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Discussion Starter #1


this is hot after a 40mile test drive after I replaced tenser and idler pulleys and put on a new Short Belt.


prior to this I'd hear a ticking noise that went away once warm that I thought was a pulley going out, since it was loudest from passenger side of engine, and pulleys felt loose to hand.


Seems like sound has been getting steady louder. Screwdriver-stethoscope on valve cover sounds OK, and no nasty noises. Seems like its EXTERNAL almost.


I think I'll take to highly rated SAAB shop, but I'm interested to hear any ideas.


Got car from curb-stoner who got it from Donation Auction. It had been sitting cold for few days (spiderwebs) when I first started and this sound was not there, and IIRC not there for first 1-2000 miles I put on it.


130K total granny miles on car.


Could this be an ACCESSORY driven by the belt making this noise?


Is it possible to stop the belt by cranking the tenser but leaving belt in place?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would pull the chain tensioner and see how far it’s extended.

you mean the CHAIN, as in digging deep past the snake-belt and water pump?:eek:



Does seem like the tapping/putting noise goes away at higher R's. Unfortunately the throttle is all covered by big plastic airbox and my assistant was AWOL.
 

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Do you have a copy of the WIS? The chain tensioner is behind the idler pulley, in the cylinder head. If the tensioner is extended beyond 15mm, timing and balance assemblies must be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Do you have a copy of the WIS? The chain tensioner is behind the idler pulley, in the cylinder head. If the tensioner is extended beyond 15mm, timing and balance assemblies must be replaced.

Thx, thats a really feature I've never heard of and I've owned a lot of worn out cars. I had a 1989 Toyota truck and when I went to do the chain the tenser was broken but it was running fine (only did it because was doing water-pump and had high miles). But maybe single vs dual cams is diff regarding noise. But noise seems to have come on fairly fast and steady so who knows.


I'll check tomorrow evening.



No, I don't think I have a copy of WIS, but I do have a Haynes service manual.


WTF is a WIS?


But I'm pretty sure I'm just gonna take it to a local SAAB shop, since I've got a few around here. I can sorta wrench but DIAGNOSIS is beyond me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
shop guy (over the phone) said "plugged oil screen" after asking....

shop guy (over the phone) said "plugged oil screen" after asking "how many miles? (130K) and "have you ever had the oil pan off?"


Hmm????


Is that something that happens (to these Saabs) and does it make the sort of noise in my Youtube???


DOES kinda make some sense, because this was a one-little old lady car and was probably sitting for some time, THEN I start "putting'er through'er paces" and dislodged some sludge.
 

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Clogged oil screen is a T7 (9-3) problem. It's virtually never an issue on T5 (900) cars. They have very different configurations - it would be extremely unlikely to be a problem on your car.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Clogged oil screen is a T7 (9-3) problem. It's virtually never an issue on T5 (900) cars. They have very different configurations - it would be extremely unlikely to be a problem on your car.

You sure? Mine is 2.3Liter with A/T.


PS-What oil do you recommend for 2.3l with 130K miles in SF bay area? I've heard that about at that mileage its maybe good idea to go to next thicker oil.
 

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You sure? Mine is 2.3Liter with A/T.
Yes. Only the T7 motors were subject to clogged oil screens. The problem did not affect earlier cars. That isn't to say it couldn't be a problem on your car, only that it's extremely unlikely.

PS-What oil do you recommend for 2.3l with 130K miles in SF bay area? I've heard that about at that mileage its maybe good idea to go to next thicker oil.
Unless your motor is abnormally worn, thicker oil improves nothing. My XR4Ti has 300,000 miles on factory recommended 10w-30. My SPG has 260,000 miles on factory recommended 10w-30. My Suburban has 200,000 miles on factory recommended 5w-30. There is no reason to deviate from factory recommendations unless you have a specific, unusual circumstance.
 

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You sure? Mine is 2.3Liter with A/T.


PS-What oil do you recommend for 2.3l with 130K miles in SF bay area? I've heard that about at that mileage its maybe good idea to go to next thicker oil.

My 2.3 non-turbo was happy with Castrol Edge synthetic 0W-40. Mobil 1 0W-40 was maybe a touch too thin. I don't see why a good 0W-40 or 5W-40 wouldn't work in a more moderate climate.



My engine was still running fine, with no internal work (as far as I know) at close to 250,000 miles. Rust and a failed starter and other electrical gremlins was the cause of death.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
UPDATE:


turns out the noise was tenser pulley grinding on timing-chain cover, and not some deep engine part on its way out:D;ol;. So I had to get a brand new tenser to go with my new pulleys and new short belt mod, which I should've done in the first place.:nono;



So I got new tenser-arm and its all good. Mechanic says there is some "chain noise" but I guess there is nothing to due for now:lol:(nervous forced laugh). Forgot to check the timing-chain wear indicator, but I don't think it would change anything I'm doing regardless of what it says. I guess I'll wait for water-pump to go out.;)
 
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