SaabCentral Forums banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Don't really know if this is the right thread to post this in, sorry if it isn't.

Looking to buy my first car and saw a 2000 9-3 TS (2.0L turbo manual) with just under 200,000 Km for $3000 AUD. Looks like a bit of deal and looks like its in pretty good shape and its only had 1 owner. But I'm a bit wary of buying a SAAB though because of their reputation for being unreliable and a bit sh*t. However, after reading up a bit on the mk1 9-3 it seems for the most part that its a pretty reliable car. I am prepared to fix and replace some things and I have a bit of know-how from working with my brother on his e46 and my dad has some basic know-how as well.

Long story short, looking for some advice if the 9-3 is a good buy or not and if they really are as reliable as they say.

Ad Link: https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/saab-9-3-2000/sse-ad-3841766/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Hi well I can safely say that they are brilliant cars... suspension might need new bushings steering rack might also need brace...
Sooner or later you will need new dic cassette and cps sensor..
I have a 2000 model 93 as a daily driver I it's goes like hell..
I raise alot of eyeybrows daily..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,478 Posts
I don't know the timing of engine changes down under, but if it's a T7 with the black ignition cassette and oil filler offset to the driver's side of the engine, it can have sludge issues unless the PCV system is upgraded. A T5 engine will have red DIC and filler centred on the engine and does not have sludge issues.

You want to check what maintenance has been done on the car. By this age and distance, the suspension needs to be looked at, and the fuel pump may be tired. The rear brakes can stop working properly too. However, if corrosion is not a problem in your area, the rest of the car should be quite solid.

You also need to check how well the car starts and runs, whether the climate control works properly, the shifting, etc. It's impossible to tell from your description whether it's a good car or not.

If it's a good example of a 200,000 km 9-3, then it will last you for many tens of thousands of kms more. I don't know about pricing, you may be able to bargain the seller down some.

If it's a bad example of a 200,000 km 9-3, you don't want it at any price.

And therin lies the rub. :rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
973 Posts
You're likely to get biased views on a Saab forum, but I would say do the same due diligence you'd do on any car that age. There needs to be evidence of being looked after, seller needs to give a good vibe etc.

Another thing they suffered from is cracked bulkhead, which can't be seen without some dismantling, but if you yank the steering wheel around, the pedals will move, as the steering rack is on the bulkhead. However, there was a little movement of the pedal set even with an unbroken bulkhead.

The sludge issue - need evidence its been dealt with, or be prepared to drop the sump to inspect, and retrofit the later pipes.

I drove a 2002 9-3 diesel until someone collapsed it at 156,000 miles and I loved it. No corrosion to speak of, and I'm in England.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
445 Posts
Welcome.

There are some good people on this forum with a lot of knowledge - so feel free to ask away.
This link will get you some common tips to look for in the Buying Guide.

If its the 'Blue' one from QLD on Car Sales - I would be looking at the following, but as I own a 2000 OG9-3 I can comment with what I've had to look at etc.
** has it been flood-affected** is the important question if its a Queensland based car.

If its a 1 owner car - then the history file should be comprehensive. I recommend getting the RACQ / NMRA etc to do an inspection - otherwise, get a Saab mechanic to look at it. With the vehicle inspection > what you are looking for is compression testing, because you don't want to buy a car that needs a head gasket etc.

1. Aircon & Cooling system - including the condition of hoses. The plastic on the Radiators gets brittle with age, so when you replace a hose .. you might need to replace the Radiator.
2. Water Pump, and Serpentine Belts / Idle Pulley.
3. Check the condition of the SID and the ACC screens.
4. Vaccum lines, Brakes and Brake Booster.
5. Check for water damage/ rust in the boot, and near the spare tyre.
6. Engine mounts.
7. At approx 200k - The shocks - should have been changed, however, other suspension items like tie rods, control arms and bushes may not have been attended to. Strut mounts also..

It looks like it has the Viking Rims on it - so tyres should be something like 205/50/16.

Parts in Aust can be harder to get because some US companies don't like shipping to Aust. I get some of my parts from the UK, Otherwise, there are wreckers and a few part suppliers based mainly in Melbourne. Otherwise, Sparesbox will do the normal stuff.

Oil changes is the other item you need to look at. "Sludge" is an issue that kills these cars. Regular changes and preventative installs like the PCV Kit and 'dropping the pan' are a must.

