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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Saab Central!!

This is my 1st post, please help as I'm about to put a fist through my car's window :evil:

The trouble a while ago but I've only been trying to fix it for a week or so. when it started I drove about 2 miles then parked; when I came back to my car it would not start. Over the last few days I've tried to start after charging the battery over night and still only crank and no start. After reading everything I could find on Saab Central have done the following:
-Spark test: using an inline spark tester I found that I have spark on all 4 plugs. I used a tekton tester and get an orange spark.
-Fuel test: I disconnected my fuel filter and when I crank I get fuel spraying out.
-CPS: I checked resistance and it is about 540 to 560, I can't remember exact number. Alldata says it should be 540 ohms
-Starter Fluid test: I sprayed a small shot into the manifold and got the car to run for a second.

The starter fluid test leads me to believe that the problem is in the fuel system somewhere after the fuel filter, I changed my spark plugs during the spark test portion and think they were dry. I also changed my fuel pump so I don't think it's a problem with pressure from the pump, but maybe?

My question is what would cause me to get fuel to the filter but not all the way to the cylinder?
-Fuel pressure regulator?
-Fuel injectors? I can't imagine all 4 injectors failing at the same time but maybe.
-Some other part I don't know about?

Other random information:
-ambient temperature ~70 deg Fahrenheit
-my car probably has a short in it somewhere because if I don't drive it for a few days it struggles to crank
-my alternator is going out, Action Auto Parts tested it in car
-I've never heard my fuel pump prime, even with the hole cut in the floor still exposed

Any advice, information, or guesses would be appreciated. This is starting to drive me crazy and I want my Saab back! I can't stand driving my mom's Taurus any longer
 

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Hello mate,

Only a guess, and from other faults i have come across on other vehicles.

Is the filter new? Could be partually blocked.

Is the filter fitted correctly? I know it sounds stupid, but its worth checking.

Was the pump you fitted new or second hand? If second hand, was the gauze filter on the bottom ok?

I had similar with a Skoda felica fuel filter, ok i know its not a Saab and doesnt compare (its the wife's) but i fitted a filter that looked the same and fitted it in the same position. It turned out that the manufacturer had changed the layout of the internal parts. Looked the same on the outside, the inside was not.

Just an idea.

Hope you get sorted,

Clive.;ol;
 

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Hello Saab Central!!

This is my 1st post, please help as I'm about to put a fist through my car's window :evil:

The trouble a while ago but I've only been trying to fix it for a week or so. when it started I drove about 2 miles then parked; when I came back to my car it would not start. Over the last few days I've tried to start after charging the battery over night and still only crank and no start.
First thing to do is to fully service the battery and charging system..
After reading everything I could find on Saab Central have done the following:
-Spark test: using an inline spark tester I found that I have spark on all 4 plugs. I used a tekton tester and get an orange spark.
I do assume that we do have a good spark......at the plugs.....
-Fuel test: I disconnected my fuel filter and when I crank I get fuel spraying out.
-CPS: I checked resistance and it is about 540 to 560, I can't remember exact number. Alldata says it should be 540 ohms
-Starter Fluid test: I sprayed a small shot into the manifold and got the car to run for a second. This tells me that we do have some(at least) spark, but no fuel....

The starter fluid test leads me to believe that the problem is in the fuel system somewhere after the fuel filter, I changed my spark plugs during the spark test portion and think they were dry. I also changed my fuel pump so I don't think it's a problem with pressure from the pump, but maybe?

My question is what would cause me to get fuel to the filter but not all the way to the cylinder?The ECU is inoperative ??? Or something in this system is not functioning...
A CPS ?

-Fuel pressure regulator? no
-Fuel injectors? I can't imagine all 4 injectors failing at the same time but maybe. very unlikely
-Some other part I don't know about?

Other random information:
-ambient temperature ~70 deg Fahrenheit
-my car probably has a short in it somewhere because if I don't drive it for a few days it struggles to crank
-my alternator is going out, Action Auto Parts tested it in car.... If so, then examine the brushes, these do wear down over 75 to 150K miles.
-I've never heard my fuel pump prime, even with the hole cut in the floor still exposed...... This points to the CPS...Of course, I am assuming that this FP is good and that the installation is OK ....the pressure at the filter bears this out.../
The CPS controls both the spark and fuel.

Any advice, information, or guesses would be appreciated. This is starting to drive me crazy and I want my Saab back! I can't stand driving my mom's Taurus any longer
These things from HAVOC must be considered or, as a rule, assume nothing.
The Ohm measurement at the CPS is but one part of the test, IMO.
This device is a voltage (2.5) generator.
More sophisticated equipment is necessary.
Tech2 ?
 

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perhaps you have a battery that is marginal,even after recharging. also, if the alternator is failing you need to replace it-which i'm sure you know. when you disconnected the filter did you disconnect at the output side? that would tell you if the filter is blocked.
 

