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Discussion Starter #81
wear like that on the outside of the belt can come from a worn motor mount as well.
I do have a worn motor mount or multiple, I have no idea why and I can't seem to identify it. At low RPM in 1st gear, the whole front of the car will fibrate, while shifting into 2nd gear and accelerating will result in a "thump" of the engine.
 

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I do have a worn motor mount or multiple, I have no idea why and I can't seem to identify it. At low RPM in 1st gear, the whole front of the car will fibrate, while shifting into 2nd gear and accelerating will result in a "thump" of the engine.
That could also be subframe bushings, my 03 Aero did that (automatic though) while at lights, right under the passenger's feet. Subframe bushings cured that problem (a huge job)
 

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My country does not have the climate of California, temperatures go down as much as -22°F.
low temperatures don't really matter that much, well sort of.

Even in California 0W oil is still too thick based on the specs for the engine. I can't remember the numbers but 40W oil is way thinner at temperature than 0W oil when "cold" Of course at -22 it's a lot thicker. (Synthetics are better in this situation)

FIWW red-aero-wagon, 50W is too thick for the Saab at temp and it has nothing to do with weather since temp is ~200F or so. you really should use the thinner oil.

I use 0W40 in my Saab engines, the lightest I can get on the cold side and conforming to the specs from the designers on the hot side.
 

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Discussion Starter #84 (Edited)
That could also be subframe bushings
Why are you saying that it's a huge job to replace some bushings?
In regards with the oil, the shop put GM 5W30 oil in the engine, while the manual of my Saab said either 0W40 or 5W40, I am now trying to do the oil change and put Mobil 1 5W40 oil in the engine to see if that might make a difference.
 

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The subframe bushings are a real pain to do. you have to take the whole subframe off of the car to push the bushings into place. (or go with the poly bushings, there is a shortcut there)

The subframe holds (among other things) the radiator/AC condenser/intercooler, rear engine mount, steering rack, struts, spindles, axles and a bunch of other things. Essentially the entire front suspension has to be taken off.

$50 worth of parts, 10 hours to do the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
The subframe bushings are a real pain to do. you have to take the whole subframe off of the car to push the bushings into place. (or go with the poly bushings, there is a shortcut there)
Can't this be done with the subframe still attached to the car and just remove one bushing, replace and move to the next? Bottom line is, would this job we a thing to do in your driveway?
 

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No, the bushings have to be pressed in from the top and there just isn't enough room

That is if you are using the "saab" bushings that are rubber with metal sleeves. @Josdek is in the middle of this job right now, he can tell you how it work.

If you use the power flex bushings that don't have metal sleeves you can use a sawsall to cut out the old bushings and then lube the hell out of the poly bushings and push them through using the weight of the car. I've not done this but am tempted when I have to do the job again since taking the subframe out is a pain. The poly bushings reportedly have a stiffer ride though.

if you're interested in reading up, look here for a good tutorial


you can pull the bolts out of each of the 6 bushings one at a time to inspect them. When I did mine the two rear bushings were completely shot and one of the center ones was bad. The front ones seem to be the ones that don't wear all that much but if you've got the subframe off do them all since the bushings themselves are cheap and the task is large.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
No, the bushings have to be pressed in from the top and there just isn't enough room
This is another worrying aspect as if I need to get a shop to do the bushing, I can expect the worst from the, regarding the price and everything. :/
 

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This is another worrying aspect as if I need to get a shop to do the bushing, I can expect the worst from the, regarding the price and everything. :/
you can do them yourself, the job is not all that hard. It's just time consuming because of all of the stuff that you need to take off and getting the bushings out and back in.

eeuroparts has a video on how to put the poly bushings in without taking the subframe off. I'm likely to try this when I do mine on my 01 wagon. sure would help to have a lift though!
 

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Discussion Starter #90
We shall see after I check the belt and all the accessories, meanwhile I filled her up with 99 octane gas. Perhaps that will help the fuel system and the engine somehow.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Well, coming back after almost 11 days, the engine seems to be smoother with the higher octane fuel. One issue I had was that the plastic cover that is over the serpentine belt, the one that is attached to the inner plastic fender. It seems to be broken in pieces as I only have a small portion of it present, it barely covers the crank pulley and is being attached to the car by one screw. I can hear it rubbing from something when I break. Is it ok if I just remove it and have the crank pulley exposed to the right front wheel?
 

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for short time it might be ok, but the cover protects the belt from dirt from the street / rainy street.
Try to find another one. They are often cracked, it might be difficult to find a 100% one but a small crack is not that critical.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
for short time it might be ok, but the cover protects the belt from dirt from the street / rainy street.
What is the more important protection for the belt, having a cover on the underside of the engine or on the side with the wheel? I'm asking as my cover is completely obliterated, I only have a small part of the side cover. If I can't find one, would it be ok for me to reattach my broken side cover and zip tie it to the inner fender liner?

