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Discussion Starter #1
hey everyone...
so i was on my way home from work tonight when my car just died at the intersection. I tried starting it and it wouldnt start unless i revved the engine and it would only stay on if i kept my foot on the gas pedal...
I called a friend of mine who knows about cars especially turbos and he came and helped me. At first he was like its probably your TPS. Then he asked me what kind of fuel i have been putting in it. I told him the 87 grade. He said thats my problem so we got it to start enough to where i could drive it to the nearest gas station and bought an octane booster (i still had 1/4 tank left) and then we filled up with premium.
Now it will start if you rev the engine and it will stay running but it will run really rough. He said that it just needs to process the gas through the engine. And i need to let it run for a while.
I guess my question is do you think that this is my problem? Ive had the car for about 6 months and i've always used the 87 fuel. (its my first turbo and i didnt know better)

my car has been having problems the past several months, heres the links to those posts...
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104538
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106991
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109339

*edited*
the past month or so i have had no problems with the car the engine light went off and stayed off. When my car died tonight the cel came on and the TCS Off light came on.
 

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It's not the gas. Your car's Trionic engine management system will let it run on virtually any grade of fuel. It does sound like it's something in the fuel system, and your problem sounds very similar to one I had a couple of years ago when the NTC temperature sensor up on the intake manifold failed. When that happens, the ECU doesn't know when the engine is warm or cold and puts the wrong amount of fuel into the engine. It's a cheap part, too, only $12.13 at eEuroparts.com.
 

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spicyautumn said:
hey everyone...
so i was on my way home from work tonight when my car just died at the intersection. I tried starting it and it wouldnt start unless i revved the engine and it would only stay on if i kept my foot on the gas pedal...
I called a friend of mine who knows about cars In his opinion, in my opinion.....Todays cars are extremely complex - very few know them that well...I certainly do not....:cheesy: especially turbos and he came and helped me. At first he was like its probably your TPS.Guessing(a mistake) , the diagnosis must be done.codes ??? Then he asked me what kind of fuel i have been putting in it. I told him the 87 grade. He said thats my problem so we got it to start enough to where i could drive it to the nearest gas station and bought an octane booster (i still had 1/4 tank left) and then we filled up with premium. Maybe right 20 -30 years ago; but wrong today..
Now it will start if you rev the engine and it will stay running but it will run really rough. He said that it just needs to process the gas through the engine. And i need to let it run for a while.
I guess my question is do you think that this is my problem? Ive had the car for about 6 months and i've always used the 87 fuel. (its my first turbo and i didnt know better)

my car has been having problems the past several months, heres the links to those posts...
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104538
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106991
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109339

*edited*
the past month or so i have had no problems with the car the engine light went off and stayed off. When my car died tonight the cel came on and the TCS Off light came on.
Use the fuel recommended in the owner's manual...
As I am to understand, the throttle body can be carefully cleaned...this MAY be the problem...
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
how do i clean it?

*edited*
I just went back out to try to start it again and i noticed a clicking noise that was not there before, when i turn the key to the on position with out starting it theres a clicking noise i think it clicks like 5 times and it stops.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ok i want to take my car in to the shop to get it looked at but i have no money and theyre gonna charge me $100 to pull the code and diagnose it. I'm just wondering if anyone knows of a place I can sell my 2 month old DI cassette that only has a little over 1,000 miles on it. (my old one that i still have obviously was not the problem as all this has happened with both the old and the new DI Cassette)
I'm desperate and I dont know how else to get the money.
 

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When you say clicking...do you mean like the starter is clicking - and the car is not turning over - or is this happening when the car actually starts.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
it happens when i turn the key to the acc/on position with out actually turning the key to start the car. i dont know if its the starter. I just noticed a clicking noise.
 

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spicyautumn said:
it happens when i turn the key to the acc/on position with out actually turning the key to start the car. i dont know if its the starter. I just noticed a clicking noise Unless the ignition switch is really fouled up, what you hear cannot be the starter - it may be one of the relays under the dash, normally their click is inaudible....
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1085524#post1085524
The cleaning of the throttle body is discussed here, even with some pics.