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perhaps you have a battery that is marginal,even after recharging. also, if the alternator is failing you need to replace it-which i'm sure you know. when you disconnected the filter did you disconnect at the output side? that would tell you if the filter is blocked.
Correct ye be, John.
The computerized vehicles of this age are very "voltage" sensitive.
Do have a good battery in place when testing things.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Fuel filter and fuel pump are new, I disconnected new filter on output side and had fuel spray so I'm getting fuel upto that point but not to the engine. Could my cps be out even though I got it to start for a second on starter fluid?

I think I'll change the fuel pressure regulator tomorrow, anyone know where it is located? Is this the best way to find out if this is the problem or is there a cheaper easier way to find out?

What's the easiest way to test my fuel injectors?
 

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If you recently changed the fuel filter it is possible that particles got dislodged and have collected in the FPR, causing it to stick open and allow the fuel to flow back to the tank (least path of resistance) vs. through the injectors. Try tapping on the FPR with a rubber mallet while trying to start the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I went ahead and ordered a new CPS from amazon only $60 so what the heck I'll try it. but had a question in a previous reply I was told "First thing to do is to fully service the battery and charging system.."
What does it mean to fully service the battery and charging system?
-I was going to change the alternator to one off ebay but was going to wait till I got her running again. Should I do this now? This won't make her start will it?
 

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I understand the frustration...changing the alternator won't help it start, but making sure the battery is up to suff (maybe get new and make sure it is charged..or borrow one to check). It really sounds fuel related, which could be fuel pressure regulator related if it is 'wide open' not allowing enough pressure to injectors...OR you have some electrical connection loose to the injectors common to all of them. First thing I learned working on cars is "start from the basics...keep it simple...look, smell, touch, listen!" This gets harder with newer computer based vehicles. Problem can even be dirty battery terminals and cable clamps...keeps battery from getting good charge from alternator and engine from getting good voltage when trying to start....and they can look good...just darker color!! Please let us know final determination, and I hope it is real simple and inexpensive.
 

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Hello Saab Central!!
-my car probably has a short in it somewhere because if I don't drive it for a few days it struggles to crank
This one to me says that your battery is at the end of its life span. If it's older than 5 years old, replacing it would be a good call.

Oh, and welcome to the forums!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update: replaced my CPS today and car still will not start. :evil:

I also tried to start the car again with starter fluid and she wouldn't start at all. She almost started but did not even catch. I sprayed the starter fluid in after the Mas air sensor and did not re-connect it before trying to start so tomorrow I will be trying it again with the air sensor connected.

What could this possibly be? Could I have blown a few piston rings?
 

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I had to disconnect the MAF plumbing on my Sierra when I changed the serpentine belt. I tried to start the engine without reconnecting the MAF plumbing and it sputtered a little, but wouldn't start. Can't say with any certainty about the Saab though... Ron
 

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I have the same deal going on with my 96 900s. Never had anything like this before on this car. Cranks away, but no fire.

Todd
96 900s
 

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When I first got my 95 - 900SE I had that but it was intermittant...went through any and all connections I could find...to see they were snug...I don't know which one it was cuz I wiggled everything I found...haven't had it since...???? just a thought!:roll:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Fixed!

I tried starting my car today using starter fluid and the mass air sensor connected and after a couple seconds she started for about 4 minutes then died, suspicious that the starter fluid shouldn't have been able to sustain her that long I checked for fuel on the exit side of the filter and had some spray. I started her again and this time once started I took a stick and held the engine at 2000RPM for about an hour. She died on her own after the hour but that may be because I hadn't yet tightened down my negative battery cable.

I now have an odd new problem which may also be because of the loose battery cable, every time I go to her after she's been sitting for a minute the first time I put the key to the on position (not cranked) the dash lights are super dim and the check engine light blinks and the car doesn't start. If I take the key out and try again everything works fine.

I'll update tomorrow after tightening down the battery cable.

All together she runs better than before changing the fuel pump, spark plugs, fuel filter, and CPS but that's probably due to changing the CPS more than anything else. A great learning experience and gave me a lot of insight into engine diagnostics.
Thanks everyone for your advice, encouragement, and experience!

Now to tackle the other issues:
1) replace alternator
2) find out why stepping on the brake pedal when in park locks my auto transmission from changing gears
3) fix sagging head liner
4) figure out why my gauge lights generally flicker to off
5) adjust handbrake
If you have the answer to any off these issues please let me know!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
odd no start solved! It turns out the loose battery cable did not cause my problem, it was a bad fuel injector relay.
Since I heard the clicking I followed the sound to my interior relay box and could feel that relay clicking and getting hot, I swapped it with my rear wiper relay and after a few hour of errand running the problem has gone away.

Will update on dash lights going out as I fix it, read it may be a bad dimmer switch.
 
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