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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
From doing a search on the forum, nobody has posted anything about if they installed a Motorola T605 Bluetooth HandsFree.

I used to have an IHF-1000 unit installed in the car, that unit was perfect but the unit malfunctioned... the warranty offered to replace it but because the IHF-1000 is out of production they sent me a T605.

For the most part, I still have the original IHF-1000 but I have no remote for it, the remote was what was not working, none of the other unit's remote control is compatible with this unit.

I installed the whole unit but no matter what I do, I am not able to get the MUTE cable to work... it just doesnt do anything.

For a while I thought it was the Etadyne wire or something else, I tested everything and everything was ok.

I went and installed the original IHF-1000, and when I tried to make a call it muted the stereo... but I am not able to get the T605 to mute.

Has anybody tried this, does anyone know what type of signal is sent over the ATT (Mute) cable that makes the Stereo do the Telephone thing.

I did get to try the Stereo bluetooth audio (Which used the input in the center console) from the T605, the audio quality was not that good (Very high compression)... it is a cool feature but not worth it.
 

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Hi,

I'm also trying to install the T605 Motorolla Bluetooth Handsfree in my 2001 93 Aniversary Convertible. So far the unit powers up and everything but no sound at all through the radio, let alone mute. Had an old SE handsfree in it years ago and everything worked perfectly. I'm using the TEL1 Harness 400 129 078 and wiring as follows, anyone got any suggestions?

SAAB HARNESS T605
Pin 1 Ground Black Black
Pin 4 Mute Yellow Yellow
Pin 7 Line Output Ground White/Blue Blue
Pin 10 12v Key Green
Pin 11 12v Power Red
Pin 16 Line Output + Orange

Also, anyone know how to use the CD stacker port as an auxilary in?

Neil
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I contacted Motorola, my problem is that the MUTE is not engaged so the Pre-amp audio imput does not initialize.

This is Motorolas respond:

Thank you for contacting Motorola e-mail support.
We appreciate your request and also we apologize for any inconvenience you might have experienced with your product.

Regarding your inquiry, for the mute option all you need to do is connect the power adapter cable's YELLOW Entertainment Mute Wire to the vehicle's entertainment system’s mute input. This feature is only usable if the vehicle's entertainment system supports an active low, single wire, radio mute signal. Otherwise, the installation may require an optional relay adaptor (not included) or other customization.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When the Mute (Yellow) cable is engaged is when the SID shows PHONE and when the input is changed to the input for hands free unit comes in.
 

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Thanks for that. Yes, I realise that's what suposed to happen. I had put an old SE HCA-20 in the car prior to this install and it worked perfectly for years. Telephone showed on the SID, Mute kicked in etc.

How did you solve your problem or is it still pending? Did you get any sound out of the handsfree through the car system at all?

I had another go at it yesterday and for the life of me I can't understand why it isn't working. Works fine if I hook up the Handsfree external speaker and runs through the SAAB Microphone great but nothing through the stereo at all. I've searched the forum (really great by the way!) but haven't found the answer here yet.

Only thing I can think of is that Tel 1 may have been disabled in Tech II. When I got my car back from the last service they had somehow reset all the options to default (very annoying).

Anyone know if there even is a TECH II option for Tel 1 or if it is just automatic when connected?

Any advice greatly apreciated!
 

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Thanks for that. Yes, I realise that's what suposed to happen. I had put an old SE HCA-20 in the car prior to this install and it worked perfectly for years. Telephone showed on the SID, Mute kicked in etc.

How did you solve your problem or is it still pending? Did you get any sound out of the handsfree through the car system at all?

I had another go at it yesterday and for the life of me I can't understand why it isn't working. Works fine if I hook up the Handsfree external speaker and runs through the SAAB Microphone great but nothing through the stereo at all. I've searched the forum (really great by the way!) but haven't found the answer here yet.

Only thing I can think of is that Tel 1 may have been disabled in Tech II. When I got my car back from the last service they had somehow reset all the options to default (very annoying).

Anyone know if there even is a TECH II option for Tel 1 or if it is just automatic when connected?

Any advice greatly apreciated!
Having TEL1 does not involve any further TECH2 steps.

Try shorting the connector's mute pin to ground, the SID should say "Telephone" etc.

Check with voltmeter if the handsfree unit is properly sending the ground
signal.

BY THE WAY: cable that leads to PIN4 should be BLUE, not yellow or whatever!
 

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Thnks Psychop. Im sure its the yellow lead on this SAAB Harnes and when shorted to ground, yes it does mute and display Telephone in the SID so I supose it must be. Puts out 4.42v DC out of the SAAB Harness mute cable. The Motorola puts out between 1-2v DC waivering. I'm thinking that the Motorola mute line just drops its voltage during a call to activate mute, not connect to Ground like the SAAB mute line needs. If that's true then I need a relay or something that will give the SAAB Mute cable its earth when the MR cable drops its voltage. But no idea where to start with that! Any thoughts?
 

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Check your ground (-ve) connection of the Motorola, it looks like there is a difference between the ground on the Motorola and the HU which is why you see the mute floating around a volt or 2 above ground. I think if you put a resistor between the mute and ground, say 10k ohms (try 4.7k if 10k doesn't work), it should put TEL1 to mute. The other option is a relay.
 

