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I have also heard of the stretching of bolts when they are reused. So usually I recommend replacing bolts. But I have also in the past used the same bolts but I went a 1/4 extra to make sure that I wouldn't have a issue with them. Not saying this will work everytime but I have has no issues with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
That was my concern when I originally asked. But, as I was checking for the proper procedure for head bolt re-torque, the GenuineSaab instructions state:
If any bolt does not tighten completely, that bolt must be replaced with a new bolt.
Which implies that the head bolts can be re-used. The TSB from Saab just says loosen then re-tighten.

Given that:

  1. I screwed up and ordered the wrong size rod-bearings
  2. The current rod bearings look good
  3. My car has been on blocks for over two weeks
I buttoned things up this weekend and will replace the rod bearings later. All the bolts tightened down well and everything went together without significant incident. When I go back in to replace the rod bearings (and check the sump again, since I'm paranoid now), I'll put in new bolts.

It's running well so far (I've just done a couple of short trips; going to keep it close to home for a while). No oil light or CEL (so far, it looks like the new NGK plugs helped my misfire problem). It still smells like burning oil, but I haven't found any oil leaks under the car (there were a lot of oil drips on the exhaust from having the pan off).

I'll recheck the oil level tonight and replace the oil in a couple of weeks. I'm going to do a couple of frequent oil changes before settling in to a normal interval.

I'll post pictures of the old main bearings when I get a chance.

Thanks to everyone for all the help with this project (escpecially Jssaab and Joby). You all have been life savers. ;ol;
 

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sounds good bro but I would power wash the engine and keep a eye for oil leaks. then if you are still smelling oil burning then check your oil pressure valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Aaaarrrrrrggggghhhhh!!!!!!!!!!

Sorry, I just needed to let out a little frustration.

Things were fine yesterday. I drove a couple of short (<30min) trips on the highway, with no problem. Today, I needed to go a little longer.

There was no problem for the first 45min or so. I was taking the side streets today, so my speed was slower and there were more stops. Then, as I was slowing down for a car turning in from of me, I heard a single "ding". My heart sank. I looked down, but no lights were on. Then, a few seconds later, another "ding". This time I caught a glimpse of the oil light flashing on.

Needless to say, I pulled over immediately and parked it.

I wouldn't expect the sump to have clogged up again so quickly (unless large amounts of the remaining sludge came off). I guess it's time to start researching other the other possible causes of low oil pressure when hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
Oil pressur ewhen hot ( as oil thins) could be a sign of bad bearings
The oil pickup was clean two days ago. The main bearings are brand new. The O-rings on the pickup tube and the oil tube in the block were all replaced. I used anaerobic gasket compound when I replaced the pan (so I don't have silicone blocking the screen :cheesy:).

So far, I'm planning on trying to find the source of the oil smell (might be related) and get an oil pressure gauge so I can measure the real pressure (any suggestions on an oil pressure gauge are welcome).

I'm a little concerned about screwing up the gasket compound when I replaced the pan. Even though I had the transmission jacked up, I could just barely get things to fit.

EDIT:
A couple of additional items:

* I'm currently running 5W30. I'm planning on switching to 0W40 on my next oil change (which will be very soon).
* Given the amount of sludge in the engine, is it possible the oil pressure relief valve is stuck open? (it is probably worth checking it)
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Well, I've decided to give any interested party an update.

First, here is a picture of my main bearings that I removed (one is on the left, five is on the right):



I've installed an oil pressure gauge, using an oil filter sandwich adapter:



After I installed the gauge, I did some driving around town. After the vehicle got hot, I observed a pressure of 8 psi idling at a stop light (no, the idiot light never came on). The next day, I removed and cleaned the oil pressure relief valve. It was grungy, but didn't look too bad (only a couple of short really light scratches).

Since I cleaned the oil pressure relief valve, the lowest I've seen the oil pressure (under normal conditions) has been 14 psi at idle (with 20 psi at 1000 rpm and 40 psi at 2000 rpm). When the engine gets really warm (such as sitting with the engine off for five minutes while pumping gas after a 1/2 hour commute on the highway), it has gotten down to 10psi, but as soon as I drive a block, it is back up to 15 psi at idle.

I did an oil change after 1100 miles and I'm due for another. Here is a picture of the inside of the oil filter. It looks like the sludge is starting to move from the block. I've only been running Mobil 1 0W40 (no additives).

 

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Forgot you did the bearings and they were not spun good for you. Cleaning the pressure relief valve sounds like it was your culprit...

Keep up the care I would not worry about the burning oil smell keep checking your level and you shoudl be good.

When you were in the thre did you rap on the rod ends to see if they are bad? No need to replace them usually if you can't hear them move when you do that... If you dont hear them knocking now I woudl let it go, your bearings were just going
 

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You may want to consider 5W/40 weight oil

Mobil-1 0W/40 is very good oil but it just barely qualifies as a 40 weight and is nearly a 30 weight. The B235 enigne in our 9-5s is tough on oil and 5W/40 weights are allowed by the regulations to contain extra ZZDP anti-wear additives since they are rated for diesel engine use too.

Mobil-1 5W/40 Turbo Diesel Truck & SUV or Shell Rotella-T 5W/40 Synthetic are readily available almost everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
When you were in the thre did you rap on the rod ends to see if they are bad? No need to replace them usually if you can't hear them move when you do that... If you dont hear them knocking now I woudl let it go, your bearings were just going
I did not rap on the rod ends, I just visually inspected them, but I don't hear them knocking now. Next time I clean the sump, I'll do that. So, is the procedure to just whack them with a rubber mallet and listen for noise?

Mobil-1 0W/40 is very good oil but it just barely qualifies as a 40 weight and is nearly a 30 weight. The B235 enigne in our 9-5s is tough on oil and 5W/40 weights are allowed by the regulations to contain extra ZZDP anti-wear additives since they are rated for diesel engine use too.

Mobil-1 5W/40 Turbo Diesel Truck & SUV or Shell Rotella-T 5W/40 Synthetic are readily available almost everywhere.
Thanks for the suggestion. I have been a little concerned about the oil pressure when the engine is hot. I expect switching to 5W40 should help that.
 

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You have to remove the thrust washers to get that last main bearing cap out. Not a big deal, usually. They are are on the center main bearing, and when they are out they just look like half circles. Remove the cap, and look up at the underside of the bearing. You'll see the ends of the two washers, one one either side of the bearing (not touching it, just near it). You remove them the same way you remove the upper half of the bearing--you push on one side until they start to move, and then you slowly rotate them around as though they were the outside of a wagon wheel and you were rotating them around a hub. You might have to turn the crank to do this, or you might not (I didn't).

Once they are out, you can slide the crankshaft maybe a quarter of an inch to the side. I just stuck a large socket extender up in there as a lever, making sure to pry it against non-delicate parts of the crankshaft and block, and pried it towards the belts. It snapped over, and the last end cap fell to the ground, so you might want to make sure you have the bolts tightened a little before doing it. :)

My thrust washers were fine, and I just reused them. I hear if you have a standard they are more likely to be worn.

Have you checked the rod bearings, too? All that metal came from somewhere, and it would be a shame to buy all new bearings and discover that the last one you do had turned. You can take all of them off at once, and it will give you practice at rotating the top half of the bearing out. That's really simple once you do it a couple of times, but it will drive you crazy until then. Don't start with the number one bearing, that one is harder because of the serpentine belt pulling up on the crankshaft. Take that belt off the crank pulley and it will be easier.

Clean the sludge out of the whole timing chain area, too. Wash it down through there with some kind of cleaner. In the old days people used kerosene or gas, but get something less flammable made for cleaning grease and oil.

Also, clean the PCV chamber inside the valve cover by spraying carb and brake cleaner in it and blowing it out with compressed air a few times. I got a lot of crud, and even an old o-ring, out of there when I did it. The o-ring went to one of the earlier PCV updates, I think.

All that's assuming you check all bearings and make sure nothing spun. When you pulled off the main caps, did you rotate the crank to make sure the crankshaft journal was smooth and shiny all the way around each one?
Or just grind or file a bit off the tab sticking out like I did and slide main cap 5 right out.....
 
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