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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. This might be a silly question but does anyone know what is the minimum clutch plate(s) thickness for a 1990 Saab 900i. I'm in the process of replacing her clutch and wonder whether to use the clutch plate I just retrieved from the broken down Saab I've ben keeping for spares (the clutch worked fine when last driven).
Thanks.
 

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Honestly on something like a clutch I've always held the opinion that if you're going through the trouble to remove it you're best to install all new components. They usually come in a complete kit anyway that is not too, too expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I agree, Jetman. The thing is, I've had that Saab for spares for a few years, and I recall it had a new clutch kit fitted only about a year before I took it off the road. I've just taken the plate/cover/bearings out and it all looks quite good. So I was wondering if I could save myself a few quid aas well as be green and all and do a bit of recycling...
 

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If it looks chunky then keep it, a clutch plate can last 100K miles or 60miles depends on how its used;)
 

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lando1 said:
I agree, Jetman. The thing is, I've had that Saab for spares for a few years, and I recall it had a new clutch kit fitted only about a year before I took it off the road. I've just taken the plate/cover/bearings out and it all looks quite good. So I was wondering if I could save myself a few quid aas well as be green and all and do a bit of recycling...
I'd probably reuse it too then!
 

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I've run used clutches a few times, They are so easy to replace on a c900 that I didnt give it a second thought. Why not squeeze all of the miles you paid for out of it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I just took the 1990 16v 900i for a drive after giving her the clutch plate and bearings from the 1985 8v, and she drives like a dream. Still, just in case the plate shatters or burn after nearly 7 years of sitting unused, I ordered a new clutch plate for £25 (didn't know until today it was possible to get the plate only, rather than the kit).
I would still like to know what is the minimum thickness for a clutch plate though.
Cheers.
 

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lando1 said:
I would still like to know what is the minimum thickness for a clutch plate though.
I do not think there is a minimum specified as such.You have to measure the distance between the edge of the plastic sleeve and shoulder of the slave cylinder.

The 1979-1988 Saab manual gives distance of 6mm for new clutch and 1mm min for worn clutch. But for later version of slave cylinder it gives 9mm for new clutch and 2mm min for worn.
 

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:D Hello

May be the most important is how deep are the rivet from the surface plate . I am always affraid that the rivet worn the flyweel
 

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patard said:
May be the most important is how deep are the rivet from the surface plate .
That's exactly right.
It's possible (often with a student driver) to wear one side of the disc down to the rivets while the other side is like new. A rusty clutch shaft can do the same thing.
Check that there's enough (1/16" ?) clutch material above the rivets, and that the two sides are equal. Clean all traces of oil off the disc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you for all the advice. About 1/16" above the rivets is close to what I guessed.

In the end, as I got the new clutch plate delivered today (Sachs) and it looked too good to shelve, I got to work on the Saab again and replaced the old clutch I'd put in yesterday with this morning new one.

Works even better, except that, and I hope this is just temporary, for some reason the release bearings now whine somewhat a little when the clutch is engaged. As I haven't put the plastic protective cover back on yet, I'm wondering if it wouldn't be good to oil the thing in situ. Anyone knows if using some (red) chainsaw clutch grease would be a good idea?
 
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