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Discussion Starter #41
Exactly, with the crank on time, install the cam locks, install the chain on the cam sprockets, and install the sprockets into camshaft and tighten as simple as this, then install timing chain tensioner and activate it (i assume u already deactivated it before installation)
I have a new deactivated tensioner, yes. Since the timing chain has 2 black links and 1 gold link, where are those links supposed to be placed? On other Ecotect engines the cam sprockets are marked with arrows and the sprockets are also indexed for the camshafts, but not on the B207. Normally the gold link would be placed on the intake cam sprocket but since I don't have a mark...
 

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It doesnt matter where the links go on the B207 as the cam sprockets are not locked to the cam.
Not the case for the balance chain though, the links on the balance chain go into a specific location
 

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Discussion Starter #43
It doesnt matter where the links go on the B207 as the cam sprockets are not locked to the cam.
Not the case for the balance chain though, the links on the balance chain go into a specific location
Ok gotcha, that's what I figured. And yes I know the balance chain links need to align with the balance gear marks, thank you. So basically, as long as the cam locking tools are in place and the crank is in the correct position, I can install the sprockets and chain without worrying about marks, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Well lookie here guess what I found? Water pump gear bolt had come loose all on it's own. WOW. That is disconcerting.

 

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nice catch. Who did the last water pump?

Tip on tightening crank bolt , mentioned in earlier posts:
-yes, an impact gun is the tool of choice if you can get a clear shot. I sometimes worry about beating up the thrust bearings on the crankshaft.
To do it by hand:
I used to do timing belts on rear wheel drive cars. We would use a big chain wrench on the pulley to hold it in place. Then torque it with a torque wrench. You wrap a cut section of the old belt around the crank pulley to prevent marring the surface.

The best mechanic I knew had done everything wrong at least once. Don’t beat yourself up!


Well lookie here guess what I found? Water pump gear bolt had come loose all on it's own. WOW. That is disconcerting.

 

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Discussion Starter #49
nice catch. Who did the last water pump?

Tip on tightening crank bolt , mentioned in earlier posts:
-yes, an impact gun is the tool of choice if you can get a clear shot. I sometimes worry about beating up the thrust bearings on the crankshaft.
To do it by hand:
I used to do timing belts on rear wheel drive cars. We would use a big chain wrench on the pulley to hold it in place. Then torque it with a torque wrench. You wrap a cut section of the old belt around the crank pulley to prevent marring the surface.

The best mechanic I knew had done everything wrong at least once. Don’t beat yourself up!
Thanks. I have no idea if the water pump was ever replaced. I would guess so though. Really bizarre that a bolt THAT important would just come loose on its own. Anyway, I'm installing a new oem water pump that already has the sprocket attached so I won't be touching those bolts.
 

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Just got done with this job two days ago. I know I'm new to the site, but if you run into weirdness everything I did is still fresh in the ol dome. I ended up changing all my sprockets just because I was at 150k miles, and specifically on the cam sprockets bought the cloyes set for the match marks for intake and exhaust. Also, if you're putting on the timing tool I would spring to have replacement bolts for the caps ready just in case. I know it's not necessarily required, and I might be paranoid, but I have bad history with reusing hardware.
 

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The cap bolts are torqued to a very low value, if u over torque them u break them .
The marks on the cloyes sprockets does not match the original saab timing settings, note that saab has 4 different versions of timing setup for each engine code and year group .
 

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The cap bolts are torqued to a very low value, if u over torque them u break them .
The marks on the cloyes sprockets doe not match the original saab timing settings, note that saab has 4 different versions of timing setup for each engine code and year group .
Yeah you need cylinder 4 TDC for the cloyes sprockets vice 1. Otherwise it’s pretty cut and dry. In regards to the bolts I agree, however any time I do any maintenance I buy half the quantity of hardware I’ll be removing just as a precaution. Not saying that should be standard practice, just my personal habits.
 

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The timing marks on the cloyes cam sprockets does not mean anything on saab, they might get the engine running, but it will never get the timing setup 100% correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Slowly getting everything back together. Balance/timing stuff is all done and buttoned up. Good call on the camshaft holding tools Hus_sho - you were right, they aligned the camshafts to exactly where they needed to be, a millimeter different from where I had them.

Discovered somebody had previously stripped the threads on one of the thermostat housing bolt holes, so I'm going to need to drill out and fix with an M6 Helicoil (they had used a nut to shorten the bolt but I don't like that). Also swapping the turbo CHRA with a reman'd OEM Mitsu unit.

Any tips on how to ensure no air is trapped in the cooling system? Will the water pump burp the system on it's own?
 
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There is no issue bleeding the cooling system on these, fill it up and let it set a bit and keep filling until it drops no more, then start it and it might drop the first minute so top it up then close it, let it warm up until fans kick in, next morning top it up to the mark.
 

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Many people set timing visually and the car will run fine at least for the average driver, but if u want 100% performance and specially if ur car is tuned or u r planning to tune it, then no way around the timing tool, there are 4 different versions of these tools for B207E/L/R before or after 2007, and all of them will set the camshaft just 3-4 degrees different, u would use the wrong tool and the car will still run fine 🤣🤣🤣
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Do you recommend turning the crankshaft by hand with the pulley to verify timing after using the camshaft tools? Or no need as long as tools were used and crankshaft pulley mark was lined up with timing cover mark?
 

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Not really related, but thought I'd share.....One of the most pleasant surprises to this "first time Saab'r" was the cooling system refill. After struggling with a "dead" Saab, and navigating a very steep learning curve, it was ONLY through the help of this forum (specifically the knowledge and patience of member "Hus_sho") that I was able to succeed in rescuing this noble automobile. After a little "coolant system" work I was dreading the worst as far as "bleeding" the system.....surely there would be an ABSM (air bubble sensor module) and a CLDU (coolant level detection unit) that would have to be calibrated and re-married to each other, then to the ECU and then to the CIM, all through the Tech2, or the car wouldn't start (I'm being sarcastic, of course ;{) lol) Simplest coolant fill and bleed system I've EVER seen!! My son has an '04 GMC Safari conversion van. Talk about a nightmare cooling system. Crackin lines at temperature, vehicle running, trying to get the air out....good times.....not to mention the MESS! Hard to believe the same corporation, GM, is responsible for both. Although, I'm guessing Saab had it figured out long before GM stumbled onto the scene.
 
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