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Discussion Starter #1
My 01 9-3 hesitates if I give it anymore than half throttle in any gear. I have new plugs and have been playing around with the gap not sure what it should be. I had them anywhere between .031 and .039. Are the plugs the issue ? Or should I look into getting another DIC ?

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Basics: how are tune-up items like the air filter and the fuel filter? Condition of the vacuum lines?

More specific: any CEL?

Plugs really should not be gapped and re-gapped, but the numbers you give (roughly .75mm to 1mm) should all work...at least not cause hesitation at WFO.
 

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Basics: how are tune-up items like the air filter and the fuel filter? Condition of the vacuum lines?

More specific: any CEL?

Plugs really should not be gapped and re-gapped, but the numbers you give (roughly .75mm to 1mm) should all work...at least not cause hesitation at WFO.
I already refreshed 90% of the vacuum / boost lines in the car with OEM / Silicone replacements
My plugs were iridiums, and pregapped to 1mm I think ( I didnt change it)
Airfilter is good, and I'm not sure about fuel filter.

EDIT: Just realized this isn't my post lol
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Basics: how are tune-up items like the air filter and the fuel filter? Condition of the vacuum lines?



More specific: any CEL?



Plugs really should not be gapped and re-gapped, but the numbers you give (roughly .75mm to 1mm) should all work...at least not cause hesitation at WFO.
I'll check the filters. No CEL . It seemed like every time I went 1 or 2 mm lower on the gap it would feel a little better for a day or two then it would come back

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What plugs are you running? How are the vacuum lines?

If you have to check the filters, it suggests that it's been awhile since the car has had a basic service...

Replace the air filter and fuel filter. Replace all the vacuum lines and check valve. Ensure you have the correct NGK plugs gapped to 1mm (0.039").

Then...test drive and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What plugs are you running? How are the vacuum lines?



If you have to check the filters, it suggests that it's been awhile since the car has had a basic service...



Replace the air filter and fuel filter. Replace all the vacuum lines and check valve. Ensure you have the correct NGK plugs gapped to 1mm (0.039").



Then...test drive and report back.
Just bought the car not too long ago I still gotta do those things , i changed the plugs after I got and this started happening that's why I just thought that would be them. It seemed to behave better when i used a smaller gap. I'll do the other things and see what happens

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Just bought the car not too long ago I still gotta do those things , i changed the plugs after I got and this started happening that's why I just thought that would be them. It seemed to behave better when i used a smaller gap. I'll do the other things and see what happens

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If the plugs are not NGK paltinum or copper, then get some that are. If you want to go short money, the BCPR6 or 7ES is fine. Gap to .9mm. Do yo have a spare DIC? Is your DIC a factory item?
 

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+1 on get the right plugs. The DIC is designed, and ECU programmed, to operate with the specific characteristics of the specified NGKs and anything else will hamstring the DIC. Is it a genuine DIC (SEM or the NGK re-labelled SEM?).

Air filter. I've had two cars on which the air filter was choking it.

Doug
 

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+1 on get the right plugs. The DIC is designed, and ECU programmed, to operate with the specific characteristics of the specified NGKs and anything else will hamstring the DIC. Is it a genuine DIC (SEM or the NGK re-labelled SEM?).

All it says on the DIC is that "Resistance plugs must be used".


I have NGK BCPR6IX plugs in my car, which are the correct heat range and everything but iridium. Car has run fine for 40,000 km with these plugs.



Given that there are at least two plugs with different composition and electrode design both specified for a 2003 T7 car (BCPR6ES and PFR6H) I think that once you have a resistance plug with the correct heat range, nose extension, etc., the DIC should work with any reasonable plug.
 

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All it says on the DIC is that "Resistance plugs must be used".


I have NGK BCPR6IX plugs in my car, which are the correct heat range and everything but iridium. Car has run fine for 40,000 km with these plugs.



Given that there are at least two plugs with different composition and electrode design both specified for a 2003 T7 car (BCPR6ES and PFR6H) I think that once you have a resistance plug with the correct heat range, nose extension, etc., the DIC should work with any reasonable plug.
"In theory, theory and practice should be the same. In practice, they rarely are..."

MANY problems have been associated with 'equivalent' spark plugs. NGKs are readily available and are relatively inexpensive. Whenever a misfire or similar run-ability issue is experienced, an easy and cheap first step is to 'baseline' the components...