Side question, are Dayco belts and pulleys any good? What about Ridex?
 

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Dayco belts and pulleys will be fine. I believe that Dayco made the original tensioner and pulley.

There are basically two covers, one for the underside behind the bumper from one side to another, and then an angled piece that goes under the engine as well as over the bottom pulley. The fender has a liner, too, but that's not engine protection in my scheme of understanding.

The piece that shields the bottom pulley is 49 54 954. The general behind-bumper shield is 54 04 462 or 5496419. Numbers are for a 2003.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Dayco belts and pulleys will be fine. I believe that Dayco made the original tensioner and pulley.
I see now that I only have half of the original plastic cover, I will try to source a used one locally. By the way, I also have some non-starting issue, where it cranks but doesn't start. At first, you'd think it's the Fuel pump that is gone, but I will eventually get it started. I've read that it can be dirt inside the Connector called H42-5. It's the one attached to the firewall, next to the VIN number location. Even with the WIS, I struggle to find a clear pin-out list to see which pin and wire is for the fuel delivery or fuel pump. Do you think you might know ?
Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Well, good folks of Saab Central, I am back with news and information to help others!
First of all, my non starting issues, the "cranks but doesn't start, but eventually starts" situation was narrowed down to the Crank Position Sensor. I bought a cheaper sensor, manufactured by Starline, yet it looks identical with the original OEM unit made by Bosch, so fingers crossed. The job was a pain, as I lacked the proper tools for it, but I used some penetrating spray to budge the screw loose and take the old sensor out. So far, the car has been starting faster than ever, and is working right.

My second problem came with a stuck oil drain plug, that I rounded off. I bought a set of screw/bold extractor sockets and used one of those to grip the rounded drain plug. The "specialist Saab" shop tightened the drain plug so hard, that I had to use a hydraulic jack to push the wrench that was loosening the extractor/drain plug on the pan. It was so TIGHT that the whole car was beginning to lift until the drain plug gave and it came loose. I was unable to remove the "old" oil filter, but it's only done 1000 miles so I can keep it on the engine until the next oil change.
After the oil change with fresh synthetic oil, the Mobil 1 5W40 Super 3000 X1. The low oil light situation disappeared, no joke, on the incline or in that hard and tight right corner, the oil light did not come on. So I have no idea what I fixed, but it is fixed.

Unfortunately, I think that 25nm for the oil drain plug is not enough, as every time I park the car, it is slightly dripping, I might try to tighten it some more, perhaps to 35nm. So far, I am grateful that the car is working good and that the CPS solved my non starting issue. Unfortunately, the engine still ticks badly as always, I have not checked the belt or the accessories yet.
 

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I might be wrong but you really should have spent the extra money for the Bosch CPS. Yours will probably fail in the relatively near future

I feel your pain on the stuck drain plug bolt. Very frustrating. Also, did you install an o-ring or gasket on the drain plug?
 

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Discussion Starter #98
I might be wrong but you really should have spent the extra money for the Bosch CPS. Yours will probably fail in the relatively near future
Everyone from the forums told me to spend more for the Bosch CPS, but it is unreasonably priced, the same or higher than a new fuel pump. And this car gets driven on average 1500-2000 miles per year, so what are the chances to have the new sensor malfunction in that time-frame?

I installed a copper washer with the new drain plug and tightened it to 25nm. It appears to be not good enough, or the leak might be coming from some place else. Going back to the CPS, I have no idea why people get so obsessed with the Bosch units, they are not even made in Germany anymore. We shall see, but the price is not justified.
 

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Everyone from the forums told me to spend more for the Bosch CPS, but it is unreasonably priced, the same or higher than a new fuel pump. And this car gets driven on average 1500-2000 miles per year, so what are the chances to have the new sensor malfunction in that time-frame?

I installed a copper washer with the new drain plug and tightened it to 25nm. It appears to be not good enough, or the leak might be coming from some place else. Going back to the CPS, I have no idea why people get so obsessed with the Bosch units, they are not even made in Germany anymore. We shall see, but the price is not justified.
Where are you seeing these prices? AFAIK, a Bosch CPS is something like $65 and a fuel pump is around $200
 

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Everyone from the forums told me to spend more for the Bosch CPS, but it is unreasonably priced, the same or higher than a new fuel pump. And this car gets driven on average 1500-2000 miles per year, so what are the chances to have the new sensor malfunction in that time-frame?

I installed a copper washer with the new drain plug and tightened it to 25nm. It appears to be not good enough, or the leak might be coming from some place else. Going back to the CPS, I have no idea why people get so obsessed with the Bosch units, they are not even made in Germany anymore. We shall see, but the price is not justified.
The Bosch CPS is $69 on eEuroparts. I am not sure which one you found but that doesn't seem so terrible to me. https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/59103/Crankshaft-Position-Sensor-0261210269/
 
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