[tamashi]

Hi guys,

So I am new to owning a Saab and I like it so far. She came to me in a time of desperation when I had 900$ to my name and I was browsing craigslist when there it was. A 91' Saab 900 5spd, I have always been wary of Saabs, but I am starting to like this one. She's definitely a beater, but has nice interior and the last owners didn't care for her much. They were a mexican family that used the car to get around until they bought a new one. He sold her to me for $800, I am mechanically inclined so I knew what to look for. She has bondo on both sides I think and is a 20 footer on the outside. I love it though because I don't care where I park. The paint is still okay for her age and the interior is in good shape. I also learned the 91' is the rare year with the 2.1l head on it so at the end of her life some lucky guy will get a head for his 2.0l turbo. She doesn't burn oil, but leaks very little and loses coolant. I am thinking it's the heater core as I have no heat inside the vehicle. The family bought the car from his friend who owns turbo Saabs who bought it from a guy that loved her very much I came to find out. The guy they bought it from swapped the cluster as I took it to the shop to diagnose the fuel smell and they knew the car instantly. Basically the guy was very meticulous on changing the fluids and caring for the car. The cluster says 141k, but the shop dialed her in at 193k last time she was serviced in 2013 I believe. Ian the oo had put a new clutch in her beforehand which I can still tell has a lot of life on her. She's been in an accident though, because the fuel tank is cracked and shows wet spots on the bottom of the car. Looks like the filler sleeve is in good shape, but the fuel smell is noticeable in the cabin especially after a hot day. I replaced the gas cap already and the fuel sender is not working I assume as it intermittently will come on and go right back off (maybe a loose ground or connection) The hydraulic motor mount is gone which causes me trouble shifting in to 5th sometimes and reverse to crunch into place even when I go easy. I am wondering if she's worth the 375$ to put a gas tank in + the cost of the tank. What tanks will fit my year model she's a liftback too btw. I love how smooth she rides, but my inner boot is torn and the front struts are shot as well as the ball joints. That double wishbone has to be costly to replace I am guessing. I am but a humble college student in a bind wondering if this car is going to be a money pit or if I can do the gas tank and heater core if that's it and get some useful miles out of her before parting her out? Also the electronic door locks work sometimes and it doesnt seem that my key will fit the trunk or the passenger door? I need to get the car registered as I don't have a title to it either, I know it was foolish but I was desperate. I work a full time job, go to school, and had to move all within the last 2 months. She's been faithful to me as I loved how much I could fit in her. I also have a problem with my idle constantly being at about 900-1200rpms which I could contribute to a vacuum leak somewhere in the motor. The temp gauge runs over halfway sometimes so I wonder if it's due to coolant loss or something else. If it isn't my heater core than where could my coolant be going? No milky oil btw and she sounds pretty good for her age. I told the shop I might drive the car to LA and I didn't after all, but they told me just make sure the fluids were filled up and I would be good to go. I imagine the OO spent many thousands to keep this car alive, before his wife forced him to sell her. I am wondering how long I should try to keep her alive before letting the her go to someone for parts? I live in california so I am looking for an illegal smog to get her registered and then possibly going to do the fuel tank soon if I can find one to fit her. I live a very busy lifestyle and I apologize for putting this all in one post, but I really like the car as you can tell else I wouldn't be here. I might buy another someday as I love the ride she gives even with the bad shocks and ball joints. The heated seat is nice too and working abs for 91 is impressive. I appreciate any help I can get as I know you all have probably been down the same path. I have a job that I may need to commute over 60 miles a day coming up if I get it too. Thanks for reading my post and I welcome any help I can get with this matter.

 

[secondsaab]

whoa man, I read most of it. I think I am hallucinating.

Take the tank off yourself and epoxy the crack. Go to auto parts store and ask for epoxy for gas tanks or radiators, it exists. JB Waterweld or the like, I did this myself in one instance. I think any 87-93 C900 gas tank fits your car. I had a challenge finding one in the "mail." Extra tank I have got out of junkyard i'm waiting for eboxy to break on mine, it's been 2 years held good.

Random idle. Clean out your AIC with brake cleaner. Spray wd40 around your engine while it's idling to find vac leaks, engine rpm should raise and lower. or visually inspect all the vac lines for cracks.

Door locks, check the fuse under the rear seat first.

Oh and make sure all your lights work so you don't get pulled over with a car you can't prove is yours.

 

[Blue Jello Rain]

Holy wall of text, you'll get more replies of you split that into some paragraphs so it's a bit easier to read.

No heat inside the car is usually because the metal rod that attaches to the heater control falls off. Remove the left (U.S. driver side) dash speaker grill to reattach it, look up some pictures of it on here.

What do you mean struts are shot? It has double A-arm/wishbone suspension, so unless the arms are cracked or something I don't see the problem. Are the rubber bushings dead?

About crunching into reverse: Reverse gear doesn't have synchros, shift into third before reverse. Aligning the shifter rod might help too, it's quick and easy.

Ball joints are not too difficult to replace but get quality ones, I've seen pictures of cheap ball joints and tie-rod ends having catastrophic failures.

You might want to do that soon too... having a balljoint fail at any kind of speed isn't pleasant.

 

[tamashi]

Sorry guys I do tend to be a sporadic writer and I was tired to boot. Its probably just the bushings then and hopefully not the ball joints. First car with a double wishbone suspension and I dunno why I thought of a mcPherson strut.

As for the aic I will try to clean that out and see if I get any good results. She seems to idle rough at times to at a red light so its probably a vacuum leak somewhere.

Could the 5th gear problem be related to something needing adjustment and not the failure of the motor mount?

I will also check the fuses under the rear seat for the door locks.

I appreciate your help as I've been looking at other cars and this one seems to be the best one for my price range.

 

[Rodentmaster]

Awkward gear changes (plus the occasional reverse grind) can also be attributed to worn clutch pedal linkage and "tired" hydraulics.......effectively, these result in clutch drag - where the clutch is not as effectively dis-engaged as it could be.
With the car off, grab the clutch pedal with your hand and gently push and pull on the pedal.......hopefully the pedal should show a few millimetres of free travel before it loads up.
A well sorted cooling system with the correct thermostat will run just over half scale on the gauge.....key item to confirm is that the radiator fan/s react correctly in stalled traffic.
With idle and other engine feedback, do the basics first, thoroughly.....correct spark plugs, rotor, cap, vacuum hoses, leaks, fuel filter....grounds and connectors.....need to be clean and secure.
Get the basics done before you begin to look any deeper for faults that might be covered by doing the easy stuff first.

 

[davide c]

Unbelievable... in a word.
Surprised IF this isn't some weird Troll
IF not .. then You were suckered... period.