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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all!
Just recieved in my Tech II. I'm just happy the thing seems to work.

Here are my codes if someone could help explain??

B3817 05 - Lock/unlock short to B+ or open

P0501 00 - vehicle speed incorrect signal

P0463 00 - Fuel Sensor Curcut, Open/Short to B+
(Fuel gauge doesn't work)

B1339 00 - +30 power feed missing

B1000 36 - Control Module. Internal Fault

C0040 06 - Speed Sensor Circuit/ Open Short to Ground
(Brand new wheel hub/sensor already installed, still throwing code)

And some fog light codes and not real concerned with.

Can someone guide me here please??

Thanks!!
 

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You should probably look for a copy of the Workshop Information System (WIS) installer. While the material is copyrighted, I think the current attitude is that it's OK to distribute. There should be some links around on this site.

On to your codes:

B3817 05 - That's the driver's door lock motor.

B1339 00 - Power's missing to the driver's door control module. The window and mirror shouldn't function with this fault.

B1000 36 - An EEPROM fault. You should have information from the Tech 2 about which module has the fault. This fault can occur when you swap parts and don't marry them with the Tech 2 (like door modules, which are common replacement items).

C0040 06 - Front right speed sensor open/short. Check connectors and wiring. Pretty simple to diagnose.

P0501 00 - Probably caused by the bad speed sensor

P0463 00 - Bad fuel level sensor or bad connection in that circuit. Was the fuel pump replaced recently?


So, sounds like someone worked on the driver's door, swapped out the switch module, maybe didn't plug it back in properly and certainly didn't marry it up with the rest of the CAN bus via a Tech 2. Also, the FR hub was replaced but the ABS sensor plug may not be connected or damaged. Last, the fuel pump was replaced and maybe the sender's bad (made from the finest Chinesium?) or the connector wasn't seated properly.

That took about a beer to grep through the WIS for answers but I'll spot you one. ;)

Seriously, if you have a Tech 2, you'll want to grab a copy of the WIS if one wasn't provided with the CD that all the knock-offs come with. It's essential reading if you want to wrench on these things.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The wiring for the speed sensor looks good, but I can't see where it goes beyond the black shield behind the wheel. Where does that wiring lead too
Or connect inside the engine bay??

My main goal is just to get it to pass emissions (for now) and the speed sensor is the only thing that is throwing the check engine light. That's the only thing the State of WI really looks at.

Also I found this loose wire. What might this attach too? Might have something to do with something?? See attachment...

Thanks! I really appreciate all your help!!
 

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Forget about this wire, its optional for hood ajar switch.

Speed fault is due front right sensor, if the wiring in the arch are good (where it usually get corroded) then replace the bearing
 

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Also I found this loose wire. What might this attach too? Might have something to do with something?? See attachment...

Thanks! I really appreciate all your help!!

that's the plug for the hood switch for the anti-theft system..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So, the "right side" is the passenger side, correct? That wheel hub has already been replaced. The wiring looks good up to the wheel well, but I can't see past that, or where it connects too inside the engine bay.
 

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Stupid question, did u try to erase the fault ?
Second, what is the brand of the bearing u installed ?

If u erased the fault and it cane back, and u have an OEM bearing, here is a test u can do.
Unplug the ABS connector, measure the resistance at the connector side between pin7&8 and between pin19&20.. if they match, replace ur ABS module .
If they dont, u have to trace that wiring harness
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did clear the code, and replaced the wheel hub with a Timkin.
Disconnect the ABS from where? I guess that is what I am getting to. I don't know where the other end of the speed sensor wire goes to?? From the wheel hub, to where? The ABS system?
 

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By the way, if both combination indicate open circuit or infinite resistance, unplug the FR sensor connector, unplug ABS module, short both pins in the sensor connector, measure resistance across pin 7&8 in the ABS connector, it must be below 1 ohm.
 

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Tell u the truth it looks in-specs .. so good chance its the ABS module, however just keep digging that harness so to make sure no weird stuff Here or there .

And do one more test, check resistance between pin 7 and the a good ground point, and pin 8 and a good ground point as well.
It should read open circuit .
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok, this is weird...
I checked 7&8

It said "O.L" on my reader which I assume stands for "Open Line".
But! Suddenly it would jump to 9 then 10 then 11 and 12. Then back to OL.
Tried the other pin. It did the same thing!
Is my meter wacky or something? Maybe am? Idk?
To be certain, I am to be checking the pins on the harness right?? Not the modual itself.
Help....
 

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Yes the harness, the harness must be disconnected at both ends though (ABS end & BEARING end)
To add to it, while u r doing the resistance check, if it kept giving u OL, move the harness at different spots try if the OL changes
 
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