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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was out earlier to get a video/audio of a peculiar turbo sound (if it sounds like a cop car siren under vacuum expect it to be failing eventually) and hopefully catch the delay in boost. I got on it 2nd to see where max boost was stopping which was down by almost 6 PSI then noticed some plumes when in between 2nd and 3rd :confused: then it just went down hill from there as I babied her the 5 miles home. It was puking oil smoke by the time I got on my street and was not boosting correctly so I dial back the MBC half way home to stop boost.


In the meantime I need to be able to use the car as this happened about a couple days too soon- was planning on getting a TD04 on Tuesday from local yard. I'm wondering if I remove the exhaust turbine wheel will it at least stop the excessive smoking so I can get to physical therapy (about 5 miles round trip) on Tuesday, then hopefully a local yard without getting stopped by police? It's smoking bad enough to get their attention and I'm assuming I'd get a warning the 1st time, not to mention it's gud dumb embarrassing when it smokes like that LOL :cheesy:

Also, thinking if I can get the exhaust turbine wheel off (probably need both turbine wheels off) what would happen if I plugged the the oil feed off? Keep in mind the center section would NOT be spinning (assuming the blades come off) it'd be static without the blades spinning it. Basically it'd be a glorified exhaust elbow.


Any idea which threads are left-hand threads and which are right-hand threads?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Nevermind on removing the wheels at this point in time. Any ideas on just freezing the turbine? Thinking if I wire the wastegate to bypass exhaust, then maybe rig the wheels/shaft to stop from any movement. Maybe remove a nut from one of the compressors, attach something to the shaft, tighten the nut back down. Maybe a strip of metal like metal strapping with perforated holes. As long as the wastegate is open, I hoping force would be minimal.

Thinking maybe get a small section of rubber hose and sleeve the banjo bolt's holes to stop the oil from entering the center section of the turbo, doing the same for the coolant. Would blocking the oil line to the turbo hurt the oil pump? Honestly don't know enough about that.

Anyone following me here? Freeze assembly+ block liquids from entering = smokeless NA car I hope?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
LOL geesh, no love for ghetto T25 triple bypass until a donor can be found? Ugh, so don't want to mess with it. Biggest concern is how the engine reacts to the oil line being blocked? Guess I'm the guinea pig. Might just yank it and pull the wheels to be safe. Off to visit hell for a couple hours :nono;
 

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Pontius:

I don't think you should stop the turbine from spinning. The exhaust gases have to get out. If the wheel doesn't move, they will be limited.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, probably no good that way. I'm thinking of pulling the exhaust wheel which means pulling housings off unfortunately, then just sticking the unit back in for a day or 2 until I actually get the temp replacement turbo in. Even if the compressor side spins a little from incoming air, it won't be spinning anywhere near causing a boom and should permit enough airflow to at least run the engine which I'm going to assume is in the 130 HP zone :roll:
 

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Just disconnect your wastegate actuator arm so boost doesn't have a chance to build up. Others have done this in the past with no harm, obviously you wont have all the power but saves you from any further damage by removing or blocking things off from the turbo
 

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or block the oil and coolant lines and grab an NA header and downpipe from the junkyard ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, somehow or another the 9-3 is NA now :eek: I pulled the turbo, removed the center section, used some aluminum flashing and made a cover where the center section went. It's kinda loud at idle and made laugh when it started as the aluminum pulsated a little. Used 2 pieces for the block off and reused the bolts and the half circle bars to secure it. Coolant line was cut, then a rubber section tied the 2 coolant ports together. The oil line I used a bolt/nut and several washers and tightened it until no oil seeped. The bottom oil return was the same size as the crossover tube coming from the bov recirc, so I used the plug and plugged off the return. Since I couldn't connect to the air filter, (you're gonna laugh) I got 2 old socks, turned them inside out, put one in the other and cut off all but 4 inches. Then stretched them tight over the intake elbow opening and worm clamped in place. Took it for a drive and it felt like a diesel. Up to 2000 RPM was nearly normal, then it just hovered around 2k, but the car still accelerated. I don't even think it makes 105 HP LOL. The turbo was junk. No idea how the blades were still attached as the seals were completely blown out. I'm amazed how loose everything was I checked everything not 2 months ago. Now off to track down a replacement online :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'd only recommend doing this if you're in a similar situation where you can't get a replacement right away and the turbo is too damaged to drive the car, and it's a daily driver.

I ended up buying a small air filter that's actually meant for a carbureted engine. One of those tiny 5" round ones with a cover plate and center bolt. I fabbed it to the intake elbow's coupler. The oil line was a royal PITA. I originally got a bolt and 2 washers and tried to seal the banjo bolt. It worked briefly but started leaking. I got the smart idea to reuse the copper washers thinking it'd seal better. Big mistake as soon as I started the car, it apparently wasn't sealed right and sprayed about 2 quarts of oil all over the engine in a matter of 5 seconds. Ended up just cutting the phuchking thing in half, then slipping a 3/8" rubber hose in the end with a 4" bolt rammed into the hose. 4 worm clamps to keep that from happening again.

Took the car for a 20 mile trip to today. Talk about lame. 4k RPM is about max as it really struggles to go beyond that (think MAX RPM I've been able to get is 4500-ECM seems to of adapted perfectly and is running the car fine). Think the insanely small port feeding the turbine (hot side, need to pull center section and look inside to realize) is too restrictive to get any really high rpm breathing. It's an interesting experiment though. Apparently by having the turbo force air in the engine, it forces much more out of the engine to the point that this extremely small port's restriction is essentially ignored. I'm wondering how much HP it steals from the boosted engine though? I can't imagine the velocity from an over-burdened 1" port is some how a better performance maker than just letting it flow at 2" inch until it hits the turbine. Definitely going to rework and open the inner port on the exhaust as much as possible as I think 100% it's the reason why these turbos have such difficulty boosting past 5500 RPM when a factory cat and down pipe are installed. I'm curious to see how the GT2860RS compressor wheel will work with the smaller T25 hot side, especially after I rework some of the housing. I'll obviously update down the road as I have to get the wheel and rebuild kit delivered, then ship off the CHRA to get balanced.:D
 
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