Remember - You can walk away.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Yeah it is the blue one from car sales, the description says that it has a full service and log history. How much would an inspection cost because my budget is at the moment is $5k and that's for car+maintanince for the foreseeable future. Also, another thing is that the car is unregistered.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
445 Posts
ok. Observations - 1. I noticed that car has been for sale for quite a while - whilst that may not indicate anything bad, but it could also point to something due.
2. If the car is unregistered - do you get a valid safety certificate? The issue here is that if you try to register it, and it's been unregistered for a while - the transport dept might force you to take it over the 'pits' to get registered. Anything they find - you will need to action (fix).
3. Inspection costs - Looking at the RACQ website - costs are about $200 to $300. Some also include the safety certificate.
4. Running costs - If you can do the oil, trans fluids and coolant yourself you'll save a bit. Regular changes for these cars are important. The average service if you are getting a Saab shop to do it will be approx $300 - 400.
If you are allowing about 2K for repairs in the future that is a good call, especially if you can do some yourself.
** eg mine cost me about 3k and it had 150k - but within a year I had spent about 3k on tyres, water pump and radiator etc. The following year I spent about the same on a suspension refresh - But I was using premium parts etc.
5. The outside looks good, and the interior also. If you cant test drive it because it is unregistered - that's the unknown.

You need to be aware that you are buying a 20+-year-old car that due to age & wear will have issues to fix in the future, and parts & costs in Aust are also a factor to consider.. Having said that - Driving one that is in good shape is very fun.

Happy to help further if you want.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
ok. Observations - 1. I noticed that car has been for sale for quite a while - whilst that may not indicate anything bad, but it could also point to something due.
2. If the car is unregistered - do you get a valid safety certificate? The issue here is that if you try to register it, and it's been unregistered for a while - the transport dept might force you to take it over the 'pits' to get registered. Anything they find - you will need to action (fix).
3. Inspection costs - Looking at the RACQ website - costs are about $200 to $300. Some also include the safety certificate.
4. Running costs - If you can do the oil, trans fluids and coolant yourself you'll save a bit. Regular changes for these cars are important. The average service if you are getting a Saab shop to do it will be approx $300 - 400.
If you are allowing about 2K for repairs in the future that is a good call, especially if you can do some yourself.
** eg mine cost me about 3k and it had 150k - but within a year I had spent about 3k on tyres, water pump and radiator etc. The following year I spent about the same on a suspension refresh - But I was using premium parts etc.
5. The outside looks good, and the interior also. If you cant test drive it because it is unregistered - that's the unknown.

You need to be aware that you are buying a 20+-year-old car that due to age & wear will have issues to fix in the future, and parts & costs in Aust are also a factor to consider.. Having said that - Driving one that is in good shape is very fun.

Happy to help further if you want.
I might give this one a pass because it's unregistered but might still take a look at it but might be a while before I take look because I still have to convince my dad because he hates Saabs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
653 Posts
At 200000km, that's 124k miles it would be due for a host of items, fuel pump, cps, DIC, fan resistor, ABS module, all hoses, a regular shopping list of things, albeit once those are done your usually good for another 100k miles or so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
I can't tell you what to do..
But I would buy it.
Just test drive check for smoke @ startup. Take it to a mechanic just to give it the ok..
For some piece of mind..
My car is also 20 years old and it's just as good as these new pieces of **** driving around.
My opinion
 

·
Registered
2000 Saab 9-3 2.0 T
Joined
·
1 Posts
I bought a 2000 9-3 turbo last summer at 113,000m. Fuel pump went out in August, I replaced it. This past Monday I was driving home, the car stalled, started again rolling down the highway, pop, died, oil all over passenger's firewall. Pressure tested C1 = 60 psi
C2 = 120
C3 = 120
C4 = 90 psi
Not sure what to do. Only at 122000mi now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
I have one pretty much like this bluey, same k's etc. Mine is brilliant, almost faultless. BUT I do live in fear of what might go wrong! Mine cost me $1500, it was registered, I spent about $900 to get it to RWC.
It's a lovely looking car eh? I would want a RWC with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,814 Posts
If it's been for sale a while, might be something wrong. But, that also means they price should come down... either that or the seller price high and is willing to keep sitting on it.

Any 20 yo car is going to need work. Like the others said, check all the usual stuff. Smooth running, no pulling, engine quiet and pulls strong, idles well, etc. Look for vibration when driving, particularly under acceleration. Problems indicate repairs needed, smaller or larger.

At 20 years, all of these need some front end parts replacement, suspension refreshed, misc bits replaced, tune up, etc. I advise folks to have $1000 usd available after purchase to pay for all the parts - and assume you'll do the labor.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top