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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had the car for less than 8 hours so forgive me if I use the wrong terms...

I want to drop the oil pan. I have read a bunch of posts but have two concerns.

#1 What hold the oil pick up to the sump? I bought the O ring but it is mechanically attached or is a press fit? I had a similar setup on a transmission. The pipe worked it's way out, the tranny couldn't pick up the fluid and it died a month after the fluid change. I don't want the same issue again!

#2 Can I use Permatex 81160? I could not find loctite 518 or the Permatex 51817 (I think that was the number)

#3 I am thinking of flushing first. Is Seafoam okay? It did not mention turbos. My other option is to track down an Amsoil rep.
#4 While I have you here, can you confirm the process? Add flush fluid, run car 10 min, drain, remove pan, replace pan, add oil and filter?

I am going to use mobil 1 0-40W and a mobil 1 filter.
 

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sea foam can be put in your oil and you can still drive the car. ive done it with mine for 3000 miles and have had no issues doing it. ive read many places saying that they use seafoam with turbos. seafoam is petrol based so it wont harm your motor or thin out your oil. just use the recomended amount and you will be fine.

i use mobil 1 5w40 diesel truck oil. i guess its hard to find but in michigan, we have a store called meijer and they cary it. i dont see how 0w40 would be much different.
 

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The oil pickup is bolted to the pan. First you unbolt a small cover in the pan, and then you can see the pickup bolted to the pan. It's held in by two bolts. The o-ring goes on the end of the pickup tube where it pokes into a hole inside the pan.

Ask someone at your local auto parts chain for Loctite or Permatex 518. Most any store, especially the big chains, can get it very quickly. I buy mine at O'Reilly's. They carry a tiny tube in the store, but they can get a tube four times the size for less than twice as much the next day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I will keep looking for the 518.
If I am going to drop the pan, I would like to jse more of a flush first. What is safe for turbos?
 

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Assume you have a 9-3?

See the sticky thread "all things oil" at the top of this forum.

Removing the pickup is easy. Getting to where the pan is out is more of a challenge. Again, see the thread.

I also recommend getting the o-rings for the "oil delivery tube" that runs across the top of the pan. You will see it when you pull the pan out... if it doesn't drop out on its own. The o-rings on that will be hardened and should be replaced while you are in there. Get new nuts for the downpipe connection at the top too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I started dropping the pan tonight. I planned on doing it over two or three nights.

I ran into a few small issues...
The head of the oil pan bolt was rounded over. Hoping I can get a new one at Autozone.

One of the bolts for the exhaust clamp snapped. Should I buy a new clamp or drill it out?

I forgot I purchased AMSOIL engine flush and I drained the oil!!! Is it worth dumping in a few quarts of cheap oil just so I can flush the engine? AHHHHHH


Other than that it went ok. I got the front 4 subframe bolts out. I loosend the back. I think I got the downpipe bolts cracked loose but left them on in case I fun the flush through.
 

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I started dropping the pan tonight. I planned on doing it over two or three nights.

I ran into a few small issues...
The head of the oil pan bolt was rounded over. Hoping I can get a new one at Autozone.

One of the bolts for the exhaust clamp snapped. Should I buy a new clamp or drill it out?

I forgot I purchased AMSOIL engine flush and I drained the oil!!! Is it worth dumping in a few quarts of cheap oil just so I can flush the engine? AHHHHHH


Other than that it went ok. I got the front 4 subframe bolts out. I loosend the back. I think I got the downpipe bolts cracked loose but left them on in case I fun the flush through.
If money is tight, you can usually save the clamp. Put it in a vise, heat the "nut" part red hot with a torch, use vise grips to unscrew the broken bolt from the back side. That said, it's almost always better to replace them as they tend to bend when tightened and don't hold as well the second time around.

Skip the flush unless there's a specific reason you need it.
 

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Do not flush these engines - all this will do is dislodge any sludge which will then block teh oil strainer. No known engine flushing additive will dissolve sludge which is also often disintegrated rubber breather hose - it has to be removed mechanicaly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Even if I am dropping the pan anyway????

Do the oxegen sensors need to come off? It wasn't mentioned on all of the searched. I wasnt sure if the wires were long enought for me to move it out of the way.

Any idea what size bolts mount the pipe to the turbo?
I have one that is a little rounded. It seemed like it was 1/2". I got two off with a 13mm socket but noticed the 1/2" socket fit the best.
 

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Even if I am dropping the pan anyway????

Do the oxegen sensors need to come off? It wasn't mentioned on all of the searched. I wasnt sure if the wires were long enought for me to move it out of the way.

Any idea what size bolts mount the pipe to the turbo?
I have one that is a little rounded. It seemed like it was 1/2". I got two off with a 13mm socket but noticed the 1/2" socket fit the best.
You can move the down pipe "out of the way but it's a PITA to work like that. Leave them in the pipe if you want but disconnect the connectors so that you can pull it out the bottom. Once I got my pipe out, I broke them loose with an oxy-sensor socket so that putting the pipe back in would be easier. You could even use an open end once the pipe is out.

They are nuts on studs, metric 8mmx??. I forget the ?? part, someone here might recall. 13mm is almost exactly .5", so that usually crosses over.
 

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I get these numbers:

Oil delivery tube (2x) 9137993
Oil pickup tube (1x) 9138009

Edit: about $10 total, so unless you are ordering other stuff on-line, just get them at a dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Oh man. I got the oil pick up I ring but not the other two.

I hoped to get the pan out and back in tonight. It looks like it will be a game time decision.
 

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You can probably get them at a local autoparts store.

When you get the pan down, you will see the delivery tube. If you pull on it, or maybe just touch it :-0, it will drop out because the old o-rings will be hard and distorted. Or you can go the "don't touch it" option and just leave them in place.

If they leak you don't lose any oil, but it just doesn't pressure as well. I figure that while you are all the way in there, you should change them.
 

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I get these numbers:

Oil delivery tube (2x) 9137993
Oil pickup tube (1x) 9138009

Edit: about $10 total, so unless you are ordering other stuff on-line, just get them at a dealer.
Thanks, no dealer here, but I'll locate them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Pan is Down

Well I have the pan out. What a mess, black grit everywhere.
The pan wasn't completely covered but there is a lot there.

The inside of the block is completely covered. It looks like black sandpaper. Is that normal???

The pick up tube/screen isnt that bad.

I also found a plastic part in the pan. I attached pictures. Any idea what it is?
 

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That plastic part looks a lot like the bottom end of a timing chain guide. Not sure what else it could possibly be. You should probably check your timing chain tensioner to see ho much wear the guides have and pull the valve cover to get a better look at the guides themselves.

Either way if part of your timing chain guide has broken off that is something that you should probably look into just to be sure.
 

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Someone else chime in if they know better, but I am pretty sure the timing chain guides can only be replaced with the engine out of the car. There is very little room between the frame rail and the timing cover and I do not think the cover can be removed with the engine in the car.

Taken from thesaabsite.com:



the right side of that part in the picture looks like the piece you found.

It is part #13 in that diagram and it is the top part of the chain tensioner guide



The tensioner is part #9

EDIT: After looking at it again the piece is more likely this one:



That is the Balance shaft chain guide



Part 22 in the diagram.

Whichever part it is, the same still applies and cannot be replaced with the engine in the car. Unless there is a trick somebody knows that I am unaware of.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I havethe no idea how long it has been broken. Should i worry?

The engine runs fine but there is a ton of sludge on the block. I am not sure how long it will last.
 
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