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better than a c900 pick-up any day...

I heard you were going to get the front end from a c900 already. That go to plan?
I have 2 suspension turrets including wishbones, springs, shocks, hubs and calipers sitting in the garden ready to be stripped down, i also got the main under engine cross member as that bolts into the lower front wishbone mounts and will help align the towers in the back.

Hopefully the house will have come on enough by feb-mar to allow me some quality car tinkering time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I like the bits saying the radiator is mounted in the front with the pipes running through the original exhaust tunnel and the gear linkage is hooked up with universal joints. That answers some of the questions I had!
 

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I had'nt thought of the exhaust tunnel bit, good plan, i was just going to use braided hoses and run them through the cabin!

Could run a descent sized chargecooler radiator at the front aswell:D
 

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makes the whole thing sound really tempting.. Hmmmm. The routing of the coolant hoses through the tunnel is great ok. Apparently on lotus elises etc they run very close to the driver, and you can burn your arms on them.
If I was you Si I'd get in touch with that guy and ask him for help. The only question mark is over the transmission, it looks like he kept the standard c900 box, though without crazy power I suppose its ok.
 

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Emmett and myself were wondering if having the hubs locked would strain the g'box less as there driveshafts would'nt move about as much., i'm not aiming to build a torque monster, why i'll probably stick with the 8v, it's simpler top end will allow higher rev limit for less cost.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
For much higher power you would brace the box and without the wheels steering you have eliminated part of the problem already. With braces, steel covers, LSD and an oil-cooler I reckon it might hold-up ok. It would be preferable to a 9k or later transverse mounted unit as that would put the weight further back and you would need to do more customisation to get the engine mounts in the right place. And who knows if the engine would even fit between the struts on a c900?

RE: contacting the guy.. I'm sure he's still around but it was 1994 when the article was published!
 

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As regards the driveshafts, I'm not sure how much stress their movement puts on the gearbox. You could fit a stronger diff cover anyway.

I'm still not buying the 8v argument. If you look at any of the mental 8v's, do you think they would have produced more or less power if they threw that much money at a 16v?
A 16v will rev to 7k rpm on the standard top end, if you had a power curve that increased smoothly all the way to 7k rpm, that would be enough of an achievement. But then again this is just idle talk until one of us goes and does it and costs the project.
 

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ejenner said:
With braces, steel covers, LSD and an oil-cooler I reckon it might hold-up ok. /QUOTE]

But if its got rwd theres gonna be the temptation to thrash it in 1st and 2nd :) Mega burnouts, etc. It would be a phenomenal setup though, great traction.
 

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The other good thing i found out rescently is the tow capacity of my NG sensonic is 1600kg, meaning if the 8v was around a 1000-1100 kg i'd be able to tow it about, no worries about g'box failure, just stick it back on the trailer and rebuild when i get home, would prob. make life easier working on it as i could leave it permenantly parked on the trailer at home.

Philb, costs.... 1 cam vs 2, 8 lifters vs 16 which also need to be swapped from hydraulic to solid, 16 ports to be polished rather than 8, 8 springs to be doubled up rather than 16, at £300 a time for a cam, you can already see it making a fair difference!
 

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Si said:
The other good thing i found out rescently is the tow capacity of my NG sensonic is 1600kg, meaning if the 8v was around a 1000-1100 kg i'd be able to tow it about, no worries about g'box failure, just stick it back on the trailer and rebuild when i get home, would prob. make life easier working on it as i could leave it permenantly parked on the trailer at home.

Philb, costs.... 1 cam vs 2, 8 lifters vs 16 which also need to be swapped from hydraulic to solid, 16 ports to be polished rather than 8, 8 springs to be doubled up rather than 16, at £300 a time for a cam, you can already see it making a fair difference!
Oh come on, the only thing I can think of is at least you already have an 8v engine, work with that. Have you gotten a quote from dave baker for a 16v vs an 8v? It all means nothing till you go and do it.
 

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I think his site gives a price guide for 2 port heads and 4 port heads.May not have to replace the exhaust cam on a 16v so that would make things cheaper, and although people have had larger inlet valves it's probably more necessary on a 8v.

If i did go 16v I'd convert the T7 head as i could probably do the work myself, may even alleviate the need for different cams and valves etc.....

Got to get the engine into the cab yet, i'll cross the head when that's sorted.

Bonus is i can work on the engine in the car, wont get wet if it's raining:D .
 

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philb said:
Exactly, if you have the back of the car sorted, I think the engine will be easy :)
Indeed...

And, let's face it, the temptation to need to do 16v vs 32v, 2 cams vs 4 cams is going to be the real problem.

If you've got a motor up the chuff, it's got to be paired with one in the front too... 4.0l, 8 pot, 400+bhp, 4wd...
 
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