the left of the 2 pipes is the a/c expansion valve. It has thsoe 2 black a/c lines attached.

Today I will remove this and flush out the heat exchanger and put on a new expansion valve. It is great to do this while it is so easy to get to......a lot tougher with the new engine in place. I want to get the A/C system in good shape before I put in the engine because it is so much easier to get to all the hardware. the plan is to replace the expansion valve, Condenser and receiver/dryer and all the "O" rings.



The red wagon had a burnt valve so you can see the head is gone and a few other parts are missing on this engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
This is the Aero engine that will go into the red wagon.



We will pull the engine and the trans from my old donor 95 Aero.



I spent a lot of money on this engine a few years ago and it is a really solid Aero motor. About 280 HP in stage 1 tune.

Currently this has a stage 1 tune by John at JZW. The engine was totally blueprinted a couple of years ago. The black and head was totally disassembled and machined. Crank was balanced, all bearings replaced. Wosner forged pistons installed.

Balance shafts were removed and the oil passages were plugged. Of course all seals were new.

Head has all new exhaust valves and valve guides and complete machining.

The flywheel is a SPEC SS95A from genuinesaab.com and is a full aluminum flywheel with replaceable friction area. This reduces the rotating mass quite a bit and allows for quicker building of revs.

CPS, DIC, all sensors and the starter and alternator are new. should be good for many years of motoring.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Headlights

I have always liked the look of the early headlights with the H7 bulbs....but getting good light out of them is a challenge. If you put in higher wattage bulbs the connectors melt.....I tired HID after market, but they were noisy in static induced the the electrical system.

I have new generation LED bulbs in my wife's 2001 95 Aero wagon and I like them.

This is what I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/282020684993?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Key here is the low profile so that it fits under the stock cap.

The headlights in the red saab had pitted lenses and the driver's side was cracked.



I bought new lenses on line and installed them by removing the clips and putting in the new lens.



The bulbs are easy to install. remove the H7 bulb. Remove the sleeve from the LED and put in the the socket where the H7 was and use the clip to hold it in. Next put in the LED and lock it in place.







connect the wires. red wire goes to "+" black wire to "-" marked on the plug.




The LEDs had a built in fan for cooling so I drilled some hole in my cover to let the air flow out. I am assuming this is a good idea. We will see.

 

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Discussion Starter #26
ARE THEY BRIGHT??? HOW DOES IT WORK?

Well they are rated at 4000 lumens which is like 3X brighter than stock. I know from my wife's car that they are awesome. Here is some bench testing:



 

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I'd be more curious on the longevity, do they last as long as normal halogens or HIDs?

Cutting holes in that cover allows the possibility for dirt to get into the housing and coat the inside of the lens. It probably wont be nearly as noticeable on the glass covers but over time it makes the plastic lenses look hazy. At least you can easily clean them if need be ;ol;
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I'd be more curious on the longevity, do they last as long as normal halogens or HIDs?

Cutting holes in that cover allows the possibility for dirt to get into the housing and coat the inside of the lens. It probably wont be nearly as noticeable on the glass covers but over time it makes the plastic lenses look hazy. At least you can easily clean them if need be ;ol;
The bulb longevity is rated at 30,000 hours. don't know how the fans and power supply will last.

I would bet much much much better than HID or Quartz.

There is a fan inside the housing and it is blowing OUT, so it would be difficult for dirt to get in, but the flow is out when the lights are on.

I thought of going without drilling holes in the covers, but opted for better cooling.
 

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Since you have those bulbs in your wife's car - how do you like the beam pattern of the 3 sided bulbs? I have some ones sourced from Amazon on my 9-3 with the euro lenses and I like the beam pattern fine but am looking for slightly better....goodness knows overall they seem to make the OG 9-3 at night a better ride vision wise (at least on low - I find the high beams to be a bit lacking).

Thanks!
 

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I'd love to see some photos of the LED lights at night on the road. If they produce a good beam (that doesn't blind oncoming traffic) and have good longevity, they're a much better option than aftermarket HIDs.

I'm also curious to see how your shifter linkage modification ends up. Is this something the average (or below average) DIY mechanic could do?
The shifter slop bugs me and it would be great to get rid of that. I had the GS short shifter for a while and I'm sure it would have been a better experience if the play was gone.
 

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I have some pics of comparison in the OG 9-3 mods section to give you brief overview....and I did have to adjust the beam down a little as they can be blinding...but I would love to see some 9-5 pics here as well!
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Fan wiring

The red wagon had the harness for the 2 fans cut out by PO probably cannibalization for another car. I took the harness from the donor car and spliced it in.

While I was at it, I decided to add a connector so that I could put in additional pusher fans in front of the radiator/intercooler/condenser. I plan to do this later on for additional cooling.



I put in a 6 pin connector [only using 4 of the sockets] that will tap into the wires to supply these additional fans.



For now I just put in a sealed blank plug to keep dirt and water out.

All the wiring is covered by black heat shrink tubing. All connections were soldered and covered with individual heat shrink tubing. The spade lugs that go into the connector are also soldered.