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It won't damage the headunit since the HU is an input. The MUTE output from your Motorola is floating so if you put a resistor between it and ground you essentially pull this signal closer to ground which is what it should do. You can do a simple calculation using V=IR to calculate the resistor value but you need to measure the MUTE output voltage from the Motorola when it is normal (that means no call in progress). From that voltage you can calculate the resistor value to determine how much current you can safely sink. 10k is usually a safe bet for 5V, even for 12V it should be fine.

The TEL1 MUTE functions this way. If you pull the input LOW (ie. tie it to ground), TEL1 will mute. If you leave it tied to HIGH (usually digital 5V), it will never mute. Even if you leave it floating, that means this input is not connected to anything, I think it will not mute.
 

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Thanks for all that Epsilon! I'll try and get a vm reading between the Motorola mute and ground when not in call mode and see what it tells me. With the resister. Are you saying to put that between the HU mute line and the Motorola Mute line?
 

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I have also experienced problems with the T605 mute. I returned the first unit but the replacement did not perform differently - a direct connection between the T605 mute (yellow) and the SAAB mute does not actuate. I tried a 12V reed relay (Radio Shack 275-233 SPST N.O.) but the T605 mute output seems to sink 4mA and energize the relay even when in the logic high state (I connected the relay coil to +12 V and the T605 output, and the through connection to ground and the SAAB mute input - but the relay is energized whenever the ignition is on...)

Any ideas?
 

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ssteele said:
I have also experienced problems with the T605 mute. I returned the first unit but the replacement did not perform differently - a direct connection between the T605 mute (yellow) and the SAAB mute does not actuate. I tried a 12V reed relay (Radio Shack 275-233 SPST N.O.) but the T605 mute output seems to sink 4mA and energize the relay even when in the logic high state (I connected the relay coil to +12 V and the T605 output, and the through connection to ground and the SAAB mute input - but the relay is energized whenever the ignition is on...)

Any ideas?
That's what i was about to propose - too bad.
It would then involve building a transistor stage to drive the relay - too complicated, i guess. Seems like the generic problem with T605?
 

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To Neil,

Put the resistor between the Motorola Mute and ground (-ve). Let me know how it goes.

To ssteele,

Your description of the behavior of the MUTE and your connection to the relay is correct except that your wiring of the relay contacts has to be made this way;

The relay contacts are usually marked this way N.C. which stands for normally closed, N.O. which is normally open and C or Common for common. If I remember correctly, N.C. and N.O. applies when the relay is not energized.

N.O. - leave unconnected
N.C. - connect to ground (-ve)
Common - connect to HU MUTE/ATT input
Relay coils - connect to Motorola MUTE and ground. Make sure you put a diode between the relay coils. Connect the diode cathode lead to the Motorola MUTE signal that is connected to the relay coil and the diode anode lead to the ground signal that is connected to the relay coil. You will need a diode type 1N4001 or even !N4148. Just some common small signal diode will do. The diode is required to sink the back emf from the relay coils when it unenergises so that it doesn't destroy/damage your Motorola MUE signal.

So, when the relay becomes energized the MUTE on the HU is not seeing any signal since N.O. is now closed and not connected to anything but once a call comes in the relay will be not be energised and MUTE on the HU is now grounded. This is the reverse or inverted logic you need to get this to work.

I have included a diagram in case my explanation is unclear. :D
 

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Found the real problem!

The MOT wiring harness is in error - the mute output is actually the orange wire, not the yellow as is stated in the manual. So I removed the relay and swapped the yellow and orange wires, and it works great.

Just had a hunch to look at the behavior of the orange and blue wires, which were supposed to be the +ve and -ve audio differential output pair from the MOT. They and the yellow wire all looked like floating outputs in the non-mute state, but only the orange wire went to ground during a call.

This was my second unit but I was using the harness which came with my original unit. But both harnesses are miswired the same way. Wonder how many of the T605s were shipped with this error.

epsilon93: thanks for the better relay circuit idea. I was using an SPST relay so there was only a N.O. terminal, but the DPST is a better choice. I'll file it away for future reference.

Cheers...
 

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SSTEELE youre a Legend! Just did the same thing and you are dead tight. Works like a charm! Thank so much. And thanks to Epsilon93 too for all his good advice on the relay and resister. Psychop too, very much apreciated!

I love it when a plan comes together!

Now the (so called easy) part of the install is over, I can now start working on pairing the T605 with the Tom Tom Go 910 so I can have MP3 through the car system, of course on the pre 03 models that's easier said than done :roll:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Dude, I am going to try that tonight, it cant be that simple.

I was going to try, I "almost" tried it.



ssteele said:
The MOT wiring harness is in error - the mute output is actually the orange wire, not the yellow as is stated in the manual. So I removed the relay and swapped the yellow and orange wires, and it works great.

Just had a hunch to look at the behavior of the orange and blue wires, which were supposed to be the +ve and -ve audio differential output pair from the MOT. They and the yellow wire all looked like floating outputs in the non-mute state, but only the orange wire went to ground during a call.

This was my second unit but I was using the harness which came with my original unit. But both harnesses are miswired the same way. Wonder how many of the T605s were shipped with this error.

epsilon93: thanks for the better relay circuit idea. I was using an SPST relay so there was only a N.O. terminal, but the DPST is a better choice. I'll file it away for future reference.

Cheers...
 
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