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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all...
Initial post for installing Megasquirt on your C900, that be a 16valve or 8valve, turbo or N/A.
I will deal with this thread in steps, using how I did my install on my C900 8valve Turbo '83 as inspiration, correcting what I would do different if I was doing it all over again.
The steps that I'm going to go through are the following, where I hope and believe the other guys on this forum with experience in Megasquirt will add their comments aswell. Best option IMHO is to keep this first post the post where all the information rests. This will provide a great overview, when something needs to be added, all information will be collected into one post. If you feel different, please let me know, I want this to be as straight forward for as many people as possible.

This post will cover the following topics (some to be written by other people than myself, as they are more knowledgeable in specific fields):

* Megasqiuirt, what is it, where can I get it, and what do I need to buy?
- Build or buy?

* Wiring, Cables and sensors, what goes where, and what does it do?

* Installing my Megasquirt, routing cables, selecting RPM-signal.
- Hereunder using excisting ECU (Lucas, LH) and harness in the install

* Setting up Ignition, running ignition-only as a starter
- Tuning Ignition while watching Knock-led and AFR

* Incorporating Knock-sensing and Boost-control with Megasquirt

* Setting up Fuel-control
- Tuning Fuel while watching AFR, knock and boost

* Adding extra stuff (hereunder running wasted-spark ect)





So, the above is my first draft as to what the guide has to contain. You could argue that a manual on using Megatune aslo could come in handy, but this is already available from a different source.

Anything I left out?
I will SLOWLY start to work on the different sub-categories, but I am, unfortunatly, a very busy guy, so we need to work together on making this thread a great one...
Regards,
The Reverend.
 

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Mods, please sticky!

My Bosch LH 2.2 to MS1 v2.2 Installation (Fuel only)


Introduction:
-I had my a/f ratio checked on a dyno, and the JSP stage II chip and trionic redtop injectors simply weren't delivering enough fuel. The decision was made to switch to standalone. This is a recollection of my progress, in which I gathered all parts in advance and spent a week off of work installing the system. Best vacation ever ;-)

Parts List:

-This is a list of parts I purchased for the installation, the price (USD) and where applicable, the source.

2.1L Throttle Body====================================Saabeh================$50
Laptop - owned
LH - MS Connector===================================PaulH=================$200
Intake Air Temp Sensor================================eEuro=================$50
IAT Bung===========================================Junkyard==============$5
MegaSquirt-I Programmable EFI System PCB2.2 w/MS-Extra======DIYAUTOTUNE===========$240
4.0 Bar MAP Sensor===================================DIYAUTOTUNE===========$65
DB9 - USB Cable======================================DIYAUTOTUNE===========$20
Innovate Wideband O2================================NoLimitMotorsport==========$179

*Note: I ordered the MS box with EDIS mods & 4-bar map sensor pre-installed.

Installation:
1) Installing Injectors:
I began by installing my new injectors. They are 60lb/hr Siemens Deka injectors, that are good for over 400bhp. No way on earth could the JSP chip run these. They plug in just like stock.

2) Installing Wideband:
I purchased the Innovate LC-1 wideband controller from NoLimitMotorsport for $179, best deal on-the-net. I had previously welded an o2 bung in my downpipe for the wideband. The sensors are sensitive to heat, so it's recommended to mount them further away from the turbo. Mine is down about two feet from the turbo, in front of the passenger CV. The sensor screws in like a normal o2 sensor and uses the same size bung as stock. Make sure and pull back the passenger side carpet, because the wiring is going to be fed down directly to where the ECU sits. I routed the 02 wiring under the cool-air vent (the controller plug-in sits under there) and through the passenger-side inner fender (where the stock harness feeds through). I had to remove the white vacuum bottle to access this area. From here, there is a rubber shielding that protects the cabin from moisture, etc. Feed the wires from the controller through here (I used a coat hanger & scotch tape) and into the cabin. Solder the Blue & White wire together, and connect it to a good chassis ground. The Red wire goes to 12v keyed hot, I spliced it into where the ECU itself gets power (more on that later). The Brown wire is the actual wideband signal - this will go to the ECU. More on that later.

