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Discussion Starter #21
Having trouble visualizing this, but my gut reaction is the bearing just sits on top.
Agreed. I asked this because i seen a video where a guy put the release bearing inside the sprung, rubber dust cover but this did not look correct to me. I found out later he acknowledged the mistake.

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
So today i managed to get the clutch assembly installed and got as far as bleeding the clutch hydraulics but something does not seem right. Once i torqued down the pressure plate i noticed that I could pull the spacer right out - As the pressure plate tightened down, the pressure on the spacer loosened up. I did not expect this. I expected the fingers of the pressure plate to me more at a relaxed state then where they ended up. see pics. Is this normal.....
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Can anyone confirm is this looks okay or not?
In anycase, i used my mightvac brake bleeder to suction from the slave and then I also had some one exercise the clutch while i loosened/tightened the bleeder but i cant seem to get any action from the clutch pedal. The slave is completely compressed but get nothing when depressing the clutch pedal. No Joy as we used to say in the navy. btw, evertything is new - clutch/disk release bearing, slave, master and line. As well as flywheel bearing and pilot shaft seal on the drive side.
watcha all think?
 

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I think I too had this happen recently and was surprised as I'd not seen it before. I guessed the extra "throw" is for take-up as the disc wears. I had full clutch engagement and have had zero issues with slippage. I wonder if the pressure plate design may have changed in some way.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I think it's gonna be okay. I finally got the clutch pedal feeling very normal. Might even be a little less free play at the beginning of the throw. I kept getting lots of air out with the vacuum bleeder until i realized that with even a 1/4 turn out on the bleeder screw, air was being pulled in thru the threads and spitting back into the vacuum line. Fixed that with some teflon tape.
I should mention that i was not successful getting the pressure plate/clutch/slave/bearing combination into place using zip ties as normally done. I ended up pulling the fly wheel back out and removing the 3 set pins and re-installing.
with the pins out of the way, the pressure plate and slave zipped tied, and the disc loose i was able to slip them all in with out much trouble and loosely bolted in place. The set pins where then hammered back in.
If i ever do it again, the set pins will definitely come out before reinstall.
Thanks for the reply JV, I agree with your assessment. The design definitely changed as they dont have the little tabs where the spacer fits under. now its just a solid circle and they probably did allow more room for the clutch wear.
And lastly, (for Jim) I did not have to re-pin the clutch pedal due to any wear. The only wear on that end was in the master cylinder end fork and that got replaced:)
 

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I hate vacuum bleeding...
Push The T/O bearing all the way toward the front of the car to force fluid back through the line.
 

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Yeah - reverse bleeding from slave to master or pressure bleeding from reservoir to slave are the only good options IMO, and the reverse bleed is by far the more effective. I use a 60cc feeding syringe, takes just a moment.

I'm not familiar with the zip tie approach... I just put the disk in the pressure plate, the slave in the pressure plate, and insert them as a component. The flywheel needs to be in a specific position, but 80% of the time it works 90% of the time. :p
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I hate vacuum bleeding...
Push The T/O bearing all the way toward the front of the car to force fluid back through the line.
Jim,
I tried to push the throw out bearing forward but at rest it appeared to be already, completely depressed.
I'm not a big fan of the vacuum bleeding either mostly because I always seem to get air past the bleader threads or past the hose/bleeder connection. But when your by yourself, its almost the only way (other then pressure bleeding).
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Jv, this is a pic from the well known clutch replacement thread on Saab Central...
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Theres a bunch more pics of it near the end of the thread if your interested.
Clutch replacement thread
I think one of the main reasons to zip tie is to hold the spring loaded rubber protection sleeve depressed during installation. This rubber protector does not appear to be used on earlier versions of the slave and it was not on the one i repaced, so i think this was not a problem years ago.
Anyways, my vert is back together and ready for a drive. Clutch seems to be fine just moving in/out of garage. I still need to take her for a drive to make sure all is well.
Thanks all for the comments and help.
 

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Yeah, kinda where I am at. I get the point, but i guess I came up just putting all four pieces (pp, disc, slave, TOB) in as a unit and that feels comfortable to me.
 
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