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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well just got done and the engine is going in today. I put together list of what you need from each engine and what it takes. i think I have it all covered. Found stuff out by reading lots of posts and talkgin to people people ( wpressley, and few others)

Put it all in one place for future reference:

I just built one and am installing it now. Use the T7 head and all the lowers from a 94 9000.
Few Tidbits to make it easier if you try…
Only 94 and above blocks work.

You need to use the 9-5 timing gear/balance chains and all. It might be easier just to pull the balance shafts and plug the holes, genuinesaab makes the plugs. It makes it much cheaper and you don't have to fiddle with the differences in balance shaft gears. But in case you want to keep them you need to know that the obd II cars ( 96 and above I think ) use the same balance shaft bushings and gears as the 9-5 but the earlier ( 94-95) 9000 OBD I Balance shaft gears are different, all the other bits work no matter the year ( 94 and above). The balance gears on the non- 0bdII have a bit of a sleeve on them that help them clear the obdI balance shaft bushing collar.

You need to move the oil pressureswitch to the other port in the rear of the block ( under where the starter is) and move the plug over

You use the 9-5 timing cover and oil pump. It would be nice if the 9000 pump worked here but it won’t fit into the housing. If you can figure out how to use the 9000 timing cover ( and I will try in my next one) good for you, you get the higher capacity 9000 pump.

You need to use the 9-5 oil pan, you will need to remove the alignment pin in the 9000 block.

You need to use the 9-5 dip stick tube. To do that you need to remove the barbed sleeve in the dip stick port of the 9000 block. The 9-5 tube fits in there with a new o-ring.

You keep the entire lower 9000 rotating assembly, crank, pulley, rods pistons. They are not as good from a geometry pint of view, the pistons are heavy, and bigger and it has shorter rods, which means more rotating mass and larger rod angles not good for hi RPM but the pistons are beefier.

Use the 9-5 crank pulley and balancer


You must use a 9000 head gasket, it is thicker and necessary to get the proper valve clearance, otherwise you will hit the valves. The 9-5 pistons have valve indents to help here. Don't worry if the headgasket looks like it covers some of the water ports it the head it will still flow fine and get plenty of cooling.

You will need to use the 9-5 235 oil filter attachment housing, the 9000 has oil cooling lines oriented in the wrong direction for the 9-5 oil cooler

You need to use the 9000 intermediate oil galley pipe that goes from the oil filter housing to the block. The 9-5 one is flared and will not fit. Use the same o-rings in each.

Use the 9-5 intake. If you want to swap to a later or Aero model intake remember that the earlier models have a bit of a different MAP pressure sensor and the injectors are different on the air injected 99 models.
You need to use the 9-5 flywheel.

That’s about it I think.
 

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hey great info here! I'd love to someday do a project like this myself, just trying to gauge difficulty and time is something that would be hard for me.

any word on performance specs of the build?
 

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Wow, this is something i would never dare to do myself but great you got it. Agree with ivanwakeup.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
hey great info here! I'd love to someday do a project like this myself, just trying to gauge difficulty and time is something that would be hard for me.

any word on performance specs of the build?
Wow, this is something i would never dare to do myself but great you got it. Agree with ivanwakeup.
I actually did not do any performance realted work to the motor except balancing the rotating assembly and removing about 5 lbs from the flywheel.

I was able to cobble together a motor from 9-5 Aero parts and a 9000 Aero bottem end for 300 bucks. + new parts for about $600 total I got complete engine, then a grand of machine work. So I got a completely rebuilt engine for 1600 ( as oppposed to buying a used one for the same abount. It should also handle all the turbo I can throw at it without spending on forged pistons ( at least that was my intent)

I am mating it with a T28 Turbo and it should ( as the other engine ) but down about 290WHP. We shall see after the break-in perios.

Then I am adding a GT3071 RS.
 

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I actually did not do any performance realted work to the motor except balancing the rotating assembly and removing about 5 lbs from the flywheel.

I was able to cobble together a motor from 9-5 Aero parts and a 9000 Aero bottem end for 300 bucks. + new parts for about $600 total I got complete engine, then a grand of machine work. So I got a completely rebuilt engine for 1600 ( as oppposed to buying a used one for the same abount. It should also handle all the turbo I can throw at it without spending on forged pistons ( at least that was my intent)

I am mating it with a T28 Turbo and it should ( as the other engine ) but down about 290WHP. We shall see after the break-in perios.

Then I am adding a GT3071 RS.
sounds good. do you have an estimate on total hours it took to complete the project? what sort of tools and workspace do you normally have access to?
 

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How does one tell the difference between a 9000 engine that will work and one that is too old? I am looking for a 9000 block from some local buy and he says they are out of a 94, but I don't really trust him.
 

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How does one tell the difference between a 9000 engine that will work and one that is too old? I am looking for a 9000 block from some local buy and he says they are out of a 94, but I don't really trust him.
Maybe there is a serial number on the block somewhere?
 

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If it is red it definitely won't work. I can't remember the rest of the long block details. Asking in the 9000 would probably get you a definitve answer.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If it is red it definitely won't work. I can't remember the rest of the long block details. Asking in the 9000 would probably get you a definitve answer.
If what's red, the block? If you meant T5 then T5 blocks are ok, any 94+ will \work except for the balance chain difference noted above for OBD I engines untill 1996 ( these parts need to stay as 9000)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Been driving ther car now. I like the feel you get with the lightened flywheel and it runs so smooth now, balancing was a good idea....

Wating for 1000 miles before I get to open her up
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update.

A few new items the oil galley pipe from the 9000 is only needed from an OBD I engine, reports are in later engines (OBD II) the 9-5 one will work.

Alos, I had the rear main seal leak. did not have time to fix it myself so I paid ( good deal actually 600 bucks) to have it done. Seems the very good quality aftermarket - the machinist told me it looked good- from Gihrling did nto hold. It seems the aftermarket seal seals closer to the front of the engine suftace than the OEM, which goes deeper. That's a 600 miststake I don;t want anyone else to make. ( to save 10 bucks on teh seal)

Other than that, once I get my tune set up I will report back. Just replaceing the injectors and we are ready to go.
 

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js,

Thanks for this post. It should be stickied. I, like ivan and probably many others, are toying between the idea of a t5/t7 crossover or just going the forged route. The forged pistons are *only* $520 w/ rings and pins, I believe, Unless you buy JE's 'special sauce coating', which adds like $150.

All things considered, and since I do not have a 9000 block laying around, I will probably just build the b235r in the car. Your information, collecting it in ONE place, is very good -- I've also been scouting around, trying to get everything together to weigh in on forged vs. t5/t7 merger!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
js,

Thanks for this post. It should be stickied. I, like ivan and probably many others, are toying between the idea of a t5/t7 crossover or just going the forged route. The forged pistons are *only* $520 w/ rings and pins, I believe, Unless you buy JE's 'special sauce coating', which adds like $150.

All things considered, and since I do not have a 9000 block laying around, I will probably just build the b235r in the car. Your information, collecting it in ONE place, is very good -- I've also been scouting around, trying to get everything together to weigh in on forged vs. t5/t7 merger!
My orgina post is stickied not the thread that's why I added the update here.

9000 blocks are cheap and more availalble ( since so many 9-5 are crapped, including mine) got min efor 250 I think


But I have heard that teh longer rod lighter piston affords the car a better geometry, maybe a tad mor torque? on the 9-5 vs the 9000.
 
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