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Discussion Starter #1
I noticed that my MPG according to the SID is about 20.5 mpg :(
I do city/highway driving and my driving habit has not changed in the last few weeks. The MPG used to read 24 mpg (I know even 24 is on the lower side)
I used to do the math to find MPG and noticed that the SID isnt far off, so stick to the SID.
I havent changed the fuel filter yet, how bad does it affect the MPG ?
Its the 2.5 v6 at 96K.
Also, just last month i had the sparks replaced.

Thanks :)
 

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The fuel filters are very well designed and can handle a large amount of crud. The pressure might drop a little if contaminated but I don't think its enough to significantly affect mileage. It's not difficult or expensive so replacing it is not a big issue.
 

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I'd think that if the fuel filter is changed under the scheduled maintenance set up, every 60K miles - or something reasonable, that the MPG and performance should NOT be affected...

My old, ex-method was to leave the filter in until the vehicle stopped running - usually 50,000 miles... these were the little easy to change filters from the good old days.. $1.95 , 5 minutes labor...
So, at 40,000 miles, the performance could be affected..hope this is correct:cheesy:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, I am going to replace the Fuel filter. I even sprayed some lube... prep work. I just havent bought the filter yet :cheesy:
 

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I agree with everyone. Fuel filter is rarely the problem for engine problems.

Check the air filter, spark plugs, and vacuum hoses for leaks.
 

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earthworm said:
I'd think that if the fuel filter is changed under the scheduled maintenance set up, every 60K miles - or something reasonable, that the MPG and performance should NOT be affected...

My old, ex-method was to leave the filter in until the vehicle stopped running - usually 50,000 miles... these were the little easy to change filters from the good old days.. $1.95 , 5 minutes labor...
So, at 40,000 miles, the performance could be affected..hope this is correct:cheesy:

Is there a diagram available that spells out how to replace the fuel filter?
 

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A diagram,Jmyers ?

Maybe one is available via the search..I could not find anything but a verbal discourse on this.....Its a very simple job..
I'd pull the fuel pump relay fuse and run the engine till the pressure is lost..
But when changing a VW Diesel fuel filter I did not bother with this step ;as the Diesel one had to be changed with greater frequency..
The Saab filter is good for at least 60K miles...
The filter is located by the passenger rear door area underneath..
It is a two wrench task, probably easier on a lift..
About $10-15 at E Euro Parts for this Bosch unit - a primary supplier for Euro cars..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
rotate said:
I agree with everyone. Fuel filter is rarely the problem for engine problems.

Check the air filter, spark plugs, and vacuum hoses for leaks.
I know the filter is good.
I just replaced the sparks.. may be its not of the right kind. I had it done at a
'Saab Specialist' place, so i has got to right... right ?
I will ask him.
Also, i want to check the Vac lines. Now the dumb questions....any pointers on how i can do that? I dont know where these are ;oops:
Appreciate your time.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Vac lines.. tough to find them ?

I am looking for the Vac lines in my 2.5 v6, to check for leaks... any clues ?
Also... the car's manual asks me to use 91 octane, but i have been using 87, V6'ers.. did you guys notice any difference. I understand the system adjusts itself to the fuel type.
I just put some Techron in my tank last night.. am going to let it run and see if make any difference in my MPG.

Thanks :)
 

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Thank you, Rotate , great pics - how do you guys do it ?????

I suspect we have a number of professional photographers here as well as pro writers - but I still miss PMI...
Maybe he bought a Porsche...
 

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Excellent photos!
Replacing fuel filter was an hour job even for me (a year or so as a weekend mechanic with limited tools).
When I replaced fuel filter at 140,000mi , I didn’t see noticeable MPG number improvement but I feel car drives slightly better as if it has more kicks at the starts and during the sudden acceleration, of course not as much as Turbo-kinda kicks.

I logged MPG for a year period on my calculator -trip mileage divided by gallons each time at the gas station(Each fill up trip mileage/total gallons). I usually drive 420 miles with a full tank ( I drive way after I see empty tank light.)

420 miles / 16 gallons = 26.25mpg (90% highway drive in summer)
 

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How many noticed Rotate's customized jack ?

Quite clever - interesting welding. And it is a big improvement..

There is a little diagram showing the vacuum hoses. These can be tested using your Mitey-Vac vacuum pump and gauge..
When in a hurry, I'll just suck on the hose and hold its end... I'm a human vacuum pump plus a junk yard seagull.. Kept clean, well secured, and cool, the hoses can last a very long time....
 

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queryanalyzer said:
I have the v6... it is the same ?
No don't refer to that photo, that's not our engine. That is for the 4 cyl engine, not the V6.

The biggest factor that will affect your MPG or for me, L/100km is your two upstream oxygen sensors, the air filter and good plugs. Nothing else will affect it on the V6 unless you have a CEL indicating otherwise.

Replace Bank 1 Sensor 1 and Bank 2 Sensor 1 Oxygen sensors, these are used to meter the fuel trim by the ECM. Have a good clean air filter. If the plugs haven't been done in a while, change them, but you'll have to remove the Intake manifold to gain access to Bank 1 plugs.

Oxygen sensors can go bad without throwing a CEL, they periodically need to be replaced for optimum fuel economy. Caution, the V6 sensors are very expensive, at least the OEM style ones. The 2 important ones are the ones closest to the engine, the other 2 (downstream) are only used to measure CAT converter efficency.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ngk - Bkr6ek ??

Diosnoche said:
Replace Bank 1 Sensor 1 and Bank 2 Sensor 1 Oxygen sensors, these are used to meter the fuel trim by the ECM. Have a good clean air filter. If the plugs haven't been done in a while, change them, but you'll have to remove the Intake manifold to gain access to Bank 1 plugs.
I recently replace the sparks... may be thats causing it.
I looked up eEuroparts and the have listed
Bosch - FR8LDC
NGK - BKR6EK
for the 2.5v6.
It looks like NGK is pre gapped to .032 inch. Is that right ?
I am going to check the front bank, make sure its of the right type.

Thanks.
 

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queryanalyzer said:
I recently replace the sparks... may be thats causing it.
I looked up eEuroparts and the have listed
Bosch - FR8LDC
NGK - BKR6EK
for the 2.5v6.
It looks like NGK is pre gapped to .032 inch. Is that right ?
I am going to check the front bank, make sure its of the right type.

Thanks.
These are the factory plugs, I use these ones. The plugs are of a dual spark, dual tip design, the gap is pre gapped.

Why do most people reference eEuroparts ? Not all their information is accurate. Use the Bosch GmbH website.
 
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