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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2000 9-3 base convertible with automatic

After a complete engine rebuild and having the automatic transmission rebuilt professionally, I am having some problems on initial road test. (T-5 block with T-7 head and engine management) CCV #6 update.

1) Installed new Saab vacuum pipe for the power brake booster and had brakes locking until I reinstalled improperly. Is it possible the check valve is backwards or the wrong part? Then I noticed oil at the vacuum pump connection but not at the booster (yet). When I removed the vacuum line at the pump, the vacuum was released and therefore the brakes. Any suggestions?

2) Now after 1.2 miles on the tripometer, the car won't move. I had a few issues with it early on not wanting to go into reverse without putting it in drive first then moving it directly into reverse. Now it doesn't want to move forward or reverse no matter where the gear shift is located. New fresh fluid at proper level, between min and max hot while idling in park. Is this a transmission mechanical problem or an electrical problem?

3) The car seemed really sluggish and I assumed it was the brakes dragging, but now I am wondering if it was in the limp home mode. At this time, there are NO dash warning lights on after the car is started. What should I look for? I have a freshly rebuilt SID2 from a 1999 5-door but am now having the unit that came with the car rebuilt in case there are any issues changing SID's.

4) I know the car was designed for the low-friction engine, so is it possible that with the T-5 block that there is such a condition as too much vacuum with the pump? Probably a dumb question, but I thought it might be worth asking.

Thanks for all of your input. This place is great!
 

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what i do when i install an auto trans that i rebuilt is raise the front end put it in drive, car running and just let the wheels spin. no revving. this allows the car idle through the gears and releases the air bubbles. if you replaced the torque converter, there is an extra few quarts that will need added after an initial run cycle, as stated above. i do no0t run the car on the ground until it has idled in gear for at least 10 min. then 3 min in reverse. then check the fluid level. then drive cycle, as light on the pedal as possible less than 1 mile drive time. then check the fluid. if you ran the car low on fluid chances are you burned up the new clutches (not enough system pressure to hold the car in gear causes the clutches to slip) or popped a seal in the suction pump (air in the system is very damaging as it is in any hydraulic system).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
On about four or five starting sessions of the engine prior to any road time, I allowed it to run and come up to temperature and moved the car back and forth in the garage and noticed some issues then trying to get it to go into reverse.

If the type of damage you mention has occurred, wouldn't the transmission warning light on the dash be illuminated? It lights with the ignition on before the engine starts, then goes out after the engine has started, so I know the bulb is good.
 

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You might want to check that the drivers side drive shaft is firmly seated into the transmission. If it's teeth aren't meshing with the teeth in the differential, the car won't move - unless you have a limited-slip differential (LSD)... Ron
 

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Initial gut reaction is you've got a real problem in the transmission.

Might be a simple as low fluid, but I doubt it. Did the transmission rebuild include a warranty?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OBDII reads two codes:

P0753 Shift Solenoid A Circuit Electrical

P0722 Output Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal

Will be checking them and getting back soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Both the output speed sensor and the solenoid 1 have correct resistance readings. I guess I'll need to check voltages in those two circuits next. Would that be the correct method of troubleshooting? I'll be using info from the WIS CD.
 
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