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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
About a month ago I started having problems with my 2002 Saab 93 Turbo. (Manual Transmission) It will turn over but will not completely start. The first time I tried and tried and when the tow truck finally got there it started right up. Another time when it would not start I would leave it overnight and in the morning it still would not start. I got it towed to the mechanic and it started for him.

The car is on its forth time back to the shop. Once I would get the car back from the mechanic it would work fine for about a week, sometimes needing a couple of tries to start, but would finally start until last Tuesday.

Last Tuesday I successfully started the car five times that day and a few blocks from my last start the car completely stopped mid turn and would not start again. I tried it again both 5 and 15 min later without luck. The tow truck came, took it to the shop, and it started right up. My sweet car has been at the shop since Tuesday afternoon and he has not been able to replicate the problem. I love my car but am ready to trade it in as I need something reliable to get me around town.

Please help me. I want to give my mechanic some sound ideas without telling him how to do his job. He said that there were NO codes when he hooked it up.
 

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Next time it doesn't start, spray some starter fluid into the throttle body, if it starts up for a few seconds it's a fuel issue, if not check for spark by removing the DIC, placing some plugs in it and grounding them, then look for sparks when you crank.
 

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'02 9-5 Aero Wagon, '88 SPG, '02 Viggen Vert, '01 Viggen 4dr, +Triumphs & MGs
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I would suggest the failing crank position sensor....here is a question for you though.

If you turn the key to on but not to the starter position...leave it there for a 10 or so seconds then try and start it does that help?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The car is at the shop and working so I cannot try the 10 sec test or the starter fluid test....thanks, if I get it back and it acts up I will try that.

Maybe I will ask if they can look at the CPS but I thought that if it was a bad CPS that it would not turn over at all. Mine turns over but fails to start.
 

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A better "mechanic" is required...Yeah, he is good at starting, but weak at diagnosing.
1 a non-starter will not necessarily generate a code (these are emissions based) NOT depending directly on the engines health.
2 the start up time is 1 to 2 seconds when all is well
3 the CPS is good for 100K or so.
4 same with the FP and DIC, but more "so".
5 a new experimental test for the CPS is the use of a quick cooling agent on a suspect unit.
 

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Earthworm, For the quick cooling of the CPS - you are talking spraying say canned air, etc on the unit head attached to the engine correct?

That is a trick I have not tried but sounds like a smart way to go.
 

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Earthworm, For the quick cooling of the CPS - you are talking spraying say canned air, etc on the unit head attached to the engine correct?

That is a trick I have not tried but sounds like a smart way to go.

I have used first-aid type cold sprays in the past, checking coolant sensors and such on Mitsu's, usually available at any drug store or pharmacy. Parts stores may also carry something nowadays.
 

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Just turn some canned air upside-down and dump liquid co2 on it. Can't promise it won't crack something due to thermal stress, but I'd do it...
 

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I know i am off track but just curious of the science behind the quick cooling of the CPS. Just genuinely curious how it diagnoses that a CPS is bad.
 

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I know i am off track but just curious of the science behind the quick cooling of the CPS. Just genuinely curious how it diagnoses that a CPS is bad.
I'd use a liquid rather than a gas.....but I have never tried this procedure.
IF the cooling allows the CPS to function anew, then we know its "on its last legs" and re-newal should be emminate..
But I think its better to measure/look at the pattern using an oscilloscope..
 

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About a month ago I started having problems with my 2002 Saab 93 Turbo. (Manual Transmission) It will turn over but will not completely start. The first time I tried and tried and when the tow truck finally got there it started right up. Another time when it would not start I would leave it overnight and in the morning it still would not start. I got it towed to the mechanic and it started for him.

The car is on its forth time back to the shop. Once I would get the car back from the mechanic it would work fine for about a week, sometimes needing a couple of tries to start, but would finally start until last Tuesday.

Last Tuesday I successfully started the car five times that day and a few blocks from my last start the car completely stopped mid turn and would not start again. I tried it again both 5 and 15 min later without luck. The tow truck came, took it to the shop, and it started right up. My sweet car has been at the shop since Tuesday afternoon and he has not been able to replicate the problem. I love my car but am ready to trade it in as I need something reliable to get me around town.

Please help me. I want to give my mechanic some sound ideas without telling him how to do his job. He said that there were NO codes when he hooked it up.
Your mechanic is trying to con you out of your Saab....

Other than that, I suggest picking up a new ignition switch relay module:



And swapping it out with the one that is in there now.
 

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Your mechanic is trying to con you out of your Saab....

Other than that, I suggest picking up a new ignition switch relay module:



And swapping it out with the one that is in there now.
I had similar problems.

Had spark, crank,just no gas. This was on a 2.3 non turbo, after replacing basically the entire under the hood ignition system turned out to be the ignition switch.

However the intermittent nature of your problem screams bad CPS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thank you everyone. As of Friday the mechanic is looking for a new CPS....I hope that is it. I will let him know the ignition switch if that is not it.
 
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