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Discussion Starter #1
I recently bought a 2000 9-5 wagon (4-cyl) with 92K miles. When it was running, we loved it. I knew it was going to need a little TLC, but I felt I had checked it out well and was prepared for some work.

One of the first things I did was check if the PVC system needed updating (I believe it does, since the oil filler pipe has a metal fitting, not a plastic one). I was planning on dropping the sump this weekend and checking for sludge. Unfortunately, the car had other ideas.

The first issue was the CEL. I had the codes pulled (P0300 and P1300, if I remember correctly). Since both codes were for random misfires, so I wasn't too worried. I picked up some new plugs (NGK BCPR6ES-11) and found a source for a DIC.

Today, the low oil pressure light came on after about 40min of driving. I first checked the oil level. It seemed a little low, but not too bad. I topped it up and let the car sit for a while. When I started it up again, the oil pressure was fine, for about 10 minutes, then the light started flickering on and off. I immediately stopped the car again and called for a tow.

Based on my reading (of this wonderful forum), I started suspecting sludge. When the tow truck came, we briefly started the car. There was a puff of blue smoke from the exhaust (now I'm starting to worry, I never saw blue smoke before). When we got home, we briefly started the car one more time and was greeted by even more blue smoke (now I'm really worrying, thoughts of replacing the turbo start to flash through my head).

Here is my current ToDo list to finish before the car is moved again:

  • Drop sump and check for sludge. Clean as necessary.
  • Replace the spark plugs and DIC (if necessary).
I know I need to add more to the list, since neither of those items addresses the blue smoke I just started seeing.

Help! :cry:

BTW, here is my new baby:

 

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blue smoke out the exhaust generally indicates turbo. The oil pressure light coming on seems to usually indicated a sludge issue, which could starve the turbo of oil, causing the fragile bearings in it to fail.

Definitely check for sludge, and be ready to replace the turbo, which if you need to, most people would recommend the TD04. Get a quality rebuild and it will probably outlast the car. The swap is not that bad of a job to do yourself.

Good luck!
 

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Good man, you've done the right thing - stopped rather than soldier on.

You are on the right track.
Change the PCV pipes, and clean up the throttle body.
It's not uncommon for these cars to smoke a bit at startup.
Particularly if parked on a gradient.
Clear out the sump, and see what you find.
While you have the downpipe off, you will be able to feel the turbine shaft.
Check for side to side movement - there should be in/out mOvement, but nothing detectable side to side. Also, if you have oil in the exhaust - bad sign.
 

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Drop the sump and report back, hopefully you saved the engine, someties by the time the oil light comes on its too late but good luck, I love white saabs!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Given the fact that I'm having oil pressure trouble, should I flush the engine or should I concentrate on checking/cleaning the sump and checking out the turbo and plan for a good flushing at a later date?

Thanks for the support. ;ol;
 

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Given the fact that I'm having oil pressure trouble, should I flush the engine or should I concentrate on checking/cleaning the sump and checking out the turbo and plan for a good flushing at a later date?

Thanks for the support. ;ol;
Flush won;t clear the clogged screen and as above will probably clog it more
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Quick question regarding the PCV update. In addition to the parts included in the upgrade kit, it it a good idea to also replace hoses 55560445, 55560463, and 9399973 while my hands are greasy?

Anything else I should consider this time? Replacing the vacuum hoses are on my longer-term to-do list, I just need to get it running safely first.
 

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I did my upgrade not long ago. Yes, replace the additional crankcase vent hoses and the check valve that you listed. It's recommended.
 

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Don't look at it as trouble. Look at it as a bonding experience. :)

Big question: When the oil light came on, were you driving or stopping? There's a big difference between the oil light coming on while the car is at speed and the light coming on at idle, especially hot, like yours was. Oil thins when it gets hot, so pressure is already lower then, and that could allow it to seep past seals and valves and cause the smoke, too. Next question, was it making any sounds before the light came on, like tapping or knocking or whining or humming?

Before you crank it again, take off the valve cover, then drop the sump. Look for sludge in both areas. Make sure the cams are wet with oil--that means oil is still circulating. Buy the O-rings for the two pipes in the oil pan, and use the right anaerobic sealant putting it back together. Trust me on this, do NOT use silicone even if it means waiting a few days to put the car back together, because you'll create more problems than you have now. And DO change all three o-rings.

Do that, and see what you have.

The first time my oil light came on at hot idle, I had a big puff of smoke, too. Couldn't tell what color, it was too dark outside. Never did find what caused it, but it could have been any number of things, from a failing bypass valve to a broken vacuum line to leaking valves, and I'm sure a dozen things I haven't thought of.