IMO, no shop should charge more than 0.5 hour labor for reading the codes; even at this it is still very profitable....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yea i usually go to tires plus which is right across the street from me and they charge $99 to pull the code and to diagnose it.
 

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spicyautumn said:
yea i usually go to tires plus which is right across the street from me and they charge $99 to pull the code and to diagnose it.
Take your car to your local Autozone. They will let you borrow their OBDII code reader for free to get the codes and you can clear the codes when finished.
 

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As already posted if you have a CEL, have the codes read for free at Autozone, or find anyone who has one of the cheap (under $50) code readers for OBD-II engines.

Aside from that, I am wondering if the ECU was ever reset after some of the other issues were found, like the wrong plugs, the octane booster, open charge air pipe, etc.

I believe the T7 ECU has a similar algorithm for adaptation as the T5. It will try to adapt to different engine conditions (like different grades of gas). The adaptation algorithm on the T5 can also get messed up if you throw the wrong parts at the car, run the engine with a flaky BPC, or a broken or disconnected vacuum line. In theory it should "adapt" to the correct parts and conditions again, but my T5 does not always do that.

I have had to reset the ECU now and then, after some of my "experiments" (read mistakes) with the various sensors and vacuum lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ok a friend of mine is going to come over today so when he gets here ill drive it over to auto zone as i dont feel comfortable driving it by myself.
even if i do take it to autozone and they pull the code for me and i take it to the garage they will still charge me the $99 to pull the code and diagnose it because they need to see for them selves what code its giving.
I know a guy that has his own garage and will look at it for free and tell me whats wrong with it but he's an hour away and im not sure that i can drive my car that far especially with traffic.
I guess it wont hurt to call the guy and see what he says.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i just talked to the mechanic and he said to bring it up there so now im just waiting on my friend to get here cause i dont want to drive it alone. i know this guy will not charge me to look at it, thank god. I completley forgot about him :(

Ill keep u guys updated.
 

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A wield world in which we live, Spicy.

A tire place charges $99 to read the Saab codes, yet AutoZone charges nothing.
What do either know about cars, much less Saabs ?
Or, one can be equally overcharged at the dealer - at least there they do know, or should.....And if one is earning at least $30 per hour, this is affordable...
Otherwise, only Roger Clemens can afford this - he is paid something like(actually more !!) $1,000 per pitch, yet he does nothing for the betterment of mankind , other than "treating" them to his amazing athleticism..
A wield world indeed..:nono;

Read PMIs post again, he makes sense..
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ok i just got back from the mechanic.
he read the code and said that there was a misfire in cylinder(?) one so he looked at the wires and saw that a critter chewed through it and thats what the problem is. So he told me how to fix it so im going to do that in the morning.
i took some pics of the wires so u guys could take a look at it...



 

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Discussion Starter #17
im so mad at myself i should have just let the mechanic do it. I couldnt get the wire into the plastic thing so i stripped a little more and by accident i cut the wire even more. so now the 2 ends of the wire dont even touch each other. So im gonna have to go back up there today. I dont even know what he can do to fix it. Might have to buy new wires. i dunno.
 

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You can repair that with any similar piece of wire, and a couple of the smallest crimp connectors from any hardware store. Often you can find a set on sale, including a crimp tool and a few connectors in assorted sizes.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
where can i find a piece of wire? so would i just put the piece of wire thru the crimp connector and then put the other wire into the ends of the crimp connector?
i was going to take my car back to the mechanic but since the wire is cut in half i dont really want to drive it for an hour by myself and i cant find anyone to go with me or follow me up there.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
ok a friend of mine came over and fixed the wire for me. :)
It still wont start with out me giving it gas and as soon as i let go of the gas it dies.
He said it could be the idle speed control. Is there a way to test it?
 
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