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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1987 Saab 900 SPG. It's a 16valve b202 2.0t of course.

Anyways I recently purchased the car to restore and become a daily eventually... I am having no second thoughts but there are some hiccups I'd like to fix right off the bat.

-fuel gauge not working? I have checked the connections haven't pulled the unit yet... Don't know if there is a fuse for the sending unit.??? If there is where would it be?
-temp gauge not working... Where is the fuse or relay wire for the temp gauge?

- I bought a distributor to replace my bunk one. After install I come to find that the black brown and green connector doesn't fit in connection port. Can I splice a connector that fits in place of the one which doesn't?

I'm a new 900 owner and taking on quiet the project.

So far I have replaced the head with new gaskets. Replaced the exhaust manifold gasket. Custom built the grille on down times. I have a set of 9000 wheels painted and ready to be put on. I haven't had much time to tackle the rust and repaint the car but I'm getting there.

I am planning on custom parts pipes.... A overhaul of the dash, VDO gauges....
Holset Turbo with a SD tune...

Any help on my questions would be great.
 

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I have a 1987 Saab 900 SPG......I have a set of 9000 wheels painted and ready to be put on.
Well, that part won't work.

If both gauges don't work, it might be an instrument connector (the white ones you can wiggle through the speaker opening).

What kind of distributor is it? As I recall, the SAAB 1987 900s all have the same (lousy) connector. In general, you can make the 3 wires work.
 

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They changed the hub from 114mm to 108mm on the 900 for 1988. The 9000 was always 108mm. There is a chance they fit, as some 87's were somewhere inbetween, but measure it or throw it on and you'll know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'll have to look tomorrow morning... I was told there are two different models 07 and 08...?

I was also told the 16aeros should fit fine... More a matter of correct tire size.

I'm going to check the thermo tomorrow morn. From what I saw in the boot. The VDO sending unit had corrosion on the connector. I'm betting that may be an issue but... I'm learning.
 

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early turbo dizzy's had a round shape connector to the side where the later had a oblong one, not sure if same amount of wires etc, just remember having one I took of a car I broke, and when I wanted top replace a later 900 one I had it was no good
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Other questions for my weekend adventures...

If relocating the intake pipe... How difficult is it to take out the cruise control unit entirely?

I am having some custom pipes made either this week or next for direct airflow and less round about in and out. Intake pipe, intercooler pipes direct from the throttle to a front mount...

If I disconnect the cruise are ther fuses which need to be pulled? Any lights attached with the cruise module that will indicate irregularities in the engine performance?

I also plan to relocate the battery Under the back seat... A good place? Not much breathing room or air circulation... I was thinking of in and out ducts from the engine bay down and out through the back seat or under neath the vehicle to distribute the heat accumulation? Just an idea at the moment.

Also what is the coolant capacity? My work book hasn't arrived yet
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks!!!

Took me 4 days of dremeling, sanding...

In regards to my distributor issue: I re-wired... Fired up after re positioning. It fired up but with little power. The acceleration was minimal and would slowly die eventually...?

I'm going to play around with the positioning of the distributor tomorrow and see if that changes the power output
 

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Thanks!!!

Took me 4 days of dremeling, sanding...

In regards to my distributor issue: I re-wired... Fired up after re positioning. It fired up but with little power. The acceleration was minimal and would slowly die eventually...?

I'm going to play around with the positioning of the distributor tomorrow and see if that changes the power output
Timing will affect power output. It can also damage your engine if wrong. Why don't you just time it properly, 16°BTDC. You will find a link if you look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks!!!

Took me 4 days of dremeling, sanding...

In regards to my distributor issue: I re-wired... Fired up after re positioning. It fired up but with little power. The acceleration was minimal and would slowly die eventually...?

I'm going to play around with the positioning of the distributor tomorrow and see if that changes the power output
Timing will affect power output. It can also damage your engine if wrong. Why don't you just time it properly, 16°BTDC. You will find a link if you look.
I don't have the timing tools which is why I mention my use of tools to be "playing" ... When it is right I am taking it in but as of the present I have little or no acceleration. I have a start but a want to die from idle. I believe at this point it will be curable by correctly positioning the distributor while at idle so the cylinders far in time...

The battery light has since come on and the red box next to it also has become a new thing?
 

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I don't have the timing tools which is why I mention my use of tools to be "playing" ... When it is right I am taking it in but as of the present I have little or no acceleration. I have a start but a want to die from idle. I believe at this point it will be curable by correctly positioning the distributor while at idle so the cylinders far in time...

The battery light has since come on and the red box next to it also has become a new thing?
There is a notch on the circular, dizzy locking collar. When this notch lines up with the edge of the cylinder head/engine block (where the gasket is), you will be very close to having correct timing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I don't have the timing tools which is why I mention my use of tools to be "playing" ... When it is right I am taking it in but as of the present I have little or no acceleration. I have a start but a want to die from idle. I believe at this point it will be curable by correctly positioning the distributor while at idle so the cylinders far in time...

The battery light has since come on and the red box next to it also has become a new thing?
There is a notch on the circular, dizzy locking collar. When this notch lines up with the edge of the cylinder head/engine block (where the gasket is), you will be very close to having correct timing.

Any idea on the battery light and the red rectangular box next to it? Those were not on before...
 
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