Once everything is running well, one can try equivalent parts.

In this case, the OP is reporting an issue that seemingly changes when changes are made to the plug gap. I think baselining is a good first step.
 

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In this case, the OP is reporting an issue that seemingly changes when changes are made to the plug gap. I think baselining is a good first step.
Agreed. Probably there is nothing wrong with using the wrong plugs. OTOH, using the right plugs is a known-working combo vetted by hundreds or thousands of enthusiasts... why mess around with unknowns? Saabs have been specific about plugs going back to the c900 APC days... NGK or else.
 

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NGK Iridiums are great, my favourite plug, but they don't work well with the DIC.

Get some standard plugs and give them a try.

Iridiums don't even work that well in my non DIC car, I put some cheapy Bosch plugs in and away it went.
 

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+1 on get the right plugs. The DIC is designed, and ECU programmed, to operate with the specific characteristics of the specified NGKs and anything else will hamstring the DIC. Is it a genuine DIC (SEM or the NGK re-labelled SEM?).

Air filter. I've had two cars on which the air filter was choking it.

Doug
+2 on the plugs.

How was your air filter choking it?
Was it clogged or did the filter collapse or was it too small?
 

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NGK Iridiums are great, my favourite plug, but they don't work well with the DIC.
Hmm, in what way? Like I posted, my T7 9-5 has been happily running BCPR6-IX plugs for three years and 40,000+ km. I have a collection of old and new black DICs, and the only one that did not work properly was a junkyard acquisition that had a bit of a misfire. All my other DICs work with no apparent issues. Of course I use the latest revision DIC, purchased new from Rock Auto when it was super cheap. Why not use the newest?

Iridiums don't even work that well in my non DIC car, I put some cheapy Bosch plugs in and away it went.

If that's a 2.3 Motronic, the specified plug is BCP6EV (see, no "R"!). That's a dealer-only plug around here if you go to an actual store; I guess it can be found online here and there. Anyway, I didn't see any much improvement or difference over the platinum G-Power BCPR6G plugs I had in there before.


ETA: for the OP, gap the plug to 0.30", though I doubt that fiddling with small difference in gaps will make any difference to the running. Assuming the iridium plug is a BCPR6, again I doubt that changing that will help. If it's NOT a BCPR6, what is it?
 

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ETA: for the OP, gap the plug to 0.30", though I doubt that fiddling with small difference in gaps will make any difference to the running. Assuming the iridium plug is a BCPR6, again I doubt that changing that will help. If it's NOT a BCPR6, what is it?
Again...when trying to diagnose a misfire issue, start with known good specs. I would not gap the plus that small...stick to the proper plugs with Saab’s recommended gap. If the gap has to be closed, it suggests some other problem...a healthy ignition system will have no problem producing a good spark at 0.9-1.0mm.
 

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Hmm, in what way? Like I posted, my T7 9-5 has been happily running BCPR6-IX plugs for three years and 40,000+ km. I have a collection of old and new black DICs, and the only one that did not work properly was a junkyard acquisition that had a bit of a misfire. All my other DICs work with no apparent issues. Of course I use the latest revision DIC, purchased new from Rock Auto when it was super cheap. Why not use the newest?[/QUOTE]

I'm no expert; the DIC relies on information received from how the spark plugs behave while the engine is running and it doesn't work properly with an Iridium plug.
I have no idea of the black magic involved.

If that's a 2.3 Motronic, the specified plug is BCP6EV (see, no "R"!). That's a dealer-only plug around here if you go to an actual store; I guess it can be found online here and there. Anyway, I didn't see any much improvement or difference over the platinum G-Power BCPR6G plugs I had in there before.
2.3 Motronic, yes. After a few thousand kms my Iridium plugs starting behaving like they where totally worn out.

As I said, I replaced them with whatever was available and now it runs perfectly.
 

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+2 on the plugs.

How was your air filter choking it?
Was it clogged or did the filter collapse or was it too small?
On a 1275 Mini (you'll be familiar with those?) it was just general gutlessness at anything above about half throttle. On the 9-5, mAir matched mReq up to about 1000 then stayed put as the mReq went up to about 1200.

In both cases it was normal clogging of the (standard) filters due to going too long since last change.

Doug
 
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