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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for any tips or advice on new parts and/or procedures (outside of what Bently says).
Currently, my clutch is working fine and not slipping but i started getting an intermittent pulse or skip feeling in the pedal when releasing the clutch. Happens every so often and seems to happen more when i hold the clutch in for few seconds. So theres that plus the throw out bearing started squealing some months back but did quiet down when i dripped some lube on it. Every few days i have to drip some lube on it to keep it happy.
I plan to replace clutch/plate, throw out bearing, and Slave cylinder while i got it apart. Thinking about doing the master cylinder and line as well.
Any tips or how to's or suggestion on best/cheapest parts etc. greatly appreciated.
1990 vert
Thanks,
 

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Do a search, there are many posts, and I think there is one guy who posted a very detailed procedure, I think it is in the Technical archives. I did my clutch 10 years ago, don't remember who the guy was. Make sure you lube the input shaft, for some reason I forgot to do that and have had rough shifting problems ever since.
 

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Yeah, this is very well documented a million times over. I would highly recommend picking up the pressure plate spacer. Yes, you can make your own for a couple bucks but the real tool is $15 and just works.

 

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Yeah, this is very well documented a million times over. I would highly recommend picking up the pressure plate spacer. Yes, you can make your own for a couple bucks but the real tool is $15 and just works.

yes, always good to have the right tools, but, you can make a spacer with a piece of 3/16 cable from Home Despot. Spend the money on a 4-pack of Funk Brewery's Two Hour Delay IPA, I say.
 

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Yes, do the Master and re-bush the pedal at the clevis pin too (if worn).

The right tool snaps into place and is easy to remove.
 

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Yeah, I've done ALL SORTS of DIY spacers and none of them work as well as the factory tool. I mean, if you gotta then you gotta, but if I would spend $15 any day to save even a minute of dropping f-bombs in the garage. :D
 

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Yeah, I've done ALL SORTS of DIY spacers and none of them work as well as the factory tool. I mean, if you gotta then you gotta, but if I would spend $15 any day to save even a minute of dropping f-bombs in the garage. :D
[/QUOTE
If the spacer is readily available, fine, spend the $15. If not, I used the cable, first and only time replacing a clutch, with no problems. Jlillie may land on the very detailed post that recommends using the cable. I also didn't bother with the "special tool" to remove the input shaft: 10 mm bolt and a flat crow bar worked just fine, also recommended in the heretofore mentioned post.Just saying.....necessity is the mother of invention.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the replies:).
I think i ran across the "write up" mentioned and was reading through that last night:
Clutch how-to write up

I also ran across some vintage Jim where he describes how to fix the play in the pedal using an old exhaust stud spacer (which i think i have):
play in clutch

Well, i'm off to shop for parts.
I already bought a Beck/Arnley slave cylinder NOS from ebay for 50us. Just hope the seals are still good.
I bought a NOS SAAB clutch release bearing some time ago - Can these be re-greased? since its NOS i'm wondering if the original grease as dried up.
Still need the master cylinder, pressure plate/disc.
On eEuroparts i noticed they sell a "pilot bearing" but i didn't see this in any of the how-to's.
Is this needed?....
Pilot Bearing (clutch?)
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Got everything i think i need for just under 200.00 US
Clutch Kit, Sachs, includes disk, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing and alignment tool - 84.00 Clutch kit edit: This did not fit my car. Have to send back to seller. NO GO on this item for 1990 turbo.
Master Cylinder Beck/Arnley NOS 50US Master Cylinder NOS
Slave Cylinder Luk, 48.00US Slave Cylinder
Ring Spacer tool, Amazon, 15.00US.
I think thats pretty dang good:)

Any one think i should replace the crank seal while its apart....even if its not leaking? I"m thinking nay.
 

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The pilot bearing is pretty durable, but it is worth replacing if you don't know when it was last done. It is pressed out of (and back into) the flywheel. You need to use sealant on the flywheel bolts when reinstalling. I think officially they are to be replaced with new, but personally I have never ever done that.

The crank seal is not what I would call an easy job without the factory tool. Not impossible, but it's a big seal and clearance is tight. I never touch them if they're not leaking. In my experience they don't often leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'll replace the pilot bearing since i will have one, and wait and see how the crank seal looks.
Btw, I installed the disti i got from you (JV). Works good and no more oil leak:) Thanks!
 

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Nice! I've only ever had one distributor leak, and that was in the '90s. :p

I've not seen all that many leaky crank seals. Not at the flywheel end, anyway.
 

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Rear crank seals are generally very stable and robust.
If you have an oil leak issue in the area of the clutch/flywheel, the most probable cause is likely to be the rear engine plate (gable plate?).....the aluminium plate that the crank seal is mounted in.
The areas to look for leaks are where the plate mates to the engine block, front oil drain of the head and along the mating lips to the sump/gearbox.
The leaks can be cleared up by removing the plate and cleaning the surfaces and applying aerobatic sealer etc........but the devil of this task is in the prep of the other mating surfaces when the reassembling takes place. Restoring the plate into position "square" (where the other seals and gaskets are not damaged) is a PIA.
As to the clutch task, careful how you handle the flex hose......they tend to perish and let go as well.
Pedal linkages and pedal return spring - helps restore stroke depth.....
Master cyl return spring - look out for collapsed internal spring if the master needs a rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just an FYI - the clutch kit i link to above that i got from ebay did not fit. It's close but the holes are slightly skewed as compared the the original and will not fit onto the flywheel. The clutch disk also looks a bit different.
The eBay auction clearly says it fits my 1990 turbo vert but its a no go. Do no buy. I hope no one else bought on my suggestion. I will update that post.

I ended up ordering this from eEuroparts
Sachs clutch kit
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Any chance you have the wrong flywheel on there? I have been burned by that before....
How would I know?
The only part # i could find on the fly wheel.....
IMG_1088.jpg
(748718 5032)
This does not line up with the EPC which gives 7487184 (number in pic is missing the trailing '4') but probably the correct flywheel?

One of the tattle tails in the clutch kit i received is that the release bearing is very much different.
In the pic below you see the release bearing removed from the car, and a release bearing i bought from ebay NOS which are same (side by side), and below is the one that came with the kit.
also shown is the slave removed from the car.
274846



Also, the clutch discs are different as well (left is from car).....
274848

274850


edit: i just noticed that the new clutch disk is 1/8 inch smaller than the original as well.
 

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That definitely seems like the wrong clutch kit! I was wondering if it was maybe for a NG900, but then the disk is smaller too. Looks like a screw up.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I received my new slave cylinder today and am wondering if the release bearing goes inside the dust cover on top of the spring or does it sit on top of the dust cover top plate?
My original slave did not have this dust cover with the spring inside.
 
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