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I recently changed my mounts due to wear, especially the transmission mount was torn in half. I have not heard about loosening before. Although I would not think its such a great idea unless you get the polyurethane mounts from gs.
 

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I haven't heard of that, either. I'd think that if any of them were loose, they'd rattle or you'd have the potential of a bolt coming out and something failing. If the fronts were loose, the engine might partially rest on the subframe, too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Can an amateur DIY, or do you recommend an expert? I'll have them done because I can see the engine jump a bit when gas is applied. Both trans mounts are weak and cracked. The motor mount itself is weak.
 

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Does anyone know about leaving the motor mount loose? I was told that it helps with cornering?
Never hard of such a thing.
I doubt it's true though. With them loose the motor will rock back and forth under acceleration and deceleration, along with shifting hard.


Can an amateur DIY, or do you recommend an expert? I'll have them done because I can see the engine jump a bit when gas is applied. Both trans mounts are weak and cracked. The motor mount itself is weak.
Depends on how amateur you are.
I just replaced my rear and passenger mount this weekend, took a few hours but it was not impossible.
The biggest pain will be the rear motor mount, if you don't drop the subframe you have to basically get it to wedge in perfectly.

This site here is incredibly helpful:
http://photo.platonoff.com/Auto/20050816.Saab_NG900_Engine_Mounts/
 

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Our engines are transverse engines, and as such rock front-to-back, not side-to-side. I can't imagine when the engine rocks that it would increase cornering... Ron
 

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I would say that changing the mounts is moderately difficult. When unscrewing the bolts PB blaster is a must. The bolts were very tight and a bit rusty, for my 116k Saab this is normal.

There is very little space to work with. Make sure you have a few socket extensions. Also when installing the new ones, you may need to jack the engine up or down for the holes to align.
 

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I know some guys would run marine cams in their cars for circle track racing because your engine would run the opposite direction and would then help force the inside front tires down. im not 100% sure if that is true, but thats the only thing ive heard about engines contributing to grip.

to answer your question, i think it would hinder your ability to turn cause if you gave it any power while turning the engine would jerk around and cause extra stress on the tires once the power got to them and would cause them to spin.
 

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I dont know about the whole loose thing, i personally wouldnt try it seems like something would break.

The mounts i think are easy to change if you use an engine lift or support beam. Bought one from harbor freight for $50. since i did the driver side and rear at the same time i took the driver side off, raised the engine as far as i could and was able to get the rear mount in. Since the rear mount was broken it made it easier to get out in 2 pieces but i did have to convince it a little. All you need is the right angle to get it back in.

That is if i remember correctly.

EDIT: Crap i swear i read 900 not 9-3 so i really dont know
 

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I dont know about the whole loose thing, i personally wouldnt try it seems like something would break.

The mounts i think are easy to change if you use an engine lift or support beam. Bought one from harbor freight for $50. since i did the driver side and rear at the same time i took the driver side off, raised the engine as far as i could and was able to get the rear mount in. Since the rear mount was broken it made it easier to get out in 2 pieces but i did have to convince it a little. All you need is the right angle to get it back in.

That is if i remember correctly.

EDIT: Crap i swear i read 900 not 9-3 so i really dont know
900, 9-3, same when it comes to the motor mounts
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks posters. I'll check with my DIY partner and see how he feels about doing it. I won't attempt it alone.

With so much this car needs from being neglected by previous owner, I'm committed to it. I was driving today at over 85 mph and couldn't even tell. It runs so smoothly!
 

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Only thing an engine really has in relation to cornering that I can think of is where it's actually mounted. On RWD cars, lowering the engine and setting it back closer to the firewall will change weight distribution. Mid-engine cars handle really well as the weight is centered in the car. But in FWD it's not so simple. Leaving a motor mount loose will cause violent rocking every time you shift and can damage under hood components, strain the exhaust system to the point of failing, damage transmission shafts, etc.

If you want better control, replace the steering rack's lousy rubber bushings, and add lowering springs with decent shocks and struts. It'll be night and day difference.
 
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