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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I have succumbed to the desire for more and better sound. Friend of mine did an install on his car, and after I heard it, I was hooked and wanted the same!

http://ultraviresmotorsports.com/images/spg-brace-amp.jpg

So in went a JL audio amp and a second hand JL sub. I don't know much about the specs, other than the amp is a model e1200, and the sub is 10". The box was bought off the shelf.

But because I wanted the box and amp to come out easily in case I need the storage space, I went to a local Lee Valley store (leevalley.com) and picked up a couple of stainless latches. These I fixed to the hatch floor and also to the sub box. Wiring wise, there are only five that need to be disconnected quickly - the amp power and ground, and the amp 'on' signal wire. The latter has simple spade terminals. The other two are on a battery quick disconnect (that grey thing in the picture). Then there are just the two RCA cables, and done. The whole box can come out in like 20 seconds, once the safety pins on the latches are removed, and then the latches themselves are released.

Also visible in the image is a rear brace I fabricated. Email me directly if you want more info on that, otherwise if I say more I think I may violate the forum posting rules, and I can't afford the advertising on SC at the moment! ;)

And here is a pic of new, reinforced lower control arms.

http://ultraviresmotorsports.com/images/99-control-arms.jpg

I DNF'd out of my last rally because we broke one of the control arms right at the shock mounting point. Thanks to James Fox for the info and suggestions. A friend of mine did the fabrication. The extra tab replaces the shock mounting washer, and helps to take some of the load on the shock mount. It sits nicely on the little ridge on the lower part of the control arm. Finally, the arms themselves are completely boxed in, and will not catch any small rocks or whatever. Have to see yet if the upper plating will clear the lower part of the axle tunnel, but we'll see.
 

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I like the control arm, cant remember where i seen a post showing how its done.
You did that yourself?
The JL woofers are rather high Q at 0.9 theirwell suited to there own amplifiers but can sound shut in and lack focus.

I hope your box is sealed and not vented?

You also have your box in the wrong place for maximum cabin gain, it should be as close to the rear tailgate as possible, this will give sound reinforcement and a little more sound pressure at your head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
As I indicated, the control arms were made by a friend of mine.

The box is sealed. I'm not that great in telling the differences between this piece of car audio and that piece of car audio, so I just went with what my friend told me, he's the expert! ;) Now ask me about go-fast stuff, and I'm all in it. Putting that box and amp near the tail lights would be 50lbs in totally the wrong place for weight distribution!
 

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Lower conrtol arms

Sorry to be DAF (Dumb As....) but how does reinforcing the lower control arms help handling/stifness etc? Is it worthwhile given the work involved?
 

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Very good point Eric! :lol:

@SI
I have read from some people who take their cars on racing circuit for track days and who had problems with breaking lower control arms. I do not think that I will ever have problems with somthing like that, though. Probably not something the avarage Saab 900 driver has to consider.
 

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Lower control arms

Maybe something for me to consider a bit further down the line as i do want to track my car on a regular basis once it's sorted out.

May have to spend a day in a local scrap yard recovering a pair.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Apparently, there is some benefit to reinforced lower control arms on track/fast road cars, but I've never driven with them in that application. Only rally, and as my rally car can attest, they do take a beating. For now, the reinforced control arms are only for my rally car - but maybe this winter I'll have another set made up for the SPG.
 

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I considered reinforcing my lower control arms, too. But on the other hand, the whole body of my SPG is flexing so much, I would have to reweld the body first and ad some additional struts. I am not sure that I am willing to do this considering that I still have all the original paint - in good shape.
 

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Area's of concern

While we are on the topic, are there any other area's where the 900 could do with a little extra stiffness?

I've heard of people welding up the wheel arch seams, anything else?

What about the top shock mountings on the rear suspension?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, you can see what I have done with my brace in the rear of the car. Once I get around to it, I'll probably have two additional pieces going from the rear shock mounts up to the bar again.

After that...hmmm...maybe a half cage, tied into the b-pillars.

As it is, right now the car feels quite neutral through the corners with the addition of the diff locker and the rear brace. On slower stuff, I can just plant it and the nose just grips around the corner. Lovely! I'm going to be quite a bit dulled down when I have to switch back to the winter car... :cry:
 
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