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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Are there any cons at all to an MBC+A? I really want to save the $80 but I am just itching to get one. :cheesy:

Will it decrease the lifespan of my turbo? Increase probability of failure in any way? I have a Forge bov now, will I have to buy a new spring/adjust it, or is the stock setting ok for the increased boost? (probably a stupid question because it holds boost fine at WOT in 5th)

Also, if by chance I do end up getting it, how will I know if I'm hitting fuel cut? Will the rpms just drop, or how will I know to turn the mbc down?
 

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There are a number of potential issues but in practical use these have not been a problem. First is that the Trionic no longer has any control over boost so if detonation occurs it cannot reduce boost and engine damage will occur - in practice the trionic system can increase fueling and reduce timing before any damage can happen within stock boost levels - you must however be sure your engine is in good condition and that stuff like fuel pressure, spark plugs, DI etc are 100% working - it's also a good idea to only run premium fuel. The other issue is that the turbo will spool in a very fast and unrestrained manner which means a potential hard and fast tourque load is put through the transmission at low rpms and this can cause wheel hop which can be fatal for the diff. You need to learn to moderate power with the right foot. As for setting it up - there are detailed instructions included with the unit and on the website and you will know when you hit fuel cut - the car looses power in a quite violent manner.
 

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Shirozina said:
blah blah blah blah.

Aside from hitting fuel-cut, and shortening the life of your motor-mounts if you don't adjust it correctly, the only risk you run is if you don't run 93 like you're supposed to. of course, you should never modify a motor that is not well taken care of.

The injection system of a NG900/9-3 is more than adequate for a stock ECU/turbo and MBC.
 

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G96nt said:
Aside from hitting fuel-cut, and shortening the life of your motor-mounts if you don't adjust it correctly, the only risk you run is if you don't run 93 like you're supposed to. of course, you should never modify a motor that is not well taken care of.

The injection system of a NG900/9-3 is more than adequate for a stock ECU/turbo and MBC.
Blah Blah Blah Blah...... and Blah
 

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you should get a boost guage too
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
patty AT forge said:
Which model valve is it and what colour is the spring?
I have the Forge from genuinesaab...not sure which spring is in it, but it's the one it came with.

So far I haven't heard anything too bad that I should be worried about, so if all goes well it looks like I'll be getting one. Does anyone know about how much hp/torque the mbc+a adds on average?
 

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G96nt said:
Aside from hitting fuel-cut, and shortening the life of your motor-mounts if you don't adjust it correctly, the only risk you run is if you don't run 93 like you're supposed to. of course, you should never modify a motor that is not well taken care of.

The injection system of a NG900/9-3 is more than adequate for a stock ECU/turbo and MBC.



I agree 100%.


Well put.
 

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KSpark said:
Does anyone know about how much hp/torque the mbc+a adds on average?
20+ hp and torque on average i believe give or take a few plus reduced turbo lag
 

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KSpark said:
:eek:

With just a MBC+A? On a stock T25 turbo?


That's a bit optimistic.


I would maybe plan on a 20/20 bump, depending on what kind of shape your car is in.
 

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Yep. Only mod was MBC and K&N
228HP 250lb/ft


this is on a HOT, though.
 

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Notice the sig "I'm on trans #3" :) Would this be due to the unrestrained torque from bypassing the ECU?
 

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Trans 1 popped because it was the original fluid @ 130k (shouldn't have assumed the p/o kept up with fluid changes), and I was racing it.

Trans 2 was from wheel-hop at the top of 2nd (completely my own fault)

Nothing to do with the MBC....
 

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So what is this wheel hop of which you speak ?
does a steering brace stop this said hopping of the wheels ?
I sure I to must also get wheel hop but nothing broken as yet.


G96nt said:
Trans 1 popped because it was the original fluid @ 130k (shouldn't have assumed the p/o kept up with fluid changes), and I was racing it.

Trans 2 was from wheel-hop at the top of 2nd (completely my own fault)

Nothing to do with the MBC....
 

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mine's because I'm in desperate need of motor-mounts, and I was running on bald-ish tires.

Wheel hop is when your tires are losing/gaining grip and literally bounce as they look for traction. It's about the quickest way to 'splode a diff there is.

best way to avoid it is secure motor-mounts, and well-sorted suspension.
 
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