 

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Discussion Starter #33
Abs computer and valve

The red wagon has no ABS computer installed....again another "borrowed" part. You can see in this photo that the actuator box is gone and the core of the solenoids are exposed and rusty.



I loosened the 6 steel lines as you can see by the fluid on the top of the unit.


My donor car has a very good and operating ABS unit so I will swap them out. Luckily the 2001 and the 2000 are identical units.

with the controller removed I put some small ziplock bags in place to capture the dripping brake fluid from the reservoir.





Tomorrow I will take the good unit out of the 2001 donor Aero
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I'd love to see some photos of the LED lights at night on the road. If they produce a good beam (that doesn't blind oncoming traffic) and have good longevity, they're a much better option than aftermarket HIDs.

I'm also curious to see how your shifter linkage modification ends up. Is this something the average (or below average) DIY mechanic could do?
The shifter slop bugs me and it would be great to get rid of that. I had the GS short shifter for a while and I'm sure it would have been a better experience if the play was gone.
I don't have photos as these are not in a car yet. My wife's Aero produces a good patter on low, and a stunning amount of light on high beam.

Theoretically the LEDs will last a long time.

I won't know how the shifter works for a couple of months.....I am sure it will be better in that we took lots of play out of the system. I do have the genuinesaab shifter in the car.

I am not sure if the average guy could install the full kit. Maybe the longest rod system. It could be a rebuild type item where someone will send in the item for modification. I may do that, but we are not supposed to advertise here on this site. PM me if you like.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Tcs control install



This is the TCS controller going in place. Two of the brake lines are hooked up. The 4 connectors on top go to each of the wheel brakes at the 4 corner. There are 2 more pipes at the rear.

Each of the hex fittings is 10mm, but the fitting diametes are 2 different sizes so you don't mix them up.


The rest of the lines are now hooked up. The yellow sticker is from BBA Remanufacturing when they rebuilt the controller unit. This is the part that was removed from the old TCS controller.


this is the connector on the computer. I am spraying it with contact cleaner before hooking up to make sure the connection is good.



Here is the fuse box back in place above the TCS controller and valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Expansion valve

I decided to replace the A/C expansion valve while I was in there.....it is hard to reach with the engine installed.

This valve has a small orifice that changes with temperature and pressure. They are quite reliable, but dirt in the orifice can cause problems. I have no idea of the condition of the A/C system so I replaced it with a new valve just to be safe. Lots of A/C components are hard to get to, so not is a good time to do this work. I will replace the receiver/dryer/reservoir unit which is normal when you open the system. There is a dessicant back in this unit to absorb water so it needs to be replaced when ever the system is opened. I also plan to replace the condensor.

When I removed the first hose on the old unit there was a bit of escaping gas so the system was pressurized which is a good thing.



The valve has been removed here. Those pipes ore on the firewall and go into the heater box.



Here is the old and new expansion valve.



The new valve installed with new "O" rings. I will pull a vacuum on the system to be sure the system is not leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I did a bit more work this weekend. It looks like the air cleaner in the red wagon is really bad....someone taped it up and put a piece of cardboard in place and then duct taped it heavily......new one is not that expensive......I do have a good one in my parts car.



I also found a bad high pressure connector on the condenser. I have a new condenser to put in and a just got a new receiver/dryer/reservoir from Amazon. Plan to put them in tomorrow.

 

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Discussion Starter #38
Here is the driver side window motor......cleaned up and lubed, and tested and ready to go back in.




The front end is looking cleaner and more ready. I will replace the condenser tomorrow.

I am looking at putting a pusher fan up front hooked to one of both of the fans.

 

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Discussion Starter #39
I attacked the doors yesterday. Passenger side has no glass and the driver side had no motor and door lock.

I did the driver side yesterday. Was a bit fiddly getting the lock in, and getting the window in the track was challenging. Now it is all done.

I had to drill out rivets to install the aluminum bracket on the left side and rivet it back in. This bracket holds the cable for the inside door handle.

Driver side complete without the door panel:




Passenger side......the motor and mechanism is in place....need to get the glass out of the donor car today and install it. I hope it will go fast.......I think I am up to speed on this....I am getting lots of practice!!!

 

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Discussion Starter #40
Passenger door glass

Well I took the glass out of the donor car. Went pretty fast......I am getting the hang of these front door as this is the 4th one in 2 days I have worked on.

First step is to get the door cards off and get the glass in the right position to pull off the clips and take out the ball joints from the green rollers. Next take out the rollers and lift the window with the front part down. Gentle getting the channels pass the door opening.

Coming out of donor car.



Window out.



Glass going into the red car:


This is the famous "green roller" that slides in the groove to make the window go up and down. These crack and break with some regularity. Easy to put in if you do it right. There is a ball joint on the arms that snaps into the hole and is held in by the clip.



Put the roller in the channel. Line up the ball and push it in. Use channel lock pliers like in the photo to snap it in......2 CLICKS....!!!



I have seen a couple of videos that tells you to take the clip out, push the ball in and then put on the clip......that is not the way to do it and a waste of time and effort. There is also a video out there that tells you to take the window out!!! Why? Easy to change rollers with window in there. Amazing the wrong info out there.
 
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