So, don't assume the worst. Pull off the valve cover first, because it's the easiest. Look for sludge around the timing belt. Then drop the sump and look for a clogged filter and sludge in the pan. And then you'll have both ends open, so you can spray brake cleaner around the timing chain from above and let any buildup wash away. Assuming the sludge isn't too thick, that is.

Just from reading your post, if I understand it, I'd say don't panic yet. It sounds like the light came on when the oil heated up, and that means you're at the early stages of the oil issues and it might even be something simple, like worn o-rings, clogged screen, or the wrong oil. Check it out, report back. And good luck, soldier.
 

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Oh, one more thing. Buy an OBDii scanner. You can get them for fifty bucks or less. It will help you answer a lot of questions quickly.

The two codes you got were for misfires, and that could be the DIC as you think, or something else ignition related. That can also cause smoke. It should be gray or black, and not blue, but I still wouldn't rule it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Don't look at it as trouble. Look at it as a bonding experience. :)

Big question: When the oil light came on, were you driving or stopping? There's a big difference between the oil light coming on while the car is at speed and the light coming on at idle, especially hot, like yours was. Oil thins when it gets hot, so pressure is already lower then, and that could allow it to seep past seals and valves and cause the smoke, too. Next question, was it making any sounds before the light came on, like tapping or knocking or whining or humming?

Before you crank it again, take off the valve cover, then drop the sump. Look for sludge in both areas. Make sure the cams are wet with oil--that means oil is still circulating. Buy the O-rings for the two pipes in the oil pan, and use the right anaerobic sealant putting it back together. Trust me on this, do NOT use silicone even if it means waiting a few days to put the car back together, because you'll create more problems than you have now. And DO change all three o-rings.

Do that, and see what you have.

The first time my oil light came on at hot idle, I had a big puff of smoke, too. Couldn't tell what color, it was too dark outside. Never did find what caused it, but it could have been any number of things, from a failing bypass valve to a broken vacuum line to leaking valves, and I'm sure a dozen things I haven't thought of.

So, don't assume the worst. Pull off the valve cover first, because it's the easiest. Look for sludge around the timing belt. Then drop the sump and look for a clogged filter and sludge in the pan. And then you'll have both ends open, so you can spray brake cleaner around the timing chain from above and let any buildup wash away. Assuming the sludge isn't too thick, that is.

Just from reading your post, if I understand it, I'd say don't panic yet. It sounds like the light came on when the oil heated up, and that means you're at the early stages of the oil issues and it might even be something simple, like worn o-rings, clogged screen, or the wrong oil. Check it out, report back. And good luck, soldier.
Thanks. I was expecting to spend some quality time with my new baby, I just wasn't expecting so much "bonding" so soon. :D

The first time the light came on, I was at speed (a slow 60mph would be my guess). The second time it flickered on, I was stopping for traffic.

As for the sounds it was making, this is my first turbo car, so I'm learning the good turbo sounds from the bad, but there might have been some whirring. I did not hear any tapping or knocking.

The oil sticker on the window claims the car has 5w30. It is a generic sticker (the kind you can get at any auto-parts place), so the oil in it could be anything. I've picked up some Mobil-1 0w40 for it.

Years ago, I used to drive "disposable" cars, so I got very familiar with the warning signs of a normal engine. I've had a few cars that smoked a lot worse then my Saab currently is. I guess I'm just a little paranoid; I don't want my first fix to my new Saab to be a new engine. :roll:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Oh, one more thing. Buy an OBDii scanner. You can get them for fifty bucks or less. It will help you answer a lot of questions quickly.
Budgeted. But, since the local auto parts places will pull the codes for free, it is not at the top of my list.
 

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i ran some sea foam through mine and I think it made a big difference in helping break up the sludge prior to dropping the pan. engine seems to run smoother now too but that could be a factor of the mobil 1
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I've gotten the new plugs pulled, the PO put Bosch Platinum+ plugs in it. Here are the ones I removed:



When I got the DIC off, it looks like the valve cover is leaking a little. Any thoughts:



 

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I'd tighten the bolts to spec on the cover and keep an eye on it. If they're loose at all it should take care of it.
Did you replace those plugs with the correct ones?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'd tighten the bolts to spec on the cover and keep an eye on it. If they're loose at all it should take care of it.
Did you replace those plugs with the correct ones?
Thanks. Yes, I put in NGK BCPR6ES-11 plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I've gotten the sump dropped. It was needing it:







Which brings me to my next question. Are the metal shavings in the picture above anything to worry about? Here is another shot, after cleaning away some of the sludge:

 

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OOOOCH..... catastrophic bearing failure there sorry...

You may be able to save it by swapping in new main bearings, some of us have some not so much....
 
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