3) Installing Throttle Body:
-Simply unbolt the old one, and bolt up the new one. I didn't use a throttle dashpot or cruise control switching. You may find that there aren't places for the different vacuum hoses like your old TB - might have to get creative here. Check out the TB before you buy and make sure it has the correct number of vac nipples you need. The TPS plugs in just like the old one, no modifications here.

4) Installing MAP sensor line:
-Another simple one here folks. Run a vacuum line from the manifold to where the ECU is going to go. At the same time, remove and plug the large vac hose from the manifold to the charcoal canister. MS doesn't control it and you'll get a funny idle.


5) Installing Intake Air Temp sensor (IAT):

-MS uses an intake air temp sensor, mine is from a '92 9000 turbo. You must get a bung for this (DIYAutotune has them) or get one from a saab IC pipe (they're pressed in, with a little force they pop right out). With this, you need to weld the bung (jb weld might work) onto your IC pipe. As close to the throttle body as is convenient. Mine was aluminum welded at the same time as my BOV flange. DO NOT simply thread the IC pipe, the walls are too thin and you won't get enough "bite" for the sensor to screw in. After that, it must be wired up. Two wires go out from the sensor, one ground and one to the MS box. I grounded the sensor at the head with the other grounds. I ran the other wire into the cabin right along the stock harness, through the inner fender, etc. You get the idea.



6) Modifying the MS box for use with a Bosch c900:
-There is one hardware mod done to the box to get it to work. It's the fuel pump circuit mod. It's pretty simple - on the MS board, lift the LEFT leg of D7 and connect it to the LOWER leg of R32. That is all.


7) Installing the MS box:

-Here's where IronJoe takes a HUGE shortcut. I purchased a MS to LH adapter from PaulH on the boards. It was well worth the money. PM him (or me) for details. The MS box clips into the adapter which is built from an old Bosch ecu. The adapter then plugs right into the stock harness plug. From there, I just soldered the wideband wire and the IAT wire (which he provided leads) to the adapter. Then it was a matter of splicing into the 12v for the wideband controller, which was done in the adapter as well. Then just plug in the vac hose to the map sensor line and you're ready to go!



8) Installing software on your PC:
-Head over to DIYAutoTune and download their software suite. No-brainer install. Make sure you have a DB9 serial - USB connector cable. You'll need it for the next step:


9) Loading MS with firmware:

-I needed the MS HiRes code for my huge injectors. I downloaded it from Keith's googlepages site and followed the directions included in the zip file. This needs to be done with the key ON and your laptop hooked up to MS. Use the DB9-USB serial cable.


10) Setting up MegaTune:
-If you can find a base map from someone, use it. This will make life EASY. Here's the story - open the megatune configurator and click on MegaTune 2.25. Highlight the version of MS extra, hires etc that you're going to use (should show up if you followed all the directions for loading firmware) and highlight it, then click File -> Activate. Then go ahead and create a project with a name you'll remember (Project -> New). Now navigate to your project, click the + next to the name, and the + next to settings.ini, and the + next to Settings. I used MSnS Extra as my code variant. I needed to set my Lambda sensor to Innovate LC-1 default, and set my MAP_SENSOR variable to MPXH6400A - which is the 4 bar map sensor (crazy boost).

-Now, save & close the configurator. Double-click your MSQ file (base map) from where you have it saved, and when Megatune opens choose your configured project name. From here, you're almost ready. Go to Basic Settings -> Engine Constants 1. Click on Required Fuel... and punch in your displacement (1985), Number of cylinders (4), Injector flow (what size injectors you're using) and Air-Fuel Ratio (14.7) and click OK. Click Burn To ECU and believe it or not, you're ready to try starting it!

11) Starting the car:

-Make sure you have plenty of battery power. That means a jumper battery, a spare, a charger, whatever. You may be cranking for a while ;-). Hook up MS and key on, make sure you're getting readings like coolant temp, IAT, etc. If the car doesn't start, you run the risk of flooding it if you've got big injectors. This caused me to constantly pull the fuel pump fuse and spin the motor over with the plugs removed to dry out the combustion chambers. I ended up fouling the plugs and had to get new ones. Try starting it up.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good write-up, this should be added under the section concerning:
Installing my Megasquirt, routing cables, selecting RPM-signal.
- Hereunder using excisting ECU (Lucas, LH) and harness in the install
I think it MIGHT need a little adding/withdrawing once we get the other articles lined up, so the flow in the post will be good.
This is meant as constructive criticisme, so we REALLY can make something good out of this...
Daniel.
 

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So, are you guys all happy and satisfied with your MS adventures?

I know it`s worth the effort at the end but so far have got feeling (reading on the forums here) that it`s really hard to get it going right. I seems that you have to spend way too much time tuning it up (different maps, logs, values etc.).

I`d be wiling to get MS if I`d be sure to get some basic settings that for sure would work. I`m happy to solder, wire etc but am afraid of stucking on the tune part (my knowlegde is not that advanced on all the techs of injection/ignition).

I`m interested in this thread and clear step-by-step DIY instructions for MS`ing and geting going on MS a c900.
 

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If your engine is close to stock then my maps will work for you. Might want to fine tune on a dyno. Any standalone system is tough to tune when you have not tuned a car before. This reminds me though, must get my contribution to this guide posted up
 

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On a stock car, you are not looking at much top end performance gain. You gain off boost driveability, and better torque on low boost since you have full control over ignition timing. Basically you get the ability to tune the car to fully take advantage of modifications.
 

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Im interested in installing this on my 900 but im a bit unsure what I need to get,
there seems to be so many different types on sale leaving me a bit confused.
I would like to buy it in kit form and build it myself, hoping to use it firstly to control the ignition timing and fueling and further on down the road maybe a few more functions.Also which sensors are needed?
thanks in advance:D
 

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b.c said:
Im interested in installing this on my 900 but im a bit unsure what I need to get,
there seems to be so many different types on sale leaving me a bit confused.
I would like to buy it in kit form and build it myself, hoping to use it firstly to control the ignition timing and fueling and further on down the road maybe a few more functions.Also which sensors are needed?
thanks in advance:D
see post #2 IronJoe explains everything needed. you are going to want to do fuel first and then work on the ignition when everything is up and running good. for ignition go the EDIS route its cheep (mine was $25 for a junk yard) easy and easy to come buy at least it is in the states
 

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Hey guys, just to check, does the 2.1L throttle body need to be from a NA or will a turbo work as well?

Also, can anyone list their specs and post their maps and tuning files so that us 'followers' have something to start with, esp. if our configuration is similar to someone else's existing configuration? Thanks!

li Arc
 

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hey guys.

a friend of mine recently told me, he had a mega squirt II kit kicking about that would be a great mod for my 900s. so i started researching and found this beauty of a thread. i started gathering the other parts needed for this but i'm finding it really hard to find a 2.1L throttle body with sensor.:confused: does anyone know the part number or point me in the right direction?

i have all the other parts and am itching to get started with this.
 

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but i'm finding it really hard to find a 2.1L throttle body with sensor.:confused: does anyone know the part number or point me in the right direction?
Which Cambridge are you in?

If you're in Cambridgeshire, then you'll need to import a 2.1 TB - we didn't see 'em, we got the LPT instead.
If you're in Massachusetts, then you should be able to find one locally fairly easily - all 16v non-turbos in the US are 2.1s, IIRC.
 

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If you're in Cambridgeshire, then you'll need to import a 2.1 TB - we didn't see 'em, we got the LPT instead.
If you're in Massachusetts, then you should be able to find one locally fairly easily - all 16v non-turbos in the US are 2.1s, IIRC.
If you're in Cambridgeshire then fit a throttle potentiometer off of any Lucas equipped Saab 900 1990-1993
 

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If he's in Cambs, then his 900S will be an LPT, so will be Lucas anyway...
Very true

But it was you who said
If you're in Cambridgeshire, then you'll need to import a 2.1 TB - we didn't see 'em, we got the LPT instead.
First
 

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If someone had, say, a MegaSquirt ECU that was made for a VW 1.8t, would you be able to use the ECU on one of our classics? I realize the harness wouldn't be swappable, but if the box would be... :cheesy:
 

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If someone had, say, a MegaSquirt ECU that was made for a VW 1.8t, would you be able to use the ECU on one of our classics? I realize the harness wouldn't be swappable, but if the box would be... :cheesy:
The box isn't in any way "engine specific". It's the fuel and/or ignition map - which you program into it with the megasquirt software and a laptop - that's engine specific